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Mine lasted untill I pulled the engine to make sure it was cavitation and not a head gasket or cracked head. Oh and good call on AAA RV as regular AAA couldn't tow mine when I had to move and was still looking for the 6.9 that now sits in the engine bay. Unfortunatly now its siting in cali waiting for a trans rebuild while I'm in Camp johnson. Guess I built the engine a little too strong.
From experience with a cracked block, running it may increase the repair costs.
One of my failed reman engines built 30 PSI in the cooling system in 15 seconds running.
That resulted in a new radiator and heater core also being required when I put it back together.
And the heater core had swelled up to where it was a real pain to get out of the heater box.
If you cavitation hole is low in the cylinder wall, you might not put as much pressure in the cooling system as I did with a crack near the head, but it is something to consider.
well, im not building any more pressure in the cooling system as i normally would. its burning coolant like crazy. 2 gallons in 90 miles. 4 gallons in 165. not getting any water in my oil (not milky yet) but im getting a ton of coolant vapor flowing out of my pcv valve. crazy huh? ive got 320 miles since the leak. going 130 tomorrow to get home. let the games begin lol
Your cavitation hole must be low in the cylinder, which would put less pressure in the cooling system.
But that also means pressure in ther cooling system as the engine warms up is spraying coolant straight into the crank case when the piston is above the cavitation hole.
With a 195 degree thermostat, you are cooking the coolant, or most of it out of the oil once the engine is at operating temp.
well, i am going to keep the heads, crank, cam, connecting rods, basically every single thing except the block itself. then im sure i'll scrap it. its not worth the machine work for me. if someone is interested in it, it can be had for cheap
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