When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I had to pull the top hose off the radiator so I could change out the new alt... that works so far...
but now, after I reinstalled the top hose, I'm getting a leak there
I thought maybe it was cause the hose is older, and not as plyable at that same spot where I put the clamp, so I moved the clamp down a little bit, seemed to help, but still leaks now...
so, I'm going to get a new top hose... if I tightened it too much, and it cracked, would I notice it as a much larger leak, than just a minor dripping?
if I did crack it, is there anyway to repair it without replacement? JB weld? or am I screwed?
I see that there are all alum tanks made as a replacement - is that a good idea? also, how hard are they to pull? what all do I need to take off?
If you cracked the radiator inlet pipe, you would see a constant leak whenever the engine warmed up and coolant was circulating. I had the same issue after removing/reinstalling my radiator last year. Worked fine before, no leaks but I could not get the same hose/hose clamp to seal. I wound replacing the hose and still had a very slight, intermittent leak. I put a second clamp on and problem solved. Mystery to me as to why this would happen.
Did you notice if the plastic housing is a little bit loose? I mean to ask, when I pulled off the hose, I noticed that there was some give there, like at where the nipple meets the radiator...
I think I'll do that - get a new hose with a couple of clamps, and see if that works, and then get some JB Weld that they have for water, etc, and try that too... didn't know if a bead of RTV would be ok to use there to help seal, but I guess a new hose would fit pretty tight anyways....
BTW - how hard are they to pull if I end up doing that? will they clear the hood ok?
Did you notice if the plastic housing is a little bit loose? I mean to ask, when I pulled off the hose, I noticed that there was some give there, like at where the nipple meets the radiator...
I think I'll do that - get a new hose with a couple of clamps, and see if that works, and then get some JB Weld that they have for water, etc, and try that too... didn't know if a bead of RTV would be ok to use there to help seal, but I guess a new hose would fit pretty tight anyways....
BTW - how hard are they to pull if I end up doing that? will they clear the hood ok?
I did not have any play where the inlet pipe meets the radiator body. If you do, that is most likely the source of your leak. How hard to pull.....? If you mean the radiator itself, its fairly simple and yes, it will clear the hood. The biggest problem is removing the fan and fan clutch. The fan shroud, fan & fan clutch all come out as one "unit", then the radiator. The 3.0 engine may be different, but on the 4.0 (at least mine) the A/C lines cross the shroud and I find it easier to move the A/C compressor to one side to allow easier shroud removal. Some others with newer 4.0 imply their A/C lines are long enough to just pull them aside without removing the compressor.
You should find a local radiator shop and have them leak test your radiator. Cost is minimal and if there is a leak at the neck, JB Weld should do the trick. I would avoid silicone. It may work initially but heating/cooling expansions will eventually cause a failure.