Late '99 started running rough......
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Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,374
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From: Palm Bay, Florida
Late '99 started running rough......
My Late '99 started running rough soon after I left work today-(about a mile) then service engine light came on, pulled over and checked things out, found oil was just a hair under the add line on the dipstick-remembering reading many threads about NOT running a 7.3 low on oil, I added oil until it was just a hair above the full line, started again let idle for about 5 minutes, still running rough but doesn't seem as bad, I drove it home at 40-45 mph and took it easy, (less than 10 miles) seemed a bit smoother until it went into overdrive then it was very noticeable rough running, I have heard about oil getting low in the HPOP, and thought it would refill itself may be and be ok, do I need to phsycally add oil to the HPOP?? do I need to bleed anything?? Thanks!
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,411
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From: Opelika, AL
My Late '99 started running rough soon after I left work today-(about a mile) then service engine light came on, pulled over and checked things out, found oil was just a hair under the add line on the dipstick-remembering reading many threads about NOT running a 7.3 low on oil, I added oil until it was just a hair above the full line, started again let idle for about 5 minutes, still running rough but doesn't seem as bad, I drove it home at 40-45 mph and took it easy, (less than 10 miles) seemed a bit smoother until it went into overdrive then it was very noticeable rough running, I have heard about oil getting low in the HPOP, and thought it would refill itself may be and be ok, do I need to phsycally add oil to the HPOP?? do I need to bleed anything?? Thanks!
might not help your situation but to add oil to HPOP there is a plug on the top right of the HPOP....Allen Head IIRC. remove it and it wont be full but will be close to the top. make sure you put the plug back in before trying to crank.
if it was low and you added there may be some air in the system but driving for a day or so should slowly work the air out. also if it was low i believe it means there is a leak and it will be low again shortly.
others will be along shortly with more help.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,374
Likes: 46
From: Palm Bay, Florida
Thanks for you reply!! I really don't think I have a leak as there is no evedence of oil on the ground, my engine is actually quite clean & dry, last time I check the oil it was in the middle between the full and add lines-(truck was on uneven ground)
So, it "sounds" like I can drive it until the air works itself out of the system?? my oil pressure is good and temp is good, my engine is all stock except HPX line & coolant filter.
TIA for any additional suggestions!
So, it "sounds" like I can drive it until the air works itself out of the system?? my oil pressure is good and temp is good, my engine is all stock except HPX line & coolant filter.
TIA for any additional suggestions!
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 13,144
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From: Rochdale MA
If the SES light came on there is code stored. Do you have a way to pull the codes? I am thinking that a UVCH has some loose or the wires to it are chaffing, this is just throwing a couple of ifs at you. Need to get the codes though....
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,292
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From: Ardenvoir, Washington
I agree with Jim... sounds like the classic loose under the valve cover/s connector has come loose.. There will be P1316 code stored.. If so, you can fix it by the "50 cent fix".. (2 quarters used as shims to keep the connector locking tabs tight..) Mine came loose, both of them at 70K miles..
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Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,374
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From: Palm Bay, Florida
I've got no one (I don't think) here locally from the FTE family who can pull the codes for me.
I was condidering taking it to the International dealer here in town (about 8 miles from home) I just don't know if THEY have whats needed to pull my codes....anyone have experiance with International dealers?
I have read some of the posts concerning the UVCH connector coming loose but don't completely understand what all is involved in fixing it using the 50 cent method-I understand that we use 2 quarters to help the connector stay together.....do I have to remove the valve cover(s) to get to the connector?? I'll do a search and see. Thanks Again!!
I was condidering taking it to the International dealer here in town (about 8 miles from home) I just don't know if THEY have whats needed to pull my codes....anyone have experiance with International dealers?
I have read some of the posts concerning the UVCH connector coming loose but don't completely understand what all is involved in fixing it using the 50 cent method-I understand that we use 2 quarters to help the connector stay together.....do I have to remove the valve cover(s) to get to the connector?? I'll do a search and see. Thanks Again!!
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,292
Likes: 6
From: Ardenvoir, Washington
Yes, remove the covers, the gaskets are reuseable. This will expose the 9 pin plastic piece of junk connector that has plastic locking tabs that hold the two halves together.. With heat and oil, these tabs warp and allow the connector to separate.. All you need to do is push the connector together and take a quarter and grind off one edge flat about 20% or so, and slip the quarter behind the existing locking tab.. This will double lock the tab.. There a pic in my gallery of a loose connector.. someone can give you a pic of the modified quarter.. You can also ohm check the outside of the connector without pulling the cover to verify that this is the problem.. I have the ohm readings if you need them..
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,292
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From: Ardenvoir, Washington
Look at Post #14 of https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6639153 and you will see pic of the modified quarter..
As far as going International.. I don't think those guys like us... You have to tell them you buying parts for international T444E or they give you a bad time.. (international not making diesels engines for Ford anymore for the F series trucks)
As far as going International.. I don't think those guys like us... You have to tell them you buying parts for international T444E or they give you a bad time.. (international not making diesels engines for Ford anymore for the F series trucks)
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Post Fiend
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From: Texas
I don't think it's an oil issue. Like the others have said, there's a good chance it's a UVCH issue. UVCH is the Under Valve Cover Harness, so yes, it's the plug inside the valve cover that comes loose. The International dealer should be able to scan it for you if they are willing to.
You can check for a UVCH issue yourself unless it's intermittent, in which case you'll have to check when it's acting up. You might get lucky and be able to forcefully wiggle the connector on the outside of the valve cover (near the center on the inboard side of each valve cover) to see if wiggling the connector changes the way the truck runs.
You can also use an ohm meter to check the connection. If you unplug the connector you'll see 9 flat pins inside the valve cover gasket. Ohm the front two pins and the rear two pins against a battery ground. A reading of less than 2 ohms means good. Then ohm the 3rd, 4th, 6th, & 7th, pin against the center 5th pin looking for a reading less than 5 ohms. If you find readings out of spec, pull that valve cover and take a look.
You can check for a UVCH issue yourself unless it's intermittent, in which case you'll have to check when it's acting up. You might get lucky and be able to forcefully wiggle the connector on the outside of the valve cover (near the center on the inboard side of each valve cover) to see if wiggling the connector changes the way the truck runs.
You can also use an ohm meter to check the connection. If you unplug the connector you'll see 9 flat pins inside the valve cover gasket. Ohm the front two pins and the rear two pins against a battery ground. A reading of less than 2 ohms means good. Then ohm the 3rd, 4th, 6th, & 7th, pin against the center 5th pin looking for a reading less than 5 ohms. If you find readings out of spec, pull that valve cover and take a look.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Palm Bay, Florida
I spoke with the service department at Maudlin International today and they said they could only pull codes on about 80% of the Ford trucks they have tried to in the past-said they wouldn't charge me if they couldn't but would charge $86.00 if they could.
I then contacted a small private shop that I trust 110% and they said they had the scan tools from Ford that they could pull the codes with so thats where its going next Tuesday.
Any chance it may quit running all together on an 8 mile run up there?? if so I'll have it towed on a roll-back.
I then contacted a small private shop that I trust 110% and they said they had the scan tools from Ford that they could pull the codes with so thats where its going next Tuesday.
Any chance it may quit running all together on an 8 mile run up there?? if so I'll have it towed on a roll-back.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,292
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From: Ardenvoir, Washington
AE tools are good, but i still like my Diablo Sport Predator Programmer U7170 It will read all the codes our 7.3L..