Multi-level experimental build
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: The Big, Oregon
Multi-level experimental build
Well, my 300-6 build is underway. I sent the cam off to Delta for a mid-range 262 grind, I'm cutting the intake to take a 2BBL tomorrow, and now I got a call from the machine shop saying .060 over won't clean up the bores. So, I'm going to have them take it to 4.080 and I'll use .030 oversize pistons for a 360. My original plan was to take it to 4.050 and use standard 360 pistons.
Has anyone else taken a 300-6 that far? I've had them at .060 over with a performance build, and didn't have any issues. I seem to recall hearing about one at .120 over, but can't find that info now.
Has anyone else taken a 300-6 that far? I've had them at .060 over with a performance build, and didn't have any issues. I seem to recall hearing about one at .120 over, but can't find that info now.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 708
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Can't your machine shop find you a better block to use? (that the government hasn't filled with cement anyway 
)
I personally would not want my block bored out that much. But that's just me. You're alternatives are to have a sonic check done to see if eighty thou is passable or to have the block sleeved. But it shouldn't be hard for your shop to locate a 300 block that will clean up with fifty thou for not much money (I would think).
Either way, I would say eighty thou is too much to just guess and gamble, you should sonic check a few cylinders first
)I personally would not want my block bored out that much. But that's just me. You're alternatives are to have a sonic check done to see if eighty thou is passable or to have the block sleeved. But it shouldn't be hard for your shop to locate a 300 block that will clean up with fifty thou for not much money (I would think).
Either way, I would say eighty thou is too much to just guess and gamble, you should sonic check a few cylinders first
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,195
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From: Near Los Angeles
I have spoken with someone on the other forum who was a Ford engineer, and who now races the 300. He uses the 352 piston because the .050 over bore weakens the block too much for serious racers.
...for what it is worth...
K.
...for what it is worth...
K.
Elder User
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,477
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From: Sheffield, AL
X2 re: the Frenchtown Flyer. His posts are full of knowledge... too bad he doesn't visit our forum.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Almost Heaven
Jared, what gear ratio are you going with?
I wish more people would build hot-rod 300's. I'd really love to see before and after dyno's.
I wish more people would build hot-rod 300's. I'd really love to see before and after dyno's.
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Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: The Big, Oregon
The van has a C6 with a 2.75 rear end, I'm probably going to leave that alone at least for the time being. I may swap it out to a 3.25 later on, but I'm trying for a really wide power band on this engine as well.
As far as wall thickness, my last 300-6 build had small dish pistons, fully bowl ported 240 head, Offenhauser intake and a polished out 2150 2BBL. It was also bored .060 over, abused constantly, and never had any overheating problems.
As far as wall thickness, my last 300-6 build had small dish pistons, fully bowl ported 240 head, Offenhauser intake and a polished out 2150 2BBL. It was also bored .060 over, abused constantly, and never had any overheating problems.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 898
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From: southeren Oh
I wouldn't trust one thats bored .060 let alone .080
just how thick are the walls going to be after its cut that far??
Is is just cyl#1? that needs to go this far?? I'd sleeve it if that is the case.
just how thick are the walls going to be after its cut that far??
Is is just cyl#1? that needs to go this far?? I'd sleeve it if that is the case.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,195
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From: Near Los Angeles
I don't understand the problem. You can pull a block with oem bores for about $100. Even if you have machine work already done on the block, would you want to risk all the assembly and installation just to have to do it over again because of a weak block?
Please believe me, take the precaution and replace it. I have been there. Some day when you're on a long trip in the middle of nowhere, you'll be glad for the confidence you have in the engine.
I recently built two engines because I didn't have the first block magnafluxed.
Good luck.
Please believe me, take the precaution and replace it. I have been there. Some day when you're on a long trip in the middle of nowhere, you'll be glad for the confidence you have in the engine.
I recently built two engines because I didn't have the first block magnafluxed.
Good luck.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,195
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From: Near Los Angeles
At a junkyard. I don't know what the prices are all over the country, but pull it yourself and strip it down there, and I'd guess about $100. I paid $175 for a short block.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: The Big, Oregon
Well, I paid $150 for this one as a complete engine, and I had to talk the guy down to that. Opened it up and found it had already gone .030 over, I thought it was ok since my initial plans were .050 over and 360 STD pistons, but the machine shop called and said that wouldn't clean it up. Even .060 wouldn't clean it up, so I just had them take it to .080 over for .030 over 360 pistons. If it's wrong, I'll be out the cost, if it works, we'll know these engines can take a bit more than thought. Either way, you can't decide if it works democratically, someone just needs to go ahead and try.
Either way, the van won't be in worse shape than it is now.
Either way, the van won't be in worse shape than it is now.