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Old May 24, 2010 | 11:28 PM
  #1  
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Help finding specialty tool

I need help finding a specialty tool.
I have the Auto locking 4x4 hubs. After you pull all that out and the keeper, you run into the spindle nut or hub nut or whatever you call it.
Well it is twelve-sided, I think somewhere in the range of 2-3/8" to 2-1/2" but not sure.
Before when I tore this down I had a helluva time with it. I know it didn't get torqued down even close to correct.
Now The driver's side wheel bearings are starting to get some play in them. There also appears to be water in the hub.

I want the tool to do it right, but just as last time around I cannot find it!

Oh yeah I just can't use a regular deep-well either because
a) the tool i believe must have very thin walls (I was told this by a guy at a parts store [don't ask me which one, I forgot that long ago])
b) I wouldn't know if a 12 sided deep would even go on this wierd nut.
I took the auto locking hub out

HELP!
 
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Old May 24, 2010 | 11:54 PM
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When I converted my 96 f250 gasser from autos to manuals I swore the nut your talking about was a 6 point and yes you did need a specialty socket 2 1/2" IIRC. They sell them at checkers and some autozones, otherwise whatIve done before is take a screwdtiver or chisel and stick it on one face and use a hammer to tap it around to rotate it, till it was loose enough to do the rest by hand. Then I replaced it with manual hubs which use the 4point round locking nuts. they require another specialty tool too. The first one is a sheetmetal type socket about 1/8" wall with a 1/4x 1" strap welded across the top wih a hole for a 1/2" drive ratchet. the 4point replacement is a standard heavy duty socket with either 4 teeth that sticking out or internally that sleeves the nut.
 
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Old May 24, 2010 | 11:55 PM
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look up spindle nut sockets at your local autoparts stores website and you should see what I mean.
 
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Old May 25, 2010 | 12:00 AM
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most places rent them IIRC.
 
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Old May 25, 2010 | 05:36 AM
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If it looks like your getting water in the hub check the O ring area on the hub. Might be time for a new set of manuals
 
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Old May 25, 2010 | 02:20 PM
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I will stick with the auto's. I love them.
I think the water must have been coming in through the inner seal. I didn't see any sign off water until I had the locking mechanism out.
I think the nearest autozone is 25 miles away, I give them a call. And we now have an O'reily's in town too.
 
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Old May 27, 2010 | 08:14 AM
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Well my passenger side hub spontaneously went out yesterday.
It fine last week, yesterday it suddenly became loose as a goose, and got HOT!
I called the ford dealer in town for the parts, and apparently they have a hub tool kit to rent for $10. I don't know what the main service guy in town has against me, but last time I did this he told me they didn't have the tool. In addition he said there was no way that one of their mechanics good loan me the tool cuz it was against policy. This is not the first time I've had trouble with this guy. He's screwed me in the past several times as well. I've learned to just talk to the parts guy, Andrew. He knows OBS inside and out.

Hopefully, I didn't destroy the hub lock-out because he said the auto replacement parts are HARD to find.
Time to get started.
 
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Old May 28, 2010 | 03:05 AM
  #8  
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Finished it up about an hour ago. I had to get new bearings a new seal on the pass. side and just the seal on the drivers side. I pieced together my auto locking unit on the pass. side for now, but it aint gonna last too long, I fear. They guy at the parts store about laughed me out the door when I told him that I liked the autos.
The tool from ford worked awesome. I am definately certain that they didn't get tightened down to anywhere near the 210 lb-ft last time and thats what caused this trouble.
I think the only thing holding the pass. side hub on was the brake pads. I took the spindle nut the rest of the way off with one finger.
Thanks for the help everyone, she rides smooth and quiet now.
 
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Old May 28, 2010 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by cowmilker08
Finished it up about an hour ago. I had to get new bearings a new seal on the pass. side and just the seal on the drivers side. I pieced together my auto locking unit on the pass. side for now, but it aint gonna last too long, I fear. They guy at the parts store about laughed me out the door when I told him that I liked the autos.
The tool from ford worked awesome. I am definately certain that they didn't get tightened down to anywhere near the 210 lb-ft last time and thats what caused this trouble.
I think the only thing holding the pass. side hub on was the brake pads. I took the spindle nut the rest of the way off with one finger.
Thanks for the help everyone, she rides smooth and quiet now.
what are you tightening to 210 lb-ft?
 
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Old May 28, 2010 | 10:40 AM
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Yea, I'm with heli on this,

What needs that kinda tigtening?

You use that torque wrench for tractors, not for trucks. haha.
 
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Old May 28, 2010 | 10:41 AM
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With a TTB front, there is a lot of seals in the knuckle and spindle, If they are all not good, then water gets in very easy.
 
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Old May 28, 2010 | 10:43 AM
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From: Ashland City, TN
Originally Posted by cowmilker08
Well my passenger side hub spontaneously went out yesterday.
It fine last week, yesterday it suddenly became loose as a goose, and got HOT!
I called the ford dealer in town for the parts, and apparently they have a hub tool kit to rent for $10. I don't know what the main service guy in town has against me, but last time I did this he told me they didn't have the tool. In addition he said there was no way that one of their mechanics good loan me the tool cuz it was against policy. This is not the first time I've had trouble with this guy. He's screwed me in the past several times as well. I've learned to just talk to the parts guy, Andrew. He knows OBS inside and out.

Hopefully, I didn't destroy the hub lock-out because he said the auto replacement parts are HARD to find.
Time to get started.
Usually you'll have to find somebody with some auto's to swap out.

Contact Neal, he has auto's on his truck, and he's putting manuals on his d60.
 
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Old May 28, 2010 | 01:20 PM
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The main spindle or hub nut was supposed to be tightened down to 200-220 lb-ft. That is what my book says. What do you guys think they are supposed to be tightened down to?
I've had someone offer to sell me some used Auto lockers.
The only seal that was leaking, based on where there was evidence of water, was the outer seal.
 
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Old May 28, 2010 | 03:31 PM
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nuts are 50 ft lbs than back off 1/4 turn.
if you have driven it with 200 ft lbs of torque the bearings are probably destroyed.
there should be 0.040 axial play in the bearings
 
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Old May 28, 2010 | 04:27 PM
  #15  
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heli, do you think the bearings are no good anyway? I wonder how the wheel even turned by hand with that much torque on it.

I know I posted this before...couldn't find it

This is for Auto hubs only the manuals are different
 
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