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first start up in 3 days. it was 85 degrees+ here in those 3 days. i go to start it and once it starts the engine runs all the way up to 3000 RPM and fluctuates from 2500-3000 RPM.
i had this problem before and i did nothing after letting it sit for 4 hours and it fixed its self to normal again.
yes i pulled some codes:
non run engine test:
23, 63, 44
engine run test:
46 and some others...... (same ones i have every time i test the engine... i came to the assumption they mean nothing or cancel eaechother out) this test never ended for like 10 minutes. it never completed so i just shut the engine off. it was done repeating codes and just stayed blank then i shut the engine off because usually it makes a rev when its done
please help. battery is also disconnected right now if that does anything i don't know
Code 23 indicates that the TP (throttle position) sensor sent a signal back the the ECM that was out of range. Code 63 indicates specifically that the voltage the ECM received was too low from the TP sensor. The bottom end of the voltage parameter for the TP sensor is between 0.2 and 0.39 VDC (volts direct current) Any lower and either the sensor is bad or there isn't any voltage getting through it to the ECM. Before you assume the sensor is bad, take a voltage reading on the ORANGE/WHITE wire at the TP sensor connector on the wiring harness with the sensor disconnected but with the KOEO. It should be approximately +5VDC within about 0.25 volts. If this reading is acceptable, take a reading between the ORANGE/WHITE wire and the DARK GREEN/LIGHT GREEN wires on the sensor itself. Open the throttle and watch the meter. The resistance should change as the throttle opens and closes. If not, replace the sensor. If BOTH of theses tests come back acceptable, the problem is in the wiring between the TP sensor and the ECM. (Lets hope not).
Codes 44 and 46 are indicative of a non-functioning Thermactor air injection system. Code 44 indicates no Thermactor air to cylinders 1-4 and Code 46 means no air flow through the Thermactor system at all. Check your smog pump for good output during operation and check the associated air hose plumbing from it to the diverter valve behind the passenger cylinder head. From there the air injection splits off to the cylinder heads and the catalytic converter.
i might as well just replace the damn TPS since i work at carquest now. we did the resistance test in the middle of winter once and the meter showed fair values but it wasn't at 5 volts. its a pretty expensive meter so i bet the damn TPS is bad.
dad put a stethoscope on the smog pump and it was starting to make alot of racket. do they wear out or need any sort of maintenance? who the hell cares about smog anyways
The ECM cares about the smog... the emissions equipment is so well integrated that when the components fail your performance will suffer for it so its just best to keep the equipment working properly. Yes, the pumps can go bad. The internals consist of a series of rubber/vinyl vanes that rotate to push the air through the system. As the pumps age the vanes get brittle and crack leaving little pieces of them to rattle around inside and reducing the effectiveness of the pump. Think of the vanes inside the pump like windshield wipers that have lost their edge or worse lost the entire squeege part of the blade.