Engine Pull and Replacement
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Engine Pull and Replacement
Hello everyone,
I just purchased a 1996 F250 XL from my boss for $500 so I am very excited. Only problem is the engine is blown. I also just purchased a 4.9l 300c.i. I6 engine with 94k miles on ebay for $150. Here is the previous owner’s description of the engine:<O
<O
THIS ENGINE WAS TAKEN FROM A 91 F150 LARIAT THAT HAD A BAD FRAME. THE ENGINE IS VERY CLEAN<O></O>
<O
STRONG RUNNING WITH PLENTY OF TORQUE. THE OIL PUMP WAS REPLACED AS WELL AS HOSES, PLUGS AND WIRES. THE ODOMETER ON THE TRUCK WAS 94K.<O
<O
A visual inspection of the engine also indicates that there are no issues but who knows until I get it in there. For some reason I trust the guy and I hope I'm right. Anyway if it’s no good I am only out $150 and my time.<O<O
My question is; should I do any preventative maintenance to the engine before I swap it in. I.E. Oil seals, oil pan gasket, etc… Obviously now would be the easiest time.
<O
Also, does anyone see any issues swapping a 1991 F150 I6 into a 1996 F250.<O
<O
Finally, if anyone has any tips to help with the process of swapping these engines that would be great.<O
<O
Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I am clearly new to the Ford truck scene but am very excited to get started.<O</O
<O
Thanks again!<O</O
Evan<O</O
I just purchased a 1996 F250 XL from my boss for $500 so I am very excited. Only problem is the engine is blown. I also just purchased a 4.9l 300c.i. I6 engine with 94k miles on ebay for $150. Here is the previous owner’s description of the engine:<O
<O
THIS ENGINE WAS TAKEN FROM A 91 F150 LARIAT THAT HAD A BAD FRAME. THE ENGINE IS VERY CLEAN<O
></O><O
STRONG RUNNING WITH PLENTY OF TORQUE. THE OIL PUMP WAS REPLACED AS WELL AS HOSES, PLUGS AND WIRES. THE ODOMETER ON THE TRUCK WAS 94K.<O
<O
A visual inspection of the engine also indicates that there are no issues but who knows until I get it in there. For some reason I trust the guy and I hope I'm right. Anyway if it’s no good I am only out $150 and my time.<O
<OMy question is; should I do any preventative maintenance to the engine before I swap it in. I.E. Oil seals, oil pan gasket, etc… Obviously now would be the easiest time.
<O
Also, does anyone see any issues swapping a 1991 F150 I6 into a 1996 F250.<O
<O
Finally, if anyone has any tips to help with the process of swapping these engines that would be great.<O
<O
Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I am clearly new to the Ford truck scene but am very excited to get started.<O
</O<O
Thanks again!<O
</OEvan<O
</O
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Belle Mead NJ
Does the F250 have an I6? I should have at least a 5.8L V8. If you do have a 250 with a I6, then while you have the new motor out, id do every seal, and ck compression, and give a ck over of the engine, sludge in motor, does it look like oil has been changed or not, ect ect. And use good gaskets, Felpro Permadrys have worked awesome for me, 1 peice oil pan gasket, and then the side cover gasket. Good idea to put a new oil pump in, and maybe headgasket just for safe measure.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Hopefully you are replacing an I6 with an I6, and if so it should go very well. DO NOT remove any wiring from your truck or use any wiring on the donor motor, simply disconnect everything at the sensors/actuators when removing the blown motor and plug everything back into the replacement motor.
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Thank you two for the suggestions.
<O
The current and original motor in the truck is a inline6 4.9l. I believe they put a couple of these motors in the F250 XL's but I am no mid 90's Ford truck aficionado either.
<O</O
I suppose it is possible that someone swapped the badges a long time ago but I doubt it.
<O
Thanks again for the suggestions and it is pretty much what I figured. I do wonder if anyone else thinks it would be a good idea to change the head gasket. It seems to me that it would be a lot of work for something that may in fact be fine.<O
<O
I suppose this post would be better suited to the inline 6 specific forum but any and all help is appreciated.<O
<O
The current and original motor in the truck is a inline6 4.9l. I believe they put a couple of these motors in the F250 XL's but I am no mid 90's Ford truck aficionado either.
<O
</OI suppose it is possible that someone swapped the badges a long time ago but I doubt it.
<O
Thanks again for the suggestions and it is pretty much what I figured. I do wonder if anyone else thinks it would be a good idea to change the head gasket. It seems to me that it would be a lot of work for something that may in fact be fine.<O
<O
I suppose this post would be better suited to the inline 6 specific forum but any and all help is appreciated.<O
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,703
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From: Des Moines, Iowa
i-6's were put in the F-250's just not as commonly as F-150's...
if you aren't leaking or burning anything i wouldn't touch it... Then again with engine alread plucked and out you might want to change it and the valve cover gasket with a good felpro that way you don't have any surprise leaks after install.
If you believe him then you can leave the bottom end alone... but if you feel ambitious I would pop off the oil pan and check to make sure the oil pump and oil pan gasket were replaced... Trust me on this on you'd be way better off replacing them now!!! The seal and pump can be done later but it's a huge pain in the **** unless you want to lift the motor for more room... Plus if you pop the oil pan you can get a good look at the bottom end to make sure everything is in good order.
Also not that you need to butt you may want to consider going to a header instead of the cast iron exhaust manifold... more power and less restriction (but that depends on the condition of your stock/current set up.
Just a few thoughts of preventative and hp upgrades as long as your this far in...
if you aren't leaking or burning anything i wouldn't touch it... Then again with engine alread plucked and out you might want to change it and the valve cover gasket with a good felpro that way you don't have any surprise leaks after install.
If you believe him then you can leave the bottom end alone... but if you feel ambitious I would pop off the oil pan and check to make sure the oil pump and oil pan gasket were replaced... Trust me on this on you'd be way better off replacing them now!!! The seal and pump can be done later but it's a huge pain in the **** unless you want to lift the motor for more room... Plus if you pop the oil pan you can get a good look at the bottom end to make sure everything is in good order.
Also not that you need to butt you may want to consider going to a header instead of the cast iron exhaust manifold... more power and less restriction (but that depends on the condition of your stock/current set up.
Just a few thoughts of preventative and hp upgrades as long as your this far in...
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Hello,
I finally got the motor swapped. A torn mcl slowed me down a little bit but I got it in.
<O
<O
</O>
<O
I tried firing it up but the starter just bogs down and barely turns the motor over. The battery gauge is at about 1/3 with the key turned to accessory but when I go to start it falls way down. Also, the battery cables get hot to the touch. They are not smoking, but they are hot. I read that this can be caused by resistance possibly due to corrosion but there is no visible corrosion.
The truck has set for two years.<O
Do I need a new starter? Solenoid? Ignitions switch?<O
<O
I also have a fresh battery.<O
<O
If anyone can help it would be much appreciated. This has been a long project and I am dying to get this thing running
<O
Thanks in advance.<O
I finally got the motor swapped. A torn mcl slowed me down a little bit but I got it in.
<O
<O
</O><O
I tried firing it up but the starter just bogs down and barely turns the motor over. The battery gauge is at about 1/3 with the key turned to accessory but when I go to start it falls way down. Also, the battery cables get hot to the touch. They are not smoking, but they are hot. I read that this can be caused by resistance possibly due to corrosion but there is no visible corrosion.
The truck has set for two years.<O
Do I need a new starter? Solenoid? Ignitions switch?<O
<O
I also have a fresh battery.<O
<O
If anyone can help it would be much appreciated. This has been a long project and I am dying to get this thing running
<O
Thanks in advance.<O
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Did you use the flywheel/flexplate that was on the original motor and did you make sure the torque converter was properly seated before bolting up the engine?
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I used the flywheel that was on the original motor. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o></o>
<o></o>
I am not quite certain how to properly seat the torque converter so I guess I missed this step. The motor is bolted to the transmission and the torque converter is definitely in there. I'm not sure what else you can do.<o></o>
<o></o>
Thanks<o></o>
fficeffice" /><o></o><o
></o>I am not quite certain how to properly seat the torque converter so I guess I missed this step. The motor is bolted to the transmission and the torque converter is definitely in there. I'm not sure what else you can do.<o
></o><o
></o>Thanks<o
></o>
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FTE Legend
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
It's common for the TC to become partially dislodged when the engine is pulled away, and it will then get jambed when the motor is bolted up again. Put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and try to turn the motor, if you can't remove the bellhousing bolts and seperate the engine and trans, if you can then turn the motor over by hand you have confirmed the TC is jambed and you'll have to lift the motor out enough to properly seat it.
Postmaster
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From: Des Moines, Iowa
realizing i am going to be showing my ignorance here but could you describe "seating" better? Pushed all the way back into the tranny? or what???? sorry i am more of a Manual transmission guy...
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The torque converter has 4 studs and is fastened to the flywheel with 4 nuts. This is how it was when I took the motor out. This was the first time I have swapped a motor into a vehicle with an automatic transmission so I guess I messed up this procedure but when I put the new engine in I fastened it onto the flywheel instead of having it on the transmission shaft.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
<o> </o>
Was this incorrect?<o></o>
<o> </o>
I can’t see what difference it would make since the torque converter must be fastened to the flywheel in the end anyway but I am here to learn. Seems to me that if the motor is bolted to the bellhousing and the torque converter is bolted to the flywheel than by default the transmission shaft should be seated into the torque converter. Is my logic off?<o></o>
<o> </o>
Are you fairly certain that this is my problem and not an electrical issue?<o></o>
<o> </o>
I am sorry for all the questions but I am really trying to gain an understanding of this before I pull the motor again. I really would like to avoid pulling the engine if at all possible.<o></o>
<o> </o>
Thanks again.<o></o>
fficeffice" /><o></o><o
> </o>Was this incorrect?<o
></o><o
> </o>I can’t see what difference it would make since the torque converter must be fastened to the flywheel in the end anyway but I am here to learn. Seems to me that if the motor is bolted to the bellhousing and the torque converter is bolted to the flywheel than by default the transmission shaft should be seated into the torque converter. Is my logic off?<o
></o><o
> </o>Are you fairly certain that this is my problem and not an electrical issue?<o
></o><o
> </o>I am sorry for all the questions but I am really trying to gain an understanding of this before I pull the motor again. I really would like to avoid pulling the engine if at all possible.<o
></o><o
> </o>Thanks again.<o
></o>