Engine Pull and Replacement
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 12
From: Sand Lake, MI
The torque converter has 4 studs and is fastened to the flywheel with 4 nuts. This is how it was when I took the motor out. This was the first time I have swapped a motor into a vehicle with an automatic transmission so I guess I messed up this procedure but when I put the new engine in I fastened it onto the flywheel instead of having it on the transmission shaft.ffice
ffice" /><o>
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Was this incorrect?<o>></o>>
<o>> </o>>
I can’t see what difference it would make since the torque converter must be fastened to the flywheel in the end anyway but I am here to learn. Seems to me that if the motor is bolted to the bellhousing and the torque converter is bolted to the flywheel than by default the transmission shaft should be seated into the torque converter. Is my logic off?<o>></o>>
<o>> </o>>
Are you fairly certain that this is my problem and not an electrical issue?<o>></o>>
<o>> </o>>
I am sorry for all the questions but I am really trying to gain an understanding of this before I pull the motor again. I really would like to avoid pulling the engine if at all possible.<o>></o>>
<o>> </o>>
Thanks again.<o>></o>>
ffice" /><o>></o>><o>
> </o>>Was this incorrect?<o>
></o>><o>
> </o>>I can’t see what difference it would make since the torque converter must be fastened to the flywheel in the end anyway but I am here to learn. Seems to me that if the motor is bolted to the bellhousing and the torque converter is bolted to the flywheel than by default the transmission shaft should be seated into the torque converter. Is my logic off?<o>
></o>><o>
> </o>>Are you fairly certain that this is my problem and not an electrical issue?<o>
></o>><o>
> </o>>I am sorry for all the questions but I am really trying to gain an understanding of this before I pull the motor again. I really would like to avoid pulling the engine if at all possible.<o>
></o>><o>
> </o>>Thanks again.<o>
></o>>Yea some guys do it that way, torque converter bolted to the flex plate when the motor goes in but I do not do it that way.
You gotta be 100% sure the trans and converter are lined up first, both rotated to a position so the notches line up with the tangs on the TC. A real pain to do it like that.
I'd drop the trains and put the TC in the it first, then put the trans back in.
The converter will "drop in" in three distinct steps while held true to the trans body and rotated pushing it back, when fully seated the hub will be ¼" below the matting surface as measured off the bell housing face via a straight edge.
I looked up and found that exact measurement to post for another member but I'll be dang if I can find it again.
Regardless, if you get it to drop in three times it is all the way in, I know that from doing mine but I didn't actually stop to measure it once I knew it was fully seated.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Hey all.
Thanks for all the helpful advice.
Turns out I didn’t know as much about cars, or trucks rather, as I thought I did. Like I said previously, this was my first motor swap into an automatic. Anyhow, I should have done more investigating before taking on this project, but hindsight is what it is.
You were correct that my torque converter is not fully seated. I spent the better portion of this evening trying to get it seated but will have to continue tomorrow. Before I spend any more time trying to seat this thing, I think it is best to ask you all some new questions.
<O</O
I did try and search this but was unsuccessful.
<O
Also, I just wanted to add a few pictures so you could see the progress. I degreased the engine. I pulled all the covers and inspected the internals the best I could. Everything looked to be in great shape and the oil pump had recently been replaced. I put all covers back on with new gaskets and put in new freeze plugs. A couple of the old ones were more than questionable. I also gave it a couple coats of paint.
<O
<O
<O
<O
<O
</O
<OThanks again for all your help.</O
Thanks for all the helpful advice.
Turns out I didn’t know as much about cars, or trucks rather, as I thought I did. Like I said previously, this was my first motor swap into an automatic. Anyhow, I should have done more investigating before taking on this project, but hindsight is what it is.
You were correct that my torque converter is not fully seated. I spent the better portion of this evening trying to get it seated but will have to continue tomorrow. Before I spend any more time trying to seat this thing, I think it is best to ask you all some new questions.
<O
</OI did try and search this but was unsuccessful.
<O
- I have had the transmission bolted tight to the block without the torque convertor properly seated. Did I damage the pump or torque converter?
- Is it possible for me to seat properly the tc and forget about this time consuming mistake?
Also, I just wanted to add a few pictures so you could see the progress. I degreased the engine. I pulled all the covers and inspected the internals the best I could. Everything looked to be in great shape and the oil pump had recently been replaced. I put all covers back on with new gaskets and put in new freeze plugs. A couple of the old ones were more than questionable. I also gave it a couple coats of paint.
<O
<O<O
<O<O
</O<O
Thanks again for all your help.</O
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Hey, I just wanted to add a quick update.
I got the torque converter seated and it fired right up. I drove it around the lot a couple times and then the front to rear brake line burst in several places so I will be moving on to my next project. I will probably replace all the lines and more than likely go to braided hoses as well.
Thanks again for all the info.<O
I got the torque converter seated and it fired right up. I drove it around the lot a couple times and then the front to rear brake line burst in several places so I will be moving on to my next project. I will probably replace all the lines and more than likely go to braided hoses as well.
Thanks again for all the info.<O
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New User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
truck refuses to accelerate
Hey guys,
I need help once again.<O:p
I have brakes now but the truck doesn’t want to accelerate. I can rev the motor up fine when I have it in P. The truck will move forward in D, 2, 1, and backwards in R all as it should but has no pickup whatsoever even with the accelerator buried. I know it is not going to be a race truck with the I6 but it is a struggle to get it up to 12mph so something is definitely wrong.<O:p
I have the C6 transmission. I have replaced the filter, drained the torque converter, and refilled with the proper amount of ATF.<O:p
I will try and pull the codes tonight but I was hoping someone could lend some insight while I am sitting here at work.<O:p
<O:p
Thanks.<O:p
I need help once again.<O:p
I have brakes now but the truck doesn’t want to accelerate. I can rev the motor up fine when I have it in P. The truck will move forward in D, 2, 1, and backwards in R all as it should but has no pickup whatsoever even with the accelerator buried. I know it is not going to be a race truck with the I6 but it is a struggle to get it up to 12mph so something is definitely wrong.<O:p
I have the C6 transmission. I have replaced the filter, drained the torque converter, and refilled with the proper amount of ATF.<O:p
I will try and pull the codes tonight but I was hoping someone could lend some insight while I am sitting here at work.<O:p
<O:p
Thanks.<O:p
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Worth, Texas
Congratulations on getting the engine to run and drive! You got a good dealio, getting the truck for $650.00! The painting of the engine looks great!
Good luck with the brakes, it should be much easier than what you have already done.
Good luck with the brakes, it should be much easier than what you have already done.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Dude, are you serious? Like I said above, I’m not sure why this happens. I have posted from several different computers and the result is the same. I can assure you that I have not intentionally placed any smiley faces in any of my post. If I preview my post I am able to remove them but occasionally I forget to preview.ffice
ffice" /><O></O><O
></O>Anyhow, I am posting this one without edit as an example. It bugs me to!<O
></O><O
></O>Now that’s cleared up, thank you for the kind words Xclimation. It was one heck of a good deal. I have probably spent a couple hundred bucks at the parts store on various items but my goal is to have this thing running great for under a grand. Once everything is mechanically sound I will be welding in patch panels above the rear wheels and will re-spray the truck. I will probably two tone it with black around the midsection.<O
></O><O
></O>Anyone have any thoughts on why I can’t accelerate.<O
></O><O
></O>Code will be coming soon.<O
></O><O
></O>Thanks again!<O
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></O>
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: Beckley WV
im assuming accelerating was fine before the brake problems occured? if so it sounds like maybe a calliper is sticking or something is still not right with your brakes? does the truck pull one way or the other when you accelerate?
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New User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Good point and sorry I didn’t clarify. I have never really driven the truck outside of my works parking lot as the previous motor was blown. The time I drove it to determine that I had no brakes was not really a long enough trip to find out that I couldn’t accelerate. When the brake pedal went to the floor my trip was over. The truck does not pull one way or the other and I don’t hear anything binding while moving. None the less, it will be a good thing to check so thanks for the tip.
Sorry, I couldn’t help it.ffice
ffice" /><O></O>
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
You just put that motor in so how do you know the ignition timing is right? I'm guessing you had the distributor out so you'll have to make sure it has been reinserted correctly, With #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke the rotor button inside the dizzy should point to the the #1 post on the cap and the 0 timing mark on the crank balancer should be lined up with the timing mark.
ffice
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