Hay Chad:
The chunks could very well be from the valve seals. I replaced an old decreped set on the 352 and they were not all "complete" since they harden and break. Check the top of the pistons you have in the motor. Look for them to possible have a marking that would indicate they are oversize. For example, you may see a very small 030 or 060 embedded in them. If not, then you are almost assured a stocker engine. I will get back to you on the visit to Blue Oval this week, they are closed on Mondays. I use one of my other vehicles to pre-heat the garage, then keep that heater going since it only looks like 30's here this week!
-Mike G

 

Ditto what Mike G. says. My vote is for old hardened, brittle, and broken valve stem seals. Timing gear nylon is usually white-valve stem seals will be black.

I'm enjoying your ongoing story. I've got a 360 to tear down myself...

 

This is a VERY good point. The first 390 I put in my '74 F250 ate the cam. My machinist looked at the crank, rod and cam bearings and came away saying that the block was way out in terms of line-bore.

I got another 360 core from the junkyard and had him inspect the parts after I disassembled it. When he passed it, I used the block, and it's been purrrrrrfect.

art k.

 

If you end up sending your block to the machine shop, there are plenty of other things you can do while waiting for it.
Pull out all your bolts and clean them on a wire wheel, one group at a time. Then push them thru a cardboard and paint the heads.
Get your parts you know youll need to put it back together that dont come in the rebuild kit. Belts, hoses, waterpump, cam, oilpump, filters, gaskets, plugs, wires. New motor mounts now may save you a headache later.
Degrease under the hood of your rig.
If its an auto, put in a new front seal.

When all your parts are clean, its alot more pleasant to put back together.

Most of all, dont get in a hurry to get it done. If you do, youll forever be wondering if you tightened that bolt, or adjusted that screw.

Use a notebook and camera.


Thats all i can think of, it should keep you bussy for a while.

Have fun

Tony Warren
Nebraska

 

Hey guys, I sure appreciate all the great advice. I can use any you want to give! I am looking forward to doing this rebuild. It's something I have been wanting to do for a long time. Like 25 years or so! Yea, that's right...I am 44 years old and never torn into a V8! Pretty sad, eh? Never had the time, money or place to do it. Not that I have all of those right now either, but I figure ..what the heck, I got a garage now! 1 out of three isn't too bad. Why not give it a shot! I'll warn you now, this may be a long process. I am hoping not much longer than a couple of months or so. Of course, a lot of that will depend on the machine shop, from what I have heard. The truck I have now is running o.k., so I am not in a huge hurry, fortunately. Anyway, like I said any advice is welcome. Thanks again. Oh, hey, one quick question...anything I ned to know about crank bolt on the fron (holding the pullys on)? It's not reverse thread or anything is it?

Chad Burns
1968 F-250 390 2v auto
Aurora, Co.

 

Nope, right hand threads. Just really tight.
Greg

 

Chad, It is never to late to start a new hobby. Get a JEGS catalog and consider new fasteners. The vibration damper is a regular left off bolt. You will need a puller to get the balancer off. Get plastic baggies and a felt marker and label everything. There is a fellow in your area you should meet Rob McQ at 303 762-8298. Go visit him! Post your head, block rod and crankshaft part numbers. Buy an engine stand they cost about 40 bucks or so and you need this!
William in Atlanta

 

you will actually have three smaller bolts to hold the pullys on to the dampner, then the one bolt in the middle for the dampner. If I remember correctly, the center bolt will loosen in the normal fashion, no trickery there, however it may be tight. In the past, I have held a crowbar between the bolts for the flywheel/flexplate and then used a rather long bar to loosen the front bolt.
--Mike G

 

Hi Chad,

I picked up a 67 352 recently and tore into it this weekend. It has a plastic (nylon, phenolic, etc) timing gear. I too had a small chunk of it in the pan. The chunk fit perfectly into the broken tooth on the timing gear.

I am in the same boat as you. I am 39 and got this engine to tear down and learn how they're built. I'd never taken a V8 down either. Steve Christs book is a big help. So are all my motorhead buddies. My engine looks very good inside. The only surprise was about a gallon of water in the pan (with a gallon of oil too) and a pushrod ball in the pan. All the pushrods had their top and bottom *****, so it must've had the bad rod replaced.

I'll get into taking the cam and crank out when the weather warms up again.

Good luck on your project!

Spudco in Denver

 

Hey William:
Just went to visit Rob over at Blua Oval and shared the experience with my co-horts here in Colorado. Told him you recommended the shop. Great guy, I could hang out there for hours. This darn work thing keeps getting in the way of the fun!
--Mike G

 

Standard thread, good luck

 

There aren't any left hand threaded bolts or nuts in any Ford engine that I am aware of so don't worry.
The best advice I can give to you on this rebuild is to follow the assembly specs laid out in the book you have ordered.
If you aren't familiar with the FE engines you can be in for some suprises. You may discover that your engine has a special reinforced block that isn't really what you thought it is. Ford did install some heavier block engines in lighter duty applications, so look yours over after reading Steve Christ's book. I have a reinforced block that allowed me to build it to a 428. The cylinder walls are thicker and it has heavy duty main bearing webs. This engine is a service replacement block. From 1968 on I think Ford used partial VINs on engine blocks. Mine has no partial VIN on it and it is a 1974 block so it should except for the fact that Ford didn't stamp replacement blocks. Look at the top left rear of your block for the serial numbers. Your block may not have the partial VIN being as old as it is. It will be interesting to see if the numbers match your truck though. Let us know what you find.

The break in period is as important as the assembly, so look at those details closely as well. Good luck and have fun.

 

Crank bolt is a regular right hand thread (lefty loosy, righty tighty). You might need an impact wrench to loosen it, if everything else is disassembled. Or you can get a buddy to help hold somewhere, maybe on the flywheel, or flexplate, or something. Be carefull on the machined surfaces.

I've personally seen several cam sprockets with plastic on metal(Aluminum alloy) in FE's virgin from ford. But have never seen a replacement of this orientation. I agree with the white color as mentioned, when clean.

Have fun, s