I need to install the rear shocks on my truck. I just cant think of a good way to mount the bottom of the shock to the axle. If you look in the photo i want to place the shock on the back side of the lower 4-link bar. I would also have it going straight up tp the outside of the frame. Ive stared way to much at it and still cant think of a way. Im getting tunnel vission and i beat myself over this simple thing. Its always the little things that get in the way!LOL
As far as the top mount thats easy.


the shock it self has a bolt through the end mount stlye, if that made sense?
Do you think i should have them going the same direction or opposite?Does it even matter?

Oh, what to do???

 

How about welding a U shaped bracket to the 4 link bracket, with the "bottom" of the U against the brackets and the legs sticking backward? Drill a hole in each side for the bolt to go through. I believe you meant your shock had an "eye" on the bottom, not a stud hanging down. If it's too wide, you can pinch the sides together, or use spacers on either side between the shock eye and bracket.

 

I would angle the top of the shock inwards and rearwards to be most effective, something in the 15-25* range inwards and 5-10* rearwards. You don't need a thru bolt on the bottom, a stud would work as well if the bracket is built sturdy enough to not bend. It's a lot easier to get a stud at the right compound angle by bolting the shock in place at ride height then tackwelding the stud head to the bracket. Remove the shock and finish welding. IIWM, I'd make the bracket out of 1/8" wall rect tubing the same width as the distance between the lower 4 bar brackets. Usually you don't like my suggestions, but I can draw a sketch of how I'd do it if you'd like, just ask.

NOTE: correct mounting for an eyed shock is with the mounting stud through the eye running fore-aft, NOT side to side.

 

Ax im sorry if you feel that way but thats not true at all! I am always willing to hear others input. I would like to hear, see your idea. Thanks!!

 

OK, here's some quick sketches:


Note vertical position of stud re ground can be almost any length < 1/4" inside wheel rim diameter (to avoid road contact in case of flat tire), should be determined by at rest length of shock between mounts (mid stroke).
I would drill stud head side of tab oversize and not weld tabs together until after adjusting stud angle. Once stud angle is set weld sides together to lock and weld head to tab.
I included a sketch of locating the ideal inward shock inclination mount location. You can use more inclination but don't exceed 30* from vertical however. You might be able to reinforce the crossmember behind axle for upper studs if shock is double eye or better would be to replace it with a tubular crossmember with stud thru it and welded.
Any questions? just ask.

 

Ax, Thanks for the sketch!! That helps alot!!! I will be going to the outside of the frame behind the c-notch for the top mount.

What thickness of metal do you think i should use? I have 3/16 plate that i can plasma cut to make the lower mounts.

For the top i would just make a pocket that the shock would slide into and a bolt through it.


I think now i look at the brackets for the 4 bars should have been welded to the front side of the axle instead of what i did in the rear.

 

That will mount your shocks without any inboard tilt. OK for going in straight line to keep the truck from bucking front to rear but the shocks will have little to no effect going around corners. Think of a stepladder with the top over the center of the axle and the legs under the ends of the axle. Even if the ends of the legs were pivoted at the floor and hinged at the top you could still safely climb the ladder. Now make it a 3 section ladder like a wide door frame or bridge with the legs vertical and a horizontal member across the top, hinged at the top and floor. Now if you attempted to climb the ladder it would immediately fall over towards the other side, there would be no resistance to the force of your weight pushing across the vehicle that would keep the ladder upright. the shocks would have no damping over body roll.
Do the shocks have eyes at both ends? if so you don't really want to install them into a pocket, the shock needs to be able to twist and swing. Our racing shocks have spherical bearings on the ends rather than rubber bushed eyes so there is no resistance to that swiveling motion.
I'd mount the top of the shock inboard of the frame at an angle that clears the frame and tilted 5-10* rearwards, repositioning the crossmember if needed for the top mount stud pointed forwards.
3/16" material doubled and boxed like in my diagram would be battleship strong, 1/8 stock would be ample just keep the tab where the stud is short.

 

nice scetch

 

The panhard bar is in that location infront of the crossmember. You say i wont have enough of an inboard angle on the outside? I take your word on that. I should be looking at more of an angle inwards than? Theres always something in the way!LOL

 

I get a 20* angle if i was to mount the stud on the outside of the bracket in you drawing. You have it in the center of the bar bracket. theres seems to be lot of room from the outside to the tire.

Yes the shocks have rubber eyes on the ends. Both could use a stud bolt.

 

heres a quick pic of what i think would work if i understand the angles you said? Let me know if im wrong!



Theres more pics if you go to the link in my signature.

 

I replied, but it evidently got sent to the wrong cyberspace code or something ending up on a Holly Hobby forum...
20* is workable, put the lower stud out towards the wheel as much as possible. make sure the studs go N-S and are perpendicular to the shock eye and parallel to each other. The mounts don't need to be super-super strong, they don't hold up the truck and unless specially valved aren't that stiff. Be sure to cycle the suspension completely to check for bind anywhere especially at one wheel full up the other full down. Also be sure the shocks don't bottom out, the valve at the bottom will be destroyed in short order.

 

Looking at your picture, are those three holes by the pinion for an original track bar? Could you use that for a mounting point for a pan hard bar? Run your bar from there over to the frame, then you could mount your shocks as described by AX.

 

Thanks AX!!! Its nice to bounce ideas of someone other than my self.

Xfordman, i started with my panhard bar @ that location but i wanted a longer one thats why i changed location to the back. I feel that i can mount the shocks on the outside and my quick little mock up shows that it should work. I will have to tack evrything in and see how it works out.

 

A better use IMHO would have been to use that mounting point for the center pivot of a wishbone upper bar along with parallel or angled lower bars and eliminating the need for a panhard bar all together.