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Incredible, can't imagine, no respect for the equipment.
Just spoke w/a buddy of mine by cellie couppla states away. Brand new mower lent out to Dave. Busted the shaft hittin chit w/the blade, had to tell him how MY mower story. It was destroyed by another David by going into the tall grass and to keep it from stallin he bounced it up n down on the ground (to knock out the huge quantity of grass) for the whole time - shattering the gas tank offa it, fracturing the tube from there to the carb and separation the magneto from it's wiring! Sorry to any 1 named David.
Wasup w/ these folks? I bet they don't leave the toilet w/o wipin, drive the car down the hwy backwards by use of the rear view? I am far from a mechanic but boy...
(rant over).
I have a '90 F-150 4.9. Just put her back on the road after nearly 3 yrs of sitting around. Motor seems to run good most of the time but occasionally a lifter will start to tap really bad. Twice when this happened it got to the point that the engine started to miss and the oil pres dropped to 0 then came back. After turning off the engine and checking oil level the lifter quieted down and engine seemed to run fine when I cranked it back up.
Having a similar situation myself, except this is my daily-driver; '91 with about 164k on it. At the beginning of my commute engine runs nice and quiet(except for that bucking thing attributed to the EGR once it's warmed up), by the time I get to the end of the line(45 minutes, mostly highway, approx 24 miles) the idle is really rough, and there is that quiet tapping. The oil needle pressure drop is intermittent, depending on my foot being on the gas - truck doesn't seem to want to stall so I assumed bad gauge? but it's worrisome because it's new behaviour, I'd say I've only noticed it in the last month. I've run nothing but Mobil 1 in this truck since I've owned it(10 years now), and if I listen to the truck idle with the hood up the tapping seems to be from the front of the block, but it's very soft, I replaced a pulley thinking that is what it was. Wondered if, combined with my rough idle issue that it wasn't time to clean the egr and look at replacing the idle air.
Father/Son - do you have one engine flush you prefer over the other?
first off, hi, over the years, i have used ATF, and a product made by gunk. i assume you read my post on this subject,otherwise you would not be asking right(grin). my point, i worked hard to convey that this procedure is not a magic bullet. but the fact is, sometimes it will help and/or actually make a minor problem go away. it is about, sticking valves in the guides, your ring packs, gummed up with carbon, combustion by products, and most of all, your lifters. it is not uncommon to here a man ask. i swear my motor runs and sounds better. is it my imagination, or did it work. sometimes it doe,s help and relatively speaking it is a first, Reasonably cheap tool to diagnose. but again, PLEASE pay very close attention to the cautions. do NOT rev your block. it WILL not make it better or work faster, flush with cheap oil and filter, Then and only then, run your QUALITY, oil and filter. and absouletely do not drive with the flush. this is a driveway deal only when you have a little time to really devote to your favorite ride. i think thats it, but i promise you, any ????. i,m game and i WILL do me best tx man and be patient, . HI CHAD,, paul.
it,s the way it is for me cuzzz/ listen, this is NOT a knock on you. the economy is tight, more than one good man has lost a good job, through no fault of there own. etc etc. myself, i am and have always been a blue collar working boy. my point, if you honestly cannot pony up,(no shame)for the extra 6 and filter. you probably should wait until you can. WHY, the purge is so important, whatever you use, you want it gone, and you want fresh good oil. , before you put her back to work. fair enough, you can understand why.okay? OKAY my man. good luck and please call me paul.
Just got the oil pan off a little while ago and the screen on the oil pick up tube was BIG TIME clogged. Only had a VERY small spot that was not clogged. A lot of the junk looked like pieces of the oil pan gasket had bgoken offf and fell into pan. Will see what appens when I get her all cleaned up and back together.
first off, hi, over the years, i have used ATF, and a product made by gunk. i assume you read my post on this subject,otherwise you would not be asking right(grin). my point, i worked hard to convey that this procedure is not a magic bullet. but the fact is, sometimes it will help and/or actually make a minor problem go away. it is about, sticking valves in the guides, your ring packs, gummed up with carbon, combustion by products, and most of all, your lifters. it is not uncommon to here a man ask. i swear my motor runs and sounds better. is it my imagination, or did it work. sometimes it doe,s help and relatively speaking it is a first, Reasonably cheap tool to diagnose. but again, PLEASE pay very close attention to the cautions. do NOT rev your block. it WILL not make it better or work faster, flush with cheap oil and filter, Then and only then, run your QUALITY, oil and filter. and absouletely do not drive with the flush. this is a driveway deal only when you have a little time to really devote to your favorite ride. i think thats it, but i promise you, any ????. i,m game and i WILL do me best tx man and be patient, . HI CHAD,, paul.
Nah, it's all good. Over the years it has been my *opinion* that additives and such are snake oil - changing oil regularly with a good filter and other basic maintenance routines is often all a good engine needs to live a healthy life. Anything else at that point is either poor design or operator error.... Never had a problem, still really don't but the tapping and sudden drop of oil pressure is new behavior. I think - unless someone could set me down a different path - that the tapping is something out of whack with the timing or related to an issue with the efi. Between that noise and the recent rough idle, that's where I'm leaning anyhoo, but I'd like to say I tried just about everything. And yeah, I heard of the ATF flush, and know not to drive the engine.... I think Seafoam is a brand I hear mentioned, but again as my opinion is on the downside of that sort of thing, I don't often pay a lot of attention when that topic comes up. Curious from an academic point of view on your opinion/experience. Thanks!
I have used ATF to help clean up a gummy, neglected engine before. ATF is a thinner base, but still oil. Changing the oil/filter, and substituting a qt of ATF for 1 qt of oil (particularly with the 6 qt capacity) is safe to use while driving, within reason. Of course, in a badly gummed engine, this mix will get VERY black very quickly, and should be changed at 500-1000 mile intervals until it stays relatively clean for the entire cycle.
ATF is a lubricant, or it wouldn't be used in the later model manual transmissions.
One item that has not been mentioned, but worth noting, is the fiber tooth cam gear. I'm not sure what years these were used, but they are famous for starting to fall apart between 150-200K, and the bits that come off can easily clog the pickup tube for the oil pump, even in an otherwise perfectly maintained engine.
I think Seafoam is a brand I hear mentioned, but again as my opinion is on the downside of that sort of thing
As is mine. That chit gets all over everything in side the engine (if it's what I think) and sticks/gums it up. Guys suck it in a ported/manifold vacuum, yuck!
I have used ATF to help clean up a gummy, neglected engine before. ATF is a thinner base, but still oil. Changing the oil/filter, and substituting a qt of ATF for 1 qt of oil (particularly with the 6 qt capacity) is safe to use while driving, within reason. Of course, in a badly gummed engine, this mix will get VERY black very quickly, and should be changed at 500-1000 mile intervals until it stays relatively clean for the entire cycle.
ATF is a lubricant, or it wouldn't be used in the later model manual transmissions.
One item that has not been mentioned, but worth noting, is the fiber tooth cam gear. I'm not sure what years these were used, but they are famous for starting to fall apart between 150-200K, and the bits that come off can easily clog the pickup tube for the oil pump, even in an otherwise perfectly maintained engine.
Sooo... when we say ATF, do we mean DexMerc, Merc, Type F?
(and I'm going to pretend I didn't read that 'fiber tooth cam' part, since I'm easily made paranoid... but I'll keep it in mind anyway...)
Dex II was what I always used, since it was easily found and cheap.
Ignoring the problem doesn't make it go away, but I know what you mean. I've been pretending to not have seen the timing chain guide that's broke on my nissan. It was *only* 100K miles ago that I seen it laying in the pan when I had the rocker cover off....... A couple mechanic buddies of mine just shake their heads when I mention that, dunno why. I keep telling them I'll replace the chain/gears/guides when it reaches 1/4 million miles. It's nearly there.
i just seafoamed my engine, and ran it for a week in there. at the end of the week i replaced my much needed oil pan and valve cover gasket. clean as a whistle inside!
After cleaning the screen and getting everything back together and driving around for a couple of days, everything seems to be working much better. Lifters sound quiet now.
After cleaning the screen and getting everything back together and driving around for a couple of days, everything seems to be working much better. Lifters sound quiet now.
Nice. The ol wait n see 4 now...
(BTW: U near Charlotte, VA; Buchanon, WVa, or...)
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