yeaaah!
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 922
Likes: 1
From: San Diego
yeaaah!
It's finally going in.
out with the old tranny,
in with the new (rebuilt) motor
and new to me t-18
it's all the little parts that are going to kill me in this swap. more photos to come.
out with the old tranny,
in with the new (rebuilt) motor
and new to me t-18
it's all the little parts that are going to kill me in this swap. more photos to come.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 922
Likes: 1
From: San Diego
In case anyone was looking to swap a t-18 in and an SROD out..
Let it be known that you have to flip the crossmember around to line up the mounts...
Talk about a PITA
on another note, does anyone know the thread size on the exhaust manifold studs for attaching the exhaust pipe? (speaking of a 300 six)
Let it be known that you have to flip the crossmember around to line up the mounts...
Talk about a PITA
on another note, does anyone know the thread size on the exhaust manifold studs for attaching the exhaust pipe? (speaking of a 300 six)
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 922
Likes: 1
From: San Diego
Ending photos:
Zip tied fan shroud because clips wouldn't work on new radiator, had to use generic upper hose because the stores didn't have a line on the correct hose (the one I did get was 7 inches off of where it was supposed to go).
the down pipe I managed to find without a cat:
my rebuilt carb, with a dashpot that disintegrated shortly after the engine came back to life.
t-18 hiding in the dark:
bushing mount from the 302 because I neglected to obtain one ant the junk yard
beauty itself:
old and new shifter holes:
Zip tied fan shroud because clips wouldn't work on new radiator, had to use generic upper hose because the stores didn't have a line on the correct hose (the one I did get was 7 inches off of where it was supposed to go).
the down pipe I managed to find without a cat:
my rebuilt carb, with a dashpot that disintegrated shortly after the engine came back to life.
t-18 hiding in the dark:
bushing mount from the 302 because I neglected to obtain one ant the junk yard
beauty itself:
old and new shifter holes:
Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
You need to get that upper radiator hose so it doesn't go up then back down leaving a high point, it could vapor lock right there and cause heating issues... technically it should slope slightly all the way up.
Looks good though.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Looks good though.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 922
Likes: 1
From: San Diego
fh, I'm not sure how I would do that, because the water neck there exits the block vertically and the radiator inlet is roughly at the same level. Maybe a shorter hose but if I bend that one at all, it kinks...
would it vapor lock being on the positive pressure side of the pump?
would it vapor lock being on the positive pressure side of the pump?
Last edited by 6fifty_f1fifty; Jun 4, 2010 at 10:34 PM. Reason: ?
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Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
Yup ...
Steam will build at the highest point, thats why radiators or pressure reservoirs are the highest point in the cooling system.
Pressure Reservoirs not over flow reservoirs.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Steam will build at the highest point, thats why radiators or pressure reservoirs are the highest point in the cooling system.
Pressure Reservoirs not over flow reservoirs.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
You cannot cut a universal hose like that ...
You need to get an original thats formed and possibly modify it a bit.
Sounds like it wouldn't reach the radiator ... Cut it in a straight location that if extended will get it to the right location and add a section ... Or use TWO and cut and splice.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
You need to get an original thats formed and possibly modify it a bit.
Sounds like it wouldn't reach the radiator ... Cut it in a straight location that if extended will get it to the right location and add a section ... Or use TWO and cut and splice.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
I can tell from looking at the rad, you need the factory A/C upper hose. The non a/c rad was narrower (~22") than a/c (~27"). That what the other set of holes in top of the rad support are for.
Looks great! T18 is a huge upgrade over the OD, as far as towing and strength, but comes with a minor MPG hit on the hyw, unloaded.
I always amke a joke about these trucks offering 2 styles of 4 speed tran, and both had 1 gear that was only useful under certain conditions. I'd rather the seldom used gear be at the bottom, to make heavy things move easier, than at top to make a couple extra MPG unloaded.
Just curious, what rear gears are under that?
Great job getting it back together and running. It should last you many years to come, with just a little regular maintainance.
Looks great! T18 is a huge upgrade over the OD, as far as towing and strength, but comes with a minor MPG hit on the hyw, unloaded.
I always amke a joke about these trucks offering 2 styles of 4 speed tran, and both had 1 gear that was only useful under certain conditions. I'd rather the seldom used gear be at the bottom, to make heavy things move easier, than at top to make a couple extra MPG unloaded.
Just curious, what rear gears are under that?
Great job getting it back together and running. It should last you many years to come, with just a little regular maintainance.