Injector Replacement
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
alrighty, back on topic.
Step one says to remove valve cover. Easy enough. But there is too much crap in the way. Ive taken off the aluminum boost tube, air intake, and coolant bottle. Drivers side looks like I can take it off now. Passenger side looks like I need to take the A/C apparattus off in the corner of the firewall. Am I right? If so, Ive taken (5) 8mm bolts(for plastic) out that look like it holds it in, but it still wont budge. Any tips?
Step one says to remove valve cover. Easy enough. But there is too much crap in the way. Ive taken off the aluminum boost tube, air intake, and coolant bottle. Drivers side looks like I can take it off now. Passenger side looks like I need to take the A/C apparattus off in the corner of the firewall. Am I right? If so, Ive taken (5) 8mm bolts(for plastic) out that look like it holds it in, but it still wont budge. Any tips?
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,504
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
I agree. The A/C evaporator housing DOES NOT need to be removed to access the passenger side valve cover. A short 12mm racheting type wrench is all that's needed to access those two bolts.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,504
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Also, a chrome 19mm 12 point socket will be needed to push all eight injector connectors through the rocker arm carrier, in absence of the Rotunda tool. This of course, is after you've removed all nine TX-30 bolts securing each rail over the top of the injectors. After that, simply remove the TX-40 injector hold-down bolts and the injector will come out.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
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ok thanks guys. I'm gonna go out and try that. It looks like the Ford mechanic who did my head gasket replacement stripped the 10mm hold down washer type bolts on the silver module on the drivers side. Its a biotch.....
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,504
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
If you are referring to the four 10mm nuts that secure the FICM mounting brackets to the valve cover, use the open end of a 12mm wrench to hold the valve cover stud while loosening the said 10mm nuts to prevent the stud from turning as well. It's very common for these nuts to be overtightened.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 93
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From: Chippewa Falls
It isnt all that bad, The nightmare part is when the injectors you bought dont work and have to take it all apart 3 times. Bought one from ford, didnt work, had to replace. Bought 4 from Pensicola diesel, 1 didnt work, put everything back together then the tip split on another. Very, very frusterating. I have not had any luck with injectors.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
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valve cover is off. 9 T-30 bolts are out. How do I get the rail out on the passenger side? There is a tube on the back of the rail going down into the head. And the stupid A/C **** is keeping the rail from being able to pull out. Any tips on this?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
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Sorry for so many posts guys. I just really don't wanna mess anything up.
This is the oil rail thing. In the back of the picture u can see the tube going down into the head. This is whats keeping me from taking this thing off.
I have it turned slightly so now I can see the injectors. Where does the 19mm socket go?
This is the oil rail thing. In the back of the picture u can see the tube going down into the head. This is whats keeping me from taking this thing off.
I have it turned slightly so now I can see the injectors. Where does the 19mm socket go?
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 12,123
Likes: 35
From: N. Fort Worth, tx
soem times the stand pipe gets stuck together but it is 2 parts. you will need to seperate them to remove it. the tube wont fall in.. the base of the tube is feed from the branch tube.