Engine swap time bad flatty
#1
Engine swap time bad flatty
Hey folks, although I had a few interested folks in my 52 f1 I'm not selling it at least for now. The truck recently developed a slight smoking problem after I took it around the bock the other day . I thought head gasket, so I pulled the pass side head although I cannot see any cracks in the cylinders I do see a chunk taken out of the top of #1 cylinder. the wall is smooth but the piston has some dents in it. I'm thinkin since this truck sat for a while the electrode on the spark plug broke or rotted off and it took a while for the damage to show up? Pics to come, any advice on what I can sell this block off for? It's got new headers, extensions alt bracket , heads worth anything?. I'm thinking to pull it apart and sell off the pieces.
I really don;t want to do all this work but I'm thinking of swapping in a modern v8. I found a "was running when parked" montego with a 351 and c4 , another ran when parked 289 and c4 or maybe I can source a 302 and aod... I'd love to do the 312 I found in the local junk yard but he wants $450 with no promises... I'm looking for a non-major rebuild.
I'm a bit embarrassed on how much of a fool I was on this truck. The motor ran so well fired right up, idles smoothly.
The general consensus on reading the forum is a "windsor" block is about the easiest swap...
I really don;t want to do all this work but I'm thinking of swapping in a modern v8. I found a "was running when parked" montego with a 351 and c4 , another ran when parked 289 and c4 or maybe I can source a 302 and aod... I'd love to do the 312 I found in the local junk yard but he wants $450 with no promises... I'm looking for a non-major rebuild.
I'm a bit embarrassed on how much of a fool I was on this truck. The motor ran so well fired right up, idles smoothly.
The general consensus on reading the forum is a "windsor" block is about the easiest swap...
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yes dent where the chunk came off, the walls are good, no damage. The reason I took her down was she was smoking. I don;t know if it was the chunks, a bad gasket or a cracked block... I'm really torn on weather I want to spend any cash on this motor.. Are you suggesting I just slap on a new set of gaskets and see if that fixes the problem? Tempting. It not caring makes me feel a little better that my comp tests were done correct,
#11
Yes, that's what I was going to say. The rings don't run up that high, but the piston is toast. Used pistons are cheap and easy to get. Need to check the rod in case it got bent. You've little to lose by tearing into it a bit, drop the pan and pull that piston out.
#12
cylinder walls
yes dent where the chunk came off, the walls are good, no damage. The reason I took her down was she was smoking. I don;t know if it was the chunks, a bad gasket or a cracked block... I'm really torn on weather I want to spend any cash on this motor.. Are you suggesting I just slap on a new set of gaskets and see if that fixes the problem? Tempting. It not caring makes me feel a little better that my comp tests were done correct,
#13
I'm not opposed to that, I'm searching now. I'm on a bit of a time line or it will get pushed out another year.
Choices for engines currently available to me right now.
running rebuilt engines that have been sittin 10+year ago with c4 tranny $350 a 351 mid 70's car a 66/67 289 both have tranny's both are complete I have not checked to see if the motors are locked up or not. I trust the guy selling them that they did rn and were recently rebuilt. but they have been sittin in the cars..
I can even swap my dead flatty for a mid 60's buick 401 with dynaflow auto tranny that was running when it was pulled. it's missing a carb and pulleys.
Buddy has a running driving chebby treefity(350) I can get with ram horn exhaust for $250 complete freshly pulled.
I'm leaning twords an auto because I'm keeping the floor pedals.
I don;t mind pulling down an engine and running though the gaskets ect.. but I don;t want to do a major rebuild on top of fitting this motor in the framerails.
the smart choice would be the 350 but I would have a hard time driving the truck with a bag over my head.. the cool choice would be the nailhead. but that's a lot of work and unknowns. I know it's been done..
#15
You'd be surprised what and engine can handle. I once witnessed washer go down the carb of a SBC. The thing made all sorts of gawdawful noises. My buddy didn't want to tear it apart so he revved it a few times, after awhile you could hear the piece ratly bang down the exahust header tube. My buddy drove the car for about a year before replacing the engine. When I tore the engine apart the tops of every single piston were beat to holy he**.
Basically a few dents, dings, and gouges in the tops of a piston aren't going to hurt you at all, expecially an old flatty. If you're on a tight budget right now My suggestion is to replace the valve that has the chunks missing from it. Lap it into place real good and slap the thing back together. Worst case scenario is to drop the pan and replace the one piston like Ross suggested.
It'll start and run. Yes, it won't be perfect (but how many of them are) This will give you time to decide what you want to do; search for another flatty, rebuild yours, driveline swap, etc.
It takes more than a few small chunks from a valve to kill one of these engines
Good luck
Bobby
Basically a few dents, dings, and gouges in the tops of a piston aren't going to hurt you at all, expecially an old flatty. If you're on a tight budget right now My suggestion is to replace the valve that has the chunks missing from it. Lap it into place real good and slap the thing back together. Worst case scenario is to drop the pan and replace the one piston like Ross suggested.
It'll start and run. Yes, it won't be perfect (but how many of them are) This will give you time to decide what you want to do; search for another flatty, rebuild yours, driveline swap, etc.
It takes more than a few small chunks from a valve to kill one of these engines
Good luck
Bobby