Well, the new owner of my flatty came by and dropped off my C4 and gave some news the flathead block is cracked..I felt bad, but he stood by his word and reminded me that I told him he was taking a chance. So no hard feelings, besides he still got all my extras.

 

Bet you're glad you didn't sink any more money into it now huh?

 

A quick update. The intake is installed, flywheel, and clutch. I believe I have my tranny mount figured out. So I'm just waiting for the engine mount and the headers, so I can place the engine. I'd have gotten a little more headway but I forgot flywheel bolts and a few other misc bolts I need to pick up. I'm changing the oil pump and dizzy while it's easily accessible. I have about $400 into while I have the motor out...costs.. hopefully no more major items to buy.


I'm thinking the doghouse and hood weigh about #200lbs ?? Is that about right? This is a long shot but does any one know the length of the driveshaft of a 4speed F1?

 

The summit headers came in today, and I got the ccp crossmember in the other day. It looks like all should fit well. I must have measure and re-measured 12x and something is still amiss. My crossmemeber is 1/2" out of square in the frame when the engine is lined up true.?? I'm just hoping I didn;t measure something wrong...

 

Is there a left and a right side on the crossmember? Could the mounts themselves be offset or asymetrical? Is there a chance it could be in backwards?

 

I tried that, it will only mount one way. I have it in and bolted down. after all is said and done I think I'm only out less than an 1/8" on the engine. The only reason I noticed anything weird is one bolt hit the shock mount. I need to remeasure maybe the shock mount is off a smidge....

 

It's looking good, Bob! Your pics are great and they're helping me visualize my own project. I'm going to be stuffing the same engine in basically the same truck this fall. About the only difference is that I'm going to run a Toyota P/S box instead of the stocker, but the dimensions are similar. The complication that I've ran into is finding headers that will fit with the straight plug GT40P heads that I'm using. I have no doubt that the headers you've got will fit. Can you give me some more info on them? Also, have you tried to hang a starter on it yet? Most Ford block hugger type headers are spec'ed to be used with a small gear reduction starter due to clearance issues. I've been wondering if that would be absolutely necessary on a 351W since it has a taller deck and the headers are consequently higher up and farther out to the sides than the more common 302. Last question - how much clearance do you have between the crossmember and the oil pan? My engine came out of a truck also and has the same pan. I've been wondering if I'd need to switch to a front sump.

 

the crossmemeber I have is for stock axles only(no IFS) and clears the pan with about an 1" . I'm not sure I would choose it again. I believe it is tweeked a little causing my measurments to be off. It is easy to install just cut some off the ends and bolt in...I could not find a style I liked so I got this one.

My engine is also from a truck. I did not hang the starter yet. I need to find a core first. And a bag of money would help also. Looks like a lot of room there but I don't have a reference. I could tell you if you can measure how long the starter is from the bell.

These header are the ebay summit racing specials. I think they were about $135 shipped. they have a 90 day return policy so I took a chance. I did look through about 100 pics and descriptions of headers to find these. Sanderson makes a set also for $300. These are not show quality by any means but built well and tested..

 

OK taking a break. The engine is set and locked down I did favor the pass side 1/2 for extra clearance on the drivers side. I have a laundry list of things to do yet. I have some trouble with the clutch and had to pull the whole thing again (less than 30 mins) The 11" clutch setup was rubbing the bellhousing. A reminder to all, spin the motor by hand before you drop it in...

I'm having some trouble with the hurst shifter I have here kinda clunky and I have it working out of the truck but when I put it in it's a pain. I'll still have to pull it again because it's for a car I'll chop off the top and leave a small stub, drill 2 holes and run a gooseneck truck shifter.


I did have to remove the brake line mounts. I thought I had cut them well but I cut them in 1/2 by accident. I'll have to make a quick set or just drill holes in the frame and mount hem there.


Does anyone have a measurement on the length of a starter?

big things to do:

exhaust
clutch actuation
shifter
alt conversion to delco
electric fan
driveshaft
put back together

I'm still thinking I'm about a month away.. mostly due to money issues..

 

the starter will need to be not longer than 6 1/2 inches at the mail case. I have a mid 90's starter here and it will fit, but I need one from a manual tranny. I measured a stock 84 and it will be to long @ 7" and 8" to the nub. I cannot see how any regular sized starter will work with headers. Looks like I'll have to do a little rewiring of my starting circuit..

 

gettin close. throttle is done, I'm using a starter from a 92 truck Great size for the headers and it was only $40 on ebay. And my gm alt is fitted and rebuilt.

 

I may be accused of having a vested interest because I have several rebuilt flatties for sale, but I would never want one of these period trucks without anything but the flathead. They motor the trucks around just fine and they are mighty tough engines. And nothing fits in the engine compartment better...slim

 

A quick update. Although I I'm a bit behind from a few house and fun projects. Camping, rebuilding boat and trailer, car show.....I've had some major delays with my procomp HEI dizzy. 2 coils and 2 different modules, I had to send it back and I'm waiting for that. I tried to start it 2 weeks ago and I've been dealing with that. I have the shifter and 4 speed installed. WOW the shifter was a real pain and I had to remove the engine to get to the pedals to make the clutch linkage..

Things to do;
install dizzy and test start.
figure out a way to install brake return spring
install mufflers
cut a hole in my floor hump
buy/install pedal gaskets and pads
get driveshaft cut and install
replace front and hood
seatbelts
drive the **** out of it

 

Phew, she's back to life.. I had some issues with the dizzy and I had the fuel lines reversed. Got that fixed and bam fired right up. I still need to shake out the timeing , carb and little stuff. I'm hoping to get all that done my tuesday and slap the hood on we're running.