Does anyone know the safe operating temperature range for the E4OD? I know that heat is a big killer on this and any transmission for that matter. I have an aftermarket cooler installed and plan on installing a temp gauge to tell how i'm doing while driving under load. I know that when the transmission torque converter lockup cluch doesn't engage at highway speeds it generates excessive heat. I've always had problems with the lock-up clutch not engaging right and plan to bypass it to have control over it with a toggle switch soon. I was just planning on going on a couple short trip with my new (to me) camper and didn't want to smoke the transmission because the lock-up clutch didn't engage. Also where would be the best place to install the temp sending unit? In the pan, or the cooler line, or somewhere totally different? Thanks!

 

Mine runs 125-150 with a cooler , the pan is a good place for the temp sending unit , you will have to have a bung welded to it , or if you use an aftermarket alum pan there thick enough to drill & tapp ....Lew

 

Well, your in luck because I have some good info for you on this. Just this morning I dropped off my '96 F-250 460 to have a complete rebuild done on the tranny and here's the deal. The guy doing my rebuild specializes in Ford and esp the E4OD. I asked him this very question this morning and here is what he told me. Don't worry about the temp and don't get a gauge for it because all you will do is worry yourself. Don't install an aftermarket cooler on it because the factory does more than enough. Just drive it normally and don't romp on it. The engine computer has a safety measure that will downkick the motor and tranny if it gets too hot...basically, you can't burn it up unless you really try driving the **** out of it after that process. If ya really wanna spend the money, go ahead, but your just wasting it. Now this is coming from a tranny mechanic who I know and could have made a lot of money from me off of me for his shop without me questioning. He has owned countless 3/4 ton fords with the E4OD and works on them almost everyday, so he knows these transmissions inside and out very well. I hope this helps you. Oh, and keep it out of OD when driving around town, that keeps the heat down big time.

 

He just wan'ts more work , thats why he says not to put a cooler or gauge on them . Heat will kill a trany fast , a cooler & gauge are a good choice , then you know when you have a problem before it burns up ....Lew

 

I thought for some reason that they would run warmer than that but that sounds pretty cool. Yeah i'm a pretty firm believer in a trans cooler. I do have the stock deep pan so my options are to find a bung (probably 1/4" npt) and weld it or opt for the aluminum one. The aluminum one should also help in cooling correct? Do they make finned pans like they do for the diff covers? Thanks Lew.

 

The extra fluid & the cooling fins should help some , & they have drain plugs ....

 

I can't tell you how hot is too hot but I can confirm that mine runs 125 on average. I think the highest I've seen is in the 150s crossing the mountains in western Maryland.

 

Hearing what you guys are saying, 120-150 seems like a pretty good temp range to stick with. I found some pretty cool pans on Summit racing already setup for a temp gauge. Some are up to 7.5 extra quarts. I'm not sure if I need that much more tranny fluid because it would kill me when I do a fluid change. Thank you guys for all your help! Do you have any ideas on what kind of gauge to get? Mechanical vs. electrical? I've only used mechanical but i'm not sure I could route one of the probes that far and don't want to punch a hole in the floor. Would electrical be better suited for the application? I was thinking about putting the gauge on the A-pillar. Thanks!

 

Keep temp under 200* . that is really easy to do. A shift kit will also help the trans last longer. the quicker firmer shifts mean less clutch disk slippage.. Also a 3 position switch for that converter lockup works good. than u will have "stock" "unlocked" and
"locked"

 

Sorry, I can't help you with that. Mines a ScanGaugeII. That's about the only thing that's good about OBD2 on my 96.

 

Also, there is a plug in the driver side of the trans you can take out, and install a sender for a electric guage, so you dont have it hangin down in the bottom of the pan.

EDIT:

 

Thanks for the info! I don't forsee having a problem keeping it under 200* hearing the normal range now. My "stock" lockup doesn't function like I would want it to. I am just going to put it to a locked/unlocked option. Around town it will stay unlocked but while i'm on the interstate (hauling the bikes or the camper) i'll lock it up. Thanks!

 

Do you know what the plug goes to? Maybe a pressure port or something like that? Would this be a good place to take a temp as opposed to the temp of the physical fluid?

 

I use an autometer electric , put it in the side of the pan not the bottom ....Lew

 

The port is a pressure port I think. there is fluid flowing through it when its running though, so its a good place. Also, From my experiance, if you start messin with how/when the converter locks up, it will make the trans shift alot harder after a wile because it will sense there is a issue and go into "failsafe" mode.. I know because I have a switch and have left it in the "unlock" position by accedent..