Hi guys and gals,
I have a 1999 4x4 EB Expedition with 39K miles. Normal driving, 4 wheeling everyonce in a while, mostly at the beach.
I just discovered this forum.I found reading and searching for what, I found, are common problems with this vehicles.

Problems so far AFTER warranty expired:
- Rear wiper, fixed by "forcing manually"
- Ajar light on, fixed by applying "oil to contacts"
- Alignment way off, fixed by stealership with "camber kit" (I think they got me on that one) since it was the only way they could fixed it. Is that correct?
- Rear passenger door would not open with remote. I removed the door cover and traced the problem to a bad solenoid. How do I remove the solenoid?. It seem to be a rivet holding it to the door frame. Does the new part come with that rivet?
I had a few other minor problems before the warranty expired, most of them were solved except for the alignment issue.
Thanks in advance for any info and looking forward to be an active participant in this forum.
J.H.

 

Like the window lift motors you must drill the rivet out and use a bolt and locknut for the replacement unit. Sounds as though you have most of the other kinks worked out of the truck. Be sure to rinse well the underside of your truck after your beach excursions. The corrosive effects of salt water will take out your undercarrage in short order if not counteracted. There is a brushless car/truck wash in Daytona Beach that is my first stop after I leave the sand.

 

- Alignment way off, fixed by stealership with "camber kit" (I think they got me on that one) since it was the only way they could fixed it. Is that correct?

My local Goodyear repair place told me the same thing. Ford scimped on the design by basically laying the axle on the frame using markings on the frame to line it up. If they installed it right it's fine, if it's off just a bit you need the kit installed. Goodyear told me mine was fine, so at least they were honest about it, refreshing isn't it???

It has something to do with the alignment, they can't adjust something without the kit (toe in-out, caster/camber, something like that).

The guys at Goodyear have been much more helpful than the Ford dealership, they even questioned me on my request to replace the rear tranny oil, saying it wasn't due for another 25,000 miles! They could have just done it and pocketed the money but they didn't, another plus with me.

Hope this helps!

Tim

 

For the benefit of future generations I will describe what I did to replace it. They may be an easier way but remember, I am a DIY'er.
- Door lock actuator part # F75Z-7826594-AA from Ford dealer $26.xx. You can get it on line for $20.xx.
- Tools needed: Sockets, flat head and philips screwdriver, which I already had. I had to buy a T27 start socket to remove the door lock. This will make the whole task a LOT easier.

Remove the inner door skin. I did not have to disconnect the battery. Disconnect two electrical connections inside the door. One for the actuator and one for interior lights. The new actuator comes complete with the bracket to secure to the door frame. However, since I did not have the HUGE rivet gunthat is needed I decided to re-use the old bracket. Very carefully pry off the sides of the old actuator and (also the new one) from the bracket. When you get the new actuator, you will see what I am talking about. Once it is loose, remove the door handle and door lock. You will then manipulate the old actuator out of the door lock mechanism. Replace with the new one. Put everything back in reverse order, making sure everything is working. Put the inner door skin back on. You are done.
Dealer was going to charge me $120 + tax.
I hope this helps somebody!

 

For the benefit of future generations I will describe what I did to replace it. They may be an easier way but remember, I am a DIY'er.
- Door lock actuator part # F75Z-7826594-AA from Ford dealer $26.xx. You can get it on line for $20.xx.
- Tools needed: Sockets, flat head and philips screwdriver, which I already had. I had to buy a T27 start socket to remove the door lock. This will make the whole task a LOT easier.
Remove the inner door skin. I did not have to disconnect the battery. Disconnect two electrical connections inside the door. One for the actuator and one for interior lights. The new actuator comes complete with the bracket to secure to the door frame. However, since I did not have the HUGE rivet gunthat is needed I decided to re-use the old bracket. Very carefully pry off the sides of the old actuator and (also the new one) from the bracket. When you get the new actuator, you will see what I am talking about. Once it is loose, remove the door handle and door lock. You will then manipulate the old actuator out of the door lock mechanism. Replace with the new one. Put everything back in reverse order, making sure everything is working. Put the inner door skin back on. You are done.
Dealer was going to charge me $120 + tax.
I hope this helps somebody!