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Gooseneck hitch

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Old May 10, 2010 | 02:00 PM
  #1  
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From: Greenbrier, TN
Gooseneck hitch

I just recently purchased a 09 F350, less than 5k, crew cab, swb, srw, 4x4, 6" lift, 37" Toyo's. I was thinking of getting the gooseneck hitch installed but I didn't know if the lift would affect the hook-up. Does anyone have my similar set-up to give an opinion?
 
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Old May 10, 2010 | 02:45 PM
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Well how heavy are you expecting to tow with a setup like that? You're not going to be dragging around a 10k stock trailer with your setup, so is it a matter of "I have a gooseneck trailer and I don't want to replace it" or "I think the hitch might be used at some point in the future"?

Unless you have the trailer already, I'd save the $400 on the B&W turnover ball (might as well get the good stuff if you decide to do it) and look at a bumper pull setup for whatever you need to tow. If you're really planning on pulling a lot of weight with the truck, you might need to strip some of the toys off and make it workable. Unless you've regeared, your tranny is going to get toasted trying to compensate for the larger tires, and the engine will be a dog, not constantly, but probably enough to be annoying. If you have the V8/V10, the engine needs higher RPMs to get the real power out anyways, so a regear is a good idea just to drive it around. If you have the 6.4L, a regear will get you some of the torque back that you lost.

If you already have the trailer, throw a peice of decently thick steel plate under the coupler and set that thing down in the bed, and see for yourself how the rails clear and how the equalizer on the rear springs is twisted. If the trailer is less than about 16' it might be tilted so bad that you can't really use it, I know couplers are adjustable to a point, but a 10-20* tilt on the deck means you'll have to strap pretty much everything down all the time.

This all being said, I know a guy with a chevy 2500 dmax who runs 37s and pulls a two horse gooseneck all over Texas, but the whole thing loaded weighs all of 4,000#. He won't quit whining about how much it bogs down on hills, but he traded down from a dodge dually with a Cummins, so he lost a lot more by ending up with higher gearing and bigger tires, kind of a double whammy, so his sensation of what ******* down is is definately skewed. His trailer has a pretty high neck and a long pin, so he clears the rails just fine.
 
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Old May 10, 2010 | 05:54 PM
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With that kind of lift you could just use it as a bumber pull.... Joking of course. Lifting a truck that sits as high as a superduty reduces the amount of work you want to do from the bed. I had a buddy that had 8" of lift. It looked sweet but lifting everything shoulder level to get it on the tail gate was plain worthless. Just my opinion. Ill take my 35" tires and workable height over 38" and non workable height.
 
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Old May 10, 2010 | 06:50 PM
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With a lift like that your going to limit the kinds of GN trailers that will clear the rails if any. If you can adjust it it will be so high you will be forcing all the weight to the rear axle of the trailer causing premature failure of the tires depending on the load.
 
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Old May 10, 2010 | 08:30 PM
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I'd also check if you are going to be ordering a trailer, if they offer a taller rise neck. I have seen several manufacturers' websites that list a taller neck to clear the toolboxes on utililty bed trucks.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 10:03 AM
  #6  
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Thanks for the replies, I think I'll stay w/ a bumper pull for now.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 10:49 AM
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I agree with what's been said above.

If you're going to keep using a bumper pull but have a heavy trailer you might consider getting a 2 1/2" hitch (off the F-350 DRW or similar).
 
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