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No start - then started?!?

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Old May 8, 2010 | 02:03 AM
  #1  
ech0sh4y's Avatar
ech0sh4y
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From: Oshkosh Wisconsin
No start - then started?!?

So I bought my truck a few months ago. Started great, but always seemed to have a rough idle (the tach never moves but you can hear it slightly). Tonight I got out of work and it was snowing (not normal for may). I figured ah what the heck I'll cycle the key two times, waiting for the WTS light to go out both times. Crank and crank and nothing. So I said OK maybe i need to change some glow plugs or the relay (it's not even that cold out). Cycled the key 2 more times. Cranked and it popped then just cranked. Ok I am starting to get worried, people are asking if i need help. (embarrassed). So i tried it again 2 more times nothing. Light would come on for a bit then go off, so I figured it was working and not a fuse issue/fuel-bowl heater issue.

Finally I did it again 2 more times (if it wouldn't start this time I'd call for a ride) and it started like normal it seemed, smoked a little bit but went away fairly quickly. I plan on doing an oil change and fuel filter change tomorrow to just be on the safe side ( not sure it's related). But what else should I be concerned with? glow-plugs/relay? CPS failing? It seemed to have the same amount of power and drove normal (minus my mystery noise posted in my other thread and minor idle issue).

Any thoughts would be helpful and much appreciated! Thanks for reading my book! =D
 
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Old May 8, 2010 | 07:41 AM
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From now on ignore the glow plug light turning off. The glow plugs will stay on up to 2 minutes if your system is working properly. Next time you want the glow plugs to warm things up more, just leave the key on for 30 seconds or so before trying to start.

Maybe the pop you heard was the glow plug relay clicking. I'd start by testing the relay out after your oil and filter change. For the rough idle I'd look into the new CPS that is floating around out there. The gray CPS from the recall is known to cause a rougher idle in some trucks.
 
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Old May 8, 2010 | 11:28 AM
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How do you test the GPR? As far as a new CPS you'd recommend going to the black one?
 
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Old May 8, 2010 | 07:01 PM
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Well it did it again this morning after a frost warning was in effect. I noticed today a lot of white smoke while cranking and trying to start. This time i waited 30 secs with key on cycles. I could hear what seemed to be the GPR click off.

Any one have any ideas or how do you test a GPR?
 
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Old May 8, 2010 | 08:09 PM
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You want the easy way or the more difficult way? Easy way is in the morning, or tonight it it's cold outside, grab a screwdriver and hold it across the 2 large posts on the GPR so you short them together. It will spark at first and it might get a little warm, but hold it there for 30 seconds, then get in and try and start your truck (ignore the glow plug light for this test and just start it like a gasser). If it fires right up, you need a new GPR.

Or you could grab a volt-meter and check for voltage. The large post with the rubber boot on it should have 12v (or your battery voltage). The other large post should show no power. Turn the key on (not start) and watch what voltage the 2nd post starts to show. A good GPR will show battery voltage on the other large post since that post is what energizes the glow plugs. If you have no or very low voltage on the 2nd large post, odds are your GPR is shot. There's a remote chance that you've got a ground signal issue, but typically replacing the GPR is a good idea at that point.
 
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