Charging Problem
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Charging Problem
69 F100 390 4spd
So i was driving home last night and it seemed like it started missing. But i didn't think anything of it because the carb needs to be rebuilt. But then it would miss so bad i could only run in 1st gear and it would backfire. Then my Tach quit working. Then it died. And it would just click like the solenoid was bad. So i had a friend come and pull me home. So when he was pulling me home i would let the clutch out to get it to start and it would just turn over but not start. So i went out this morning and jumped it and it started right up. Drove it around the yard for about 3 minutes and shut it off. And then it started clicking again. So i tryed jumping the solenoid and it still just clicked. The ALT indicator light has been on since i bought it but i didn' think anything of it since it was charging. When i was sitting there waiting for my buddy to get there i still had enough battery to listen to the radio and have the dome light on. So it's not like the battery was completly dead. So i'm thinking it's not the altenator. But could it be the voltage regulator???
<input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
So i was driving home last night and it seemed like it started missing. But i didn't think anything of it because the carb needs to be rebuilt. But then it would miss so bad i could only run in 1st gear and it would backfire. Then my Tach quit working. Then it died. And it would just click like the solenoid was bad. So i had a friend come and pull me home. So when he was pulling me home i would let the clutch out to get it to start and it would just turn over but not start. So i went out this morning and jumped it and it started right up. Drove it around the yard for about 3 minutes and shut it off. And then it started clicking again. So i tryed jumping the solenoid and it still just clicked. The ALT indicator light has been on since i bought it but i didn' think anything of it since it was charging. When i was sitting there waiting for my buddy to get there i still had enough battery to listen to the radio and have the dome light on. So it's not like the battery was completly dead. So i'm thinking it's not the altenator. But could it be the voltage regulator???
<input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,396
Likes: 4
From: Cupertino
Circle, from what you are describing, clearly you are not charging. Replace both the alternator and regulator together.
A nearly dead battery will play a radio or light a dome light. They only require an amp or two. But that battery cannot supply the hundred amps needed by the starter.
There are ways to determine whether the alternator is at fault but since regulators are so cheap you would be well advised to replace both.
Semper Fi
A nearly dead battery will play a radio or light a dome light. They only require an amp or two. But that battery cannot supply the hundred amps needed by the starter.
There are ways to determine whether the alternator is at fault but since regulators are so cheap you would be well advised to replace both.
Semper Fi
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,338
Likes: 6
From: UPSTATE NY
a battery that wont charge and is toast is one thing, a dead battery is another, but a dead alternator will leave you stranded. when running you should have at least around 14 volts at the terminals, plus indicator on the dash should be normal. the truck is capable of running the ignition system off of a battery alone, until the battery dies and then you are just screwed. and it wont matter how hard you try to use jumper cables, if you have a dead alternator you will be stuck. i think voltage regulators for these are like 10 bucks. i have replaced mine.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
so i now charged the battery full and let it idle and drove it around the yard. It started fine, ran fine, and stayed running... I dunno what to think. Is it possible to kill these if the coil gets wet. it was raining that night it died on me.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 7
From: Gainesville, GA
Connect your meter to the battery and it should read about 14v at about 2000rpm. If not your charging system is not working. If it were me and your truck is not a restored one get a one wire alternator and throw the regulator away. I did this to mine 20 years ago.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
No, I don't think so. that would not affect the starter's behavior.
It sounds very much like a charging problem. A fully charged battery could easily get you by for a short drive, and that is likely what's going on. If you kept going, I'm sure you would have a repeat performance on the side of the road.
Like what everyone is saying, get a voltmeter or fluke meter and check voltage at the battery. You should have around 12V (12.6V? I forget) with the engine off. Then, fire it up, hold it around 1500 or 2000 RPM, and check voltage again. You should have more than the 12.? you started with and less than 14. Or you could just pull the alternator and have it tested.
It sounds very much like a charging problem. A fully charged battery could easily get you by for a short drive, and that is likely what's going on. If you kept going, I'm sure you would have a repeat performance on the side of the road.
Like what everyone is saying, get a voltmeter or fluke meter and check voltage at the battery. You should have around 12V (12.6V? I forget) with the engine off. Then, fire it up, hold it around 1500 or 2000 RPM, and check voltage again. You should have more than the 12.? you started with and less than 14. Or you could just pull the alternator and have it tested.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
12valveEx
Excursion - King of SUVs
10
Aug 16, 2013 08:24 PM
ADoherty
Electrical Systems/Wiring
8
Aug 29, 2012 06:05 PM
TwistedPiston
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
1
Jan 29, 2012 07:21 AM
