Ok this weekend I'm finally going to try and solve a few problems. 1. eleminate the air pump (I cant find an after market pully so I was gunna disconnect everything and take the hose on it that blow out air and just run them from the pump into the exhaust, which is free flow straight back to a glass pack then straight out the back. 2. to solve a problem I've been having with it running rich if its been along time(hours) since I started it usually itll turn over an fire up, after warming up and sitting for maybe 10-30min when I try to start it it just spins til it starts to fire up but its real rought for about 5-10 sec then itll level out, if I hold the pedal to the floor when trying to start it. it doesnt fire right up but alot faster than if not so I was going to put this fuel pressure regulator on that I got from the junk yard(hope its good lookes like it had just been put on all clean an stuff) and since I really cant afford it I was going to just clean my fuel injectors and try reusing them. 3. what is the difference between the 300 injectors and the 302 injectors from everything I've been hearing there is no difference and no point in me trying to put them on my motor. Also taking this smog pump crap off an running it like I want to with that cause me any problems with my computer? like should everything still run fine if not better? thats what im going. Im also porting an polishing the head when I pull it off. Basically Im looking to get a little more power from it with very little money. Thanks for any info you all can toss me.

 

Consensus seems to be removing the air pump won't cause any computer issues. Can you describe the second issue a little better? What year, etc.

 

Re-engineering by just removing stuff doesn't solve running issues. Since it is EFI, pull the codes or have that done and you will be on the way to fixing whatever ails it.

 

its a 1988 F150 2wd 5spd mazda tranny with the 3.08 gears (axel code 18)

 

ok I pulled the codes and their meaning or w/e per manual....

KOEO Codes
1. 67 - code doesnt show in haynes....
2. 84 - code also do not show in hayes....

Continuous Codes
1. 33 - wow also not in manual
2. 41 - no sensor switching detected?

Engine running codes
1. 41 - above
2. 33 - above
3. 25 - No response or little change in during dynamic response tests?

 

to my first post I was wanting to know if I block off everything on the block for the air pump and since I cant get a pully to bypass it.. would running its air out tubes to the exhaust work fine since I have a good free flowin exhaust, also what size tube should I use to attach them to the exhaust? Im going to be welding it so I can make whatever work... also would that help give the exhaust a deeper an louder sound? besides all that will doing that with the air pump help the truck to run better(at the moment I have a couple of hoses plugged up too which I believe now is bad.) Also a couple of other questions before I begin tomorrow on this project. I plan to port and polish my head I got a guy I used to work with that will loan me his 200$ set of tools for it and will show me what I need to know(keep in mind he has a 1.7 or 1.9L fiat that he has done the heads on himself an it runs around 9 in an 1/8). How much should I open them up(intake an exhaust ports)? Just would like to hear that from ford people an not a fiat racer. also what are the benefits of a 3 angle valve job and would it be worth it for me to get that done while I have the head off if its possible? any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

first off, please seperate using paragraphs...this is very hard to read.

second, what exactly wrong with the thermactor system (air pump)? u can remove everything assocciated with the air pump (hoses, silencer, etc) and just let the pump exhaust to under the hood. U will also need to plug the holes in the head. if nothing is wrong with the "smog" system then leave it alone. I disconnected mine because the tube rotted out going from the pump to the cat, then i added headers and it all went to hell from there

third, u are NOT ready to touch the head. head over to www dot fordsix dot com and read, read and read some more about porting. if i was u, before i started anything i would verify the head is a good candiate for any porting. i only say u are not ready because removing to much material from the wrong spots will actually be going backwards. before i was going to P/P my spare 300 head (project scrapped due to a huge crack) i spent about a month reading and asking in depth questions.

as for the codes, do a system reset (disconnect the negative battery cable for 15 minutes and drive for a while so the PCM will re-learn). then check the codes when they appear. have u checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail? and 300 injecters are #14s and 302s are #19s. they wont interchange without an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. the 300 runs at a high fuel pressure (45-60 psi) and running the #19 injectors at this pressure will cause driveability issues.

 

Ok so say I didnt get to that message until today and have already pulled the head borrowed the tools an been porting an polishing the runners and about to start on the chambers? I believe I should be good though I've spent a good amound of time on the phone with a local machine shop that have been very helpful.

Im gasket matching the runners and plan on watching a couple more videos on you tube but im pretty sure I can do it with out screwing it up. Just keep the valve chambers all about the same and make sure to smooth it to where the air can flow un-restricted in the direction its supposed to. Correct?

I have run fuel psi tests before and they came back to the regulator or a fuel injector problem. Thats the way I remeber it atleast it was a while back when I did it. To get to the fuel rail an the fpr I had to pull the intake an smog pump crap anyways so why not. As for the tubes going into the block I took care of them with a little 115v 50amp arc welder / carbon arc torch and some 6013 1/16 rods.

With the #19? injectors what is an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and would I beable to find one at a local parts store or is that something I will have to order from somewhere online?

About the smog pump... I personally hate it and wish I could just shorten my belt an byass it all together because to my knowledge fewer pullys shorter belt = more power. Unfortunately I cant just shorten the belt for it when I bypass it with the belt it hits the altenatory mounting bolts

 

DO NOT GRIND YOUR CHAMBERS!

Your engine will run like crap!
You can get rid of the smog pump but you will have to find a way to make the pully work. If there is nothing wrong with it dont mess with it.

33-EGR did not open. OR, EVP out of range.
41-EGO or HEGO was lean.
67-Air conditioner input was high.
84-EGRV OR, EVR circuit failure.

Those are your codes. Fix them before you do somthing stupid like porting.

EGRV means Exhaust gas return vent.
EGR means Exhaust gas return.
EGO or HEGO are your O2 sensors.
EVR is a synonom for EGR.
EVP is the sensor that tells the computer the EGR vavles position.

You can solve your entire proboblom by purchasing a new EGR/EVP assembly. They cost about $120.

 

Sorry to sound like such an idiot but I don't have often access to a computer.

Ok if they underlined bold section of quote would be those lines on the smog pump clogged what I am doing will fix that like a dingle berry I half *** bypassed it before I now plan to leave the vacuum on the smog pump open maybe with some sort of filter and reroute the exhaust out into my exhaust pipe by welding it in there.

I have already replaced the EGR and sensor with parts from car quest not advance. So I dont think those are it. Could the plugged up crap I have going on now be causing those codes?

Also I have already ported the runners (manifold mount ups) and the valve chambers. Though to my surprise when I took it to the most recommended guy in town he said I did a pretty good job on it, except that I could open up the combustion chamber itself on the valve side but that I need to make sure how far in the water jackets are before I do that. Other than that he said I did a good job.

If you could give me information pertaining to the cumbustion chamber porting please do so, sorry to sound as if I have ignored everything you said I just never see it until its too late. I just happen to have good friends that refer me around town and I can usually get good advice over the phone I just know that on here is Ford specalist type people, as in those are the only trucks you like to work on or whatever so I respect your opinions and advice thank you.

 

one last thing the machine work guy told me that if I couldnt find the cumbustion chamber information or if you say not to I wont and will just let him do the 3 angle valve job an slap it back together. I only ported the inside of the valve chambers nothing more and didnt hit the seats though he is going to be cutting them anyways. thanks again.

 

If you change your heads CC significantly you will change a "known" parameter in the engines computer. 1-2 CC is all that is needed to ruin a EEC-IV engine.
Check the EGR tube for leaks or clogging. Look at your wires are they worn out or burnt?

 

ok thats not good, I am pretty sure I opened it more than 1-2 cc, so how bad will that hoe my computer? Do they make chips or anything for the pcm that I could modify it so it will run right or should I just go ahead and switch to carburated now that I have gone to far? If so should I just go ahead and find out how far I can open the combustion chamber part of it and do the valve job too?

Also my wires going to my O2 sensors were cut/torn apart so I reconnected them and may need a new sensor to but Im worried now about how its going to run since I opened it up.

I guess now just let me know what my best option is to get the little extra performance I was looking for and keep my truck running smooth an not like crap. I am down to try programming the computer I know some computer people if that is possible. Again thanks for all your help.

 

They make a programers for them. They start at about $800 and go up from there.

Try it, it may run ok? My sugestion is go get a new head and start over. Porting the exhaust and intake will do you no harm. The combustion chamber on any EFI engine is generaly a no-no. Oh yeah the 4.9 EFI head is EFI specific. I belive that 87-95 are the same. 96 Is kinda a funny bird by itself.

 

Hang on I think Im good homie. The only porting I've done is to the intake and exhaust runners and chambers I have'nt touched the combustion chamber yet. The guy at the machine shop suggested it to me I was scared to mess with it not knowing that much about the process to begin with. I dont believe I told him about the EFI though.

Also will a 3 angle valve job hurt it any? I hope not because it is pending the work right now, he said he could get to it by the end of this week. I am going to try and stay connected to get your opinions, thanks for the advice an keep it coming I like to learn....even though most of the time its the hard way.