Also the codes I mentioned before where the things I replied with the cause of the codes? The smog pump being half-azz bypassed an plugged, the o2 sensor wires cut, and not sure on the egr, its brand new with a new sensor on it(still need to check wires and vacuum).

Is there somewhere I can get a vacuum diagram for my truck to make sure its all right or should haynes manual have a good enough one?

Now sinse I cant take the smog pump out should I leave the vacuum to it wide open with maybe a filter of some sort on it, and run the exhaust into my exhaust? Also with the exhaust do yall think it would sound good if I with the EFI manifolds ran true duals with 2" pipe instead of the 2 1/2" pipe with glass packs on the end an run both straight out the back on the same side, or should I leave it like it is with the y into single 2 1/2" and put headers on it with a glass pack at the back end?

Is there anything else I can do now with the intake to increase power before I put it back to gether without messing with my computer? I cleaned the cylinder heads with a rag and carb cleaner but I want to clean them better I think any suggestions?

Also I snagged some 302 injectors from a local junk yard and I was wanting to make sure they would be good for my truck with the EFI? They are the same injectors the only difference is the ones on my truck(300) have a single little jet it seems, and the 302 ones have like 3 or 4 little spray holes, could I put those in without my computer going nuts?

I am wanting to find an H7 code rear axel(limited slip 3.31 gears in it) I think with that motor having the low-end power it does and with what I've done if it runs better I think those gears would be good for mileage around town. Still being low enough with the motor to where I could stomp it in first an get it to boil them instead of hopping. Do you believe that those gears would be good for me? Im not looking to tow alot, I might pull a trailer with a car or a load of scrap metal here an there thats it. I really want to be able to show off an ride out.

Sorry to ask so many questions I have never really dealt with performance on a vehicle just keepin it running so Im not sure what I can an can not do being my 300 is EFI, and I would like to keep the gas mileage reasonable. Thanks for any and all the help and advice you all give.

o one last thing with the cumbustion chamber should I atleast smooth the edges and maybe with some sort of tool try to clean them up an smooth the inside of it too? Just so long as I dont open it up any I should be good right? I hope so. again thank you...

 

I though you ment the combustion chambers. I dont know what you mean by "chambers".
Porting the intake and exhaust runners a bit will do no harm as long as one does not go hog wild.

A three angle is a good idea why the head is off. I generaly also plane the head flat also why it is off. That is my standard procedure anytime the head is off. DONT "MILL" THE HEAD! only plane it flat.

 

So is everything else about my codes and stuff correct? And what do you mean by flat planing as opposed to milling because the guy I'm taking it to, im really not sure what process he'd use. I'll be sure to tell him not to mill it. Is there anything else I should do while I have the head off to help with performance and or gas milage? Also I was curious as to how to get a good sounding exhaust system, does anyone know what I could do to make my exhaust sound better (a deeper growl). Currently have stock efi manifolds with stock system except I cut the cadalytic converter out and replaced with a straight pipe in going back to a blast pack (not sure brand or type), running straight out rather than curving around the tires such as stock. I put a dual (single) exhaust tip.

 

By chambers I meant the section under the valves where I pulled the valves and port and polish, I did all of them equally. Took off maybe 3/32th to a 1/16th of an inch. Basically I cleaned it up and evened it out, it looked like it already had guidelines for me as to where I could go. So I went to those and stopped, looked like I could go farther but I didn't wanna mess anything up. Also with the runners where the manifold folds up to I port and polished those to gasket size, most are all the same size. Should I clean the combustion chamber and smooth it before he does the valve job? Would that be ok for my EFI, or would that be too much with all I've already done?

On a seperate note before I put everything together, should I port the manifolds too or should I leave them alone? Also what should I use to clean the cylinders inside my motor? I tried to use a drimal with a brass bristle brush on the end of it but I'm afraid that wasn't a good idea, it cleaned it up a little but didn't pull all the varnish off the top. What should I use to clean those off?

 

You use a ridge reamer and a hone to clean the cylinders. You should pull the pistons to do that though.

Once again dont grind the inside of the combustion chamber. Leave it alone. Do I got to take your dremmel away?

Milling is the delibriate taking of material off of a cylinder head or block to lower the deck hight and raise the CR. Change the CR on a EFI engine and you are going tro have a bad day.

Planing is just a scratch cut that brings the head flat again for propper gasket sealup.

 

ooooo ok the guy told me that milling was the same thing as flat planing. Is that something I could do myself? Does'nt really sound like it.

Yeah you might need to take it away I'm sure Im going to use it for something else in this prosses.

I guess I should go ahead an pull the pistons I have had a low-end knock for awhile now just have'nt felt like pulling the pan an all but since I've gone this far I might as well go all the way.

 

You sure you got a knock. The 300 has a tendincy to develop lifter tics.

Planing as I said is just a scratch cut to bring it square. Milling is a heavy cut designed to reduce the CC of the chamber or remove major imperfections. Milling is called milling because you use a mill to remove the material. Planing is called planing because you use a plane (horizontal grinding machine) planes the head parellel.

If you are going to pull the pistions I would check the bore and then debate either a re-ring or a rebuild.

 

so should I tell this guy not to machine my head and use an angle grinder with a flapper disc and a straight edge to even it myself?

also should I pull the crank an let the automotive class next door sneak it in an have the teacher help them mic it?

Really now Im to the point where I need to get it back together like yesterday an the guy hasnt started the head yet. He says he's been doing this for years an this an that an he's never had a problem with resurfacing a head and it messing up the efi.

you guys work on these things all day everyday he just does machine work.... So let me know for sure if he machines it an it ****s my computer up im ****ed, if I dont get it resurfaced which I really dont see it needing to be. but get back to me quick cuz its gettin close to the end of the week. he will be starting on it soon. So I need to know whether to tell him not to surface it that Ill do that myself or not.

 

Let him resurface it you will be fine.
I am an industrial mechanic at a sugar factory. Ive had the head off a 300 about twice. I have had the heads off of probobly 50 engines in my lifetime, so I think I can tell you how this is done.
DO NOT GRIND ON YOUR OWN HEAD! Man you got some crazy ideas.

 

YOU ARE F===KING IT UP BIG TIME GOOD LUCK GETTING IT GOING AGAIN HAVE FUN YOU'LL NEED A NEW ENGINE AFTER ALL

 

Just skimming through the posts so far I see lean codes, o2 sensor codes, o2 sensor wires cut, need to check vacuum and egr...all the work you do on the engine will be for nothing if you don't fix the efi set up now. Are you keeping the efi? I think it's a speed density set-up and will not compensate for more air/fuel needed by a better breathing engine(putting on bigger injectors will not work on speed density learned that the hard way back in my 5.0 stang days) OH and btw if the 02 sensor wires are cut your WILL HAVE TO SOLDER THEM...learned that the hard way to lol. Good luck

 

yeah I wasnt going to grind it myself, he resurfaced it said it was off .00060 of an inch. other than that he said everything on it went smooth an that I did pretty good for what I did not knowing anything going in.

 

First off you meant well, not will. Second no I'm not and I listen perfectly fine when I am asking advice. Sometimes like I said before I dont get to hear to often so I take the advice of people around me(mechanics and machinist.) So far from what I've done it will run... Maybe the fuel injection things werent the greatest idea and maybe I should have done more research into it... worse worse I will have to get a fab'd intake an put a carb on it which I have access to I just didnt want to do that before now it seems like it would be smarter to dump the efi bs an put a carb on it. Thnx for the support, and when I get it running I'll be sure to video it an post it for you.

 

He has some preaty damn acurate equipment if he can read six tenths of a thousandth. You sure he didint mean six thousandths?

You will still need to fix the EGR probloms. Good luck, I hope it runs good for you.

 

1) I would say my spelling is the leased of your worries dude