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I used to use anti-seize very sparingly on spark plugs knowing it affected torque ratings. However after attending a NGK spark plug coarse and learning about the nickle plating on some versions of plug's I stopped the practice.
I still use nickle anti-seize on my 05 Mustangs two-piece plug's as per Ford's tsb directions. On the plug's barrel/sleeve only, not the threads.
I stand corrected Lime1GT. Thanks for the info. I personally do not use a torque wrench because I have been turning wrenches for almost 50 years now and have a gret deal of feel for how tight things are and if the threads are stretching or not. The only time I use a torque wrench is for heads or other places where the fasteners have to be tightened in stages.
I'm an A&P mechanic, arn't you glad we use Tq Wr on the planes you fly in, no matter how many yrs experience we have. A 'calibrated' elbow doesn't cut it.
May I ask what the TQ is? I am about ready to change the plugs out on my wife's '04 5.4 Expy.
I'm an A&P mechanic, arn't you glad we use Tq Wr on the planes you fly in, no matter how many yrs experience we have. A 'calibrated' elbow doesn't cut it.
May I ask what the TQ is? I am about ready to change the plugs out on my wife's '04 5.4 Expy.
My manual only goes to 2002 and the torque specified is 13 lb. ft. for the 4.6 and the 5.4 16 valve engines. I always use an in. lbs. torque wrench for plugs as my ft. lb. wrench won't go that low.
My manual only goes to 2002 and the torque specified is 13 lb. ft. for the 4.6 and the 5.4 16 valve engines. I always use an in. lbs. torque wrench for plugs as my ft. lb. wrench won't go that low.
Next time I work on an airplane I will use a torque wrench but until I see an error in my ways I will continue with what i know works. An automobile is not that life threatening.
After 50 years of working on industrial machinery I've got a pretty good feel.
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