Does anyone have a source or solution for a replacement socket for the parking light so that I can run turn signals? I have a 51 F1 and I do not need to buy the entire assembly but the 2-wire pigtails don't work in the single wire socket. Thanks, Steve

 

For my 49 I just went to the local part store and got them right off the shelf. On my 49 the park light socket was just pressed into the housing. I was able to push it out and push in the 2 wire socket assy. Sometimes you'll see the new 2 wire socket assy with the little metal fingers and a flange that just snaps into the hole left behind from removing the single wire socket.

Something like this;


Here are several others;
Dorman Products - Electrical - Sockets - Lighting - 2 Wire

Bobby

 

I did the exact same thing as Bobby on my '52. If my memory is right, I believe that the double filament socket and bulb assemply was a little longer than the original so I tried to get the bouble filament socket to sit in as deep into the housing as I could.

Fred

 

That's right Fred AND the double filiment bulb is longer too. So you have to be sure and really get them in good or they will burn your lenses!

 

Does this work on 57's? I'm trying everything I can to get this socket out, but it won't budge. It's to the point where I pretty much need a new socket anyway now. I've tried pulling it out with pliers, twisting it, pulling off the rubber from behind and trying to hammer it out with a screw driver. Any help would be great.

 

If it's just pressed in like the 48-52s, put it in a vice and use a socket slightly smaller in diameter and just press it out with the jaws of the vice. I'm not sure if the 57 sockets are pressed in or not...but probably so.

 

I've had a single wire contact and single filament bulb in my parking lights (front) and the turn signal wires hooked up to both. This set up was working fine until I went to check on them recently while getting my truck roadworthy again.

The contact in one of the sockets was all rusted and the other was rusty, but still working. I decided that I'll replace both with new single wire contacts. I received the new single wire contacts today and installed them into the existing parking lamp assembly after cleaning out the rust. I also bought new 6v single filament bulbs, just like the old ones that were in there.

After the installation, when the light switch is set to running lights (half way out), only the rear running lights are lit. The front ones are not. Then when I turn on the turn signals, the turn signals work in the front (and rear).

My question is, why did my previous set up work with the single wire contact and the single wire contact, but when I replaced it with new, only the turn signals work?

I was thinking about ordering this, POD at CSK Auto, and installing it in place of the single contact bulbs. This means that I'll need to get the correct dual filament bulb as well. However, since there are two wires now, does one connect to the parking lights and the other to the turn signal wire coming from my SignalStat turn signal switch? Does it matter which wire from the dual wire contact is attached to the running light and turn signal wires?

 

Ah lots of questions.

Of course I can't be 100% certain not being there to see it, but the earlier set up probably had your parking light wire and signal light wire spliced together. The only problem that would present you would be if you tried to use your signal light with the headlight switch half way out. Now it's probably wired with the parking light wire not connected.

The Parking Lights recieve power out of the headlight switch and the signal lights from the brake light circuit through the signal switch and never the two should meet.

I couldn't get your link to show me your kit, but I'm assuming it's a double contact twin filiment type socket, bulb.

Just like in the back you want your parkling lights to be the dimmer of the two and the signal to be the brighter. You can either test which wire leads to the brighter filiment (usually the taller one) by grounding out the socket with a test lead and touching each wire with power - it should be pretty noticible. You can do that in the truck for that matter.

When you wire those, use bullet connectors so you can flip flop them if necessary.

And just in case you need a picture, this may help with the flow. The signal light switch I used to draw this up is a 7 wire "Everlasting" type:

 

Thanks for the help, Julie. I have your diagram saved from prior posts.

I just don't understand why it doesn't work now since all I did was replace the socket wire and connected the one wire to the only wire coming out to each parking lamp assembly.

I'll have to go through the wiring leading to the park lamps to see where the issue is. At least I know that the current wires going to the parking lamps are for the turn signals. I'll just need to find the wires from the truck going into the park lamps and connect them.

 

It's VOODOO!

Sorry I can't give you a better answer. I'd probably have to see it to figure it out!

 

The sockets on my 52 were spot-welded to the assembly, very small welds that popped apart by sticking a screwdriver in between. If the joint between the new tube and the assembly gets corroded, or the inside of the socket gets corroded, you won't get grounding, I presume that's why they spot-welded. Ilya, if the "ears" on the bulb don't ground you get nada; but sometimes one filament will ground thru the other and work. Kinda sounds like what you're seeing.

 

I cleaned out the socket before installing the new single wire contact. The old ones were very corroded.

I'm picking up the double wire contacts today and will reinstall and run new wires to see if I get the park lamps to work along with the turn signals.

 

Yep, Ross is right. Another thing that will happen is the socket base will get stuck a little crooked and only one of the two contacts will touch.

Ilya, I sent you the Electrical Drawings via regular e-mail. The Power point versions are lots clearer andyou can enlarge them. I thought that since you are being so motivated, they might come in handy If you don't get them let me know.

PS When you get your new sockets installed, test the parking lamps and signal lamps seperately. Don't try the signals with the parking lights on. If they are double wired, you'll burn out all your bulbs and possibly your signal and headlight switches from double powering.

Edit Note: Send me an e-mail at babbiebuddie@***.net I thought I had your "Mxxxl Kxxg" e-mail but I guess I don't - I know you've psoted it here a couple times too but the search says "Nope"

 

Thanks for the tip, Julie, and the offer. I sent you an email.