Oil Leak
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Oil Leak
Hey all...
v10, 1999, standard, 120K
I have tracked down a minor oil leak to the oil pan gasket. It is on the back of the oil pan where next to the transmission.
The crossmember is welded and the oil pan appears to be un removable without yanking or lifting up the engine.
1) Anyone solved this easily
2) is there a writeup on removing the engine and doing this?
Thanks ,
Matt
v10, 1999, standard, 120K
I have tracked down a minor oil leak to the oil pan gasket. It is on the back of the oil pan where next to the transmission.
The crossmember is welded and the oil pan appears to be un removable without yanking or lifting up the engine.
1) Anyone solved this easily
2) is there a writeup on removing the engine and doing this?
Thanks ,
Matt
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From: VA BCH, VA
I know it's not an easy fix, but pulling the transmission is something that would need to get done if you were going to pull the engine, so I would consider checking the rear main seal, as those are very prone to leaking over time and the leak would appear to be coming from the rear of the oil pan.
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oil leak
d-sailor
Yep, i thought of rear main too.
i had the xmission pulled , clutch replaced, flywheel resurfaced, xmission overhuauled, pilot bearing and rear main replaced 2 years ago.
took it back, they pulled the xmission again, and showed me it was not the rear main.
it is just annoying and since the engine is getting up in mileage, i am considering options.
Yep, i thought of rear main too.
i had the xmission pulled , clutch replaced, flywheel resurfaced, xmission overhuauled, pilot bearing and rear main replaced 2 years ago.
took it back, they pulled the xmission again, and showed me it was not the rear main.
it is just annoying and since the engine is getting up in mileage, i am considering options.
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From: VA BCH, VA
wishful thinking I guess...
If you have the time and some tools, it is definitely a do-able option to pull the engine yourself. I did mine in my driveway with a cherry picker and floor jack(neighbors weren't extremely happy).
If you have the time and some tools, it is definitely a do-able option to pull the engine yourself. I did mine in my driveway with a cherry picker and floor jack(neighbors weren't extremely happy).
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I thought someone was able to get the pan off without removing the engine.
The modulars are deep-skirt, not like a small-block or chevy where the mains are sticking way below the bottom of the block. I THINK - operative word THINK - if you drop the pan as far as it goes, jack the engine up as high as possible, and unbolt the oil pickup, you can possibly get the pan out. Putting it back, on the other hand. ?
The modulars are deep-skirt, not like a small-block or chevy where the mains are sticking way below the bottom of the block. I THINK - operative word THINK - if you drop the pan as far as it goes, jack the engine up as high as possible, and unbolt the oil pickup, you can possibly get the pan out. Putting it back, on the other hand. ?
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From: VA BCH, VA
Krewat has a point there.
Loose the fanshroud, coolant reservoir. Remove the throttle body(you'll get an extra 5in of play at the top), unbolt the 4 bolts holding the motormounts to the chassis, you should be able to lift the engine about 6in without the need to remove trans or anything else(might have missed a few small things, was trying to remember the reverse order of the reinstall). You may need to unclamp the fuel lines from the chassis, but just to get a little more movement, no disconnecting. When I had my engine out the exhaust pipes had plenty of room to move up and down, so that shouldn't be a problem.
I don't think you even need to get the pan all the way off, just give yourself some room to work, you should be able to bend(lightly) the new pan gasket(I've even got a spare new one I'll send you) to work it around and onto the pan, MIGHT even...MIGHT... be able to do it without needing to remove the uptake tube(forgot the name)
Loose the fanshroud, coolant reservoir. Remove the throttle body(you'll get an extra 5in of play at the top), unbolt the 4 bolts holding the motormounts to the chassis, you should be able to lift the engine about 6in without the need to remove trans or anything else(might have missed a few small things, was trying to remember the reverse order of the reinstall). You may need to unclamp the fuel lines from the chassis, but just to get a little more movement, no disconnecting. When I had my engine out the exhaust pipes had plenty of room to move up and down, so that shouldn't be a problem.
I don't think you even need to get the pan all the way off, just give yourself some room to work, you should be able to bend(lightly) the new pan gasket(I've even got a spare new one I'll send you) to work it around and onto the pan, MIGHT even...MIGHT... be able to do it without needing to remove the uptake tube(forgot the name)
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From: Long Island USA
Make sure you do something about the tranny dipstick too, if it's an automatic. When I did my headers, it got pushed up against the tranny tunnel/firewall as I jacked up the engine.
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