Is it me or is the price of lift kits and such OUTRAGEOUS...... Anyhow if you guys know of boneyard compatible parts or certain other things that can be done to combat the extreme costs of lifting a dent I wanted to make a place to have them available (HERE). I want to lift my truck higher and 9 times out of 10 I will fab my own parts if I cant find them cheap enough. Im looking for ideas and insight. Help me and other forum members by posting your suspension tricks.


Im not sure if some people dont know how to post pics or if they just dont have any. It seems there are not alot of pictures ever posted to go along with posts. So here is a quick step by step because Im a picture person and think it may help others..

HOW TO POST A PIC:
I use photobucket.com (very useful for all forums, craigslist, social media, all that kind of stuff)

Once signed up, Click the button for Upload, Locate the file (pic) you want to upload from your computer, save.

Now it will be saved on your photobucket account (At some point go to your Account Info and make you album "Private" that way random people cant look at ALL your pictures.)

How to actually post the pic online:
When you want to post a pic in a reply or topic....Click File in the top left corner of screen, then open a new window or new tab, then go to photobucket site in that window, log on, next to or under the pic you want to post online yo will see 4 different codes.....

Use the code that say IMG next to it (Copy and Paste that code into the Reply or Topic on the forum).

It should look somthing like this
[IMG]/i30.photobucket./albums/c346//DSC03272.jpg[/IMG]

Which Translates to this when you hit enter


I may have left a small step out but use your imagination I got the major items lol, I hope this helps get some new pics on here!!!!

 

im anxious to see what pops up in this thread

 

I just posted this in another thread.
Seems there are three threads on this very subject:

Since the 67 to 79 trucks use similar front suspension, the three inch wide front leafs from a 99 to 04 gas super duty can be used. This is typically an alternative for lifts greater than 6 inches since no manufacturer makes a kit, or a spring in this range, and is considered to be "custom".
For lifts equal to or less than 6 inches, the Superlift soft ride system seems to be adequate.

Although, others might be a little more into fine tuning suspensions, or looking for an advantage out on the trail, and perhaps even a better ride.
This is where a longer spring can be a benefit.
Stock 73 to 79 front leafs measure 53 inches and seem to be a little but stiff. This is partly due to the vertical shackle angle, and the springs inability to flex. Even the arched springs of the 73 to 77 truck have little movement, due in part to this shackle angle, as well as the clearance between the spring and the frame where the pivot is. Look at any stock highboy and you will see a mark or dent on the frame where the large end of the spring has hit the frame.
This is mainly due to the poor shackle design and length of the factory shackle. Its too darn short to offer any real kind of suspension movement during a normal suspension cycle.
End results are a poor ride, and very limited wheel travel.

To fix this, the answer is to increase the length of the shackle and repair the shackle angle. While many will not move the pivot forward, it is easier to use a longer spring to repair the shackle angle.
Step in the 99 to 04 SD spring. This spring is 54 inches (AVG) and moves the front axle forward up to 2 inches. All of this is a plus when dealing with our trucks.
Add a slightly longer shackle, and viola, a custom spring with proper geometry which result in a ride that is really second to none.

Now, not all springs are the same, so buying the best spring and keeping it affordable can be tough, but the results will be based upon the quality of the spring.
More leafs with thinner construction seem to flex and ride the best.

To install a SD spring under a dentside, one must either use the metric bolts that the bushings are designed around, or drill the bushings to accommodate a larger SAE fastener. I use a 3/4" bolt on the big end, and then drill the hanger to fit the larger bolt.
Since the shackles are custom made, the hole sizes are easy to drill into them.

The rest is fairly straight forward and regular spring replacement applies. Most springs are heavy and awkward, so having a friend to help is a good idea.

Rear springs are kind of a new thing, in that chebby rears seem to be the most plentiful and least expensive.
Highboys can use a 52" chebby rear spring and maintain the same hangers without moving a thing. This only requires some grinding on the bushings for the new spring so that it fits into the hangers of the ford truck. Smaller bolts are used in the chebby spring so once again, some work will have to be done to either fit the smaller fastener, or make the bushing larger to accept the larger bolt of the ford.
Not too many kit options for this era of truck, so once again, and alternative had to be found.
78/9 trucks use a spring pack that is wider, this 3 inch spring pack is probably far easier to find upgrades for, and many just build a pack using other leafs, or buy a spring that is designed for this vehicle. Many options including "All leaf" designs are available.

For either truck, the much longer 64 inch chebby leaf can also be fitted. Due to its increase in length both the front and rear hangers have to be moved. The front has to be moved about one entire hanger width, as does the rear. Since the 64 inch leaf uses a center pin that is almost dead center, both hangers can be moved equally, and the axle will remain centered. This just requires some simple measurement to get right.
Once again, the 78/9 truck uses a wider hanger, so the hangers will have to be changed as well. Highboys can still use the stock hangers.

For each truck custom hangers are available, and since chebby springs are being used, aftermarket chebby hangers can be used as well. Its a custom fabricated piece that is designed to fit this type of spring. This 64 inch rear spring is being installed under just about every vehicle out there, as long as it is using leafs.

Huge benefits in ride comfort, and hauling capacity can be expected.
This can be a very cost effective solution.
Unfortunately, this does require the owner to select his /her own shocks, but this too is a plus since most kits come with some terrible shocks.
This also requires the owner to make his / her own steering upgrades, and this also applies to brake lines. Again this not a bad thing since most kits come with some old technology that addresses the terrible factory steering.

This option requires some work, and requires the owner to fabricate some stuff, but the benefits are well worth the effort.

 

Nice post good info for the 250 owners...

 

Nobody Else has anything to add??? Tough crowd.

 

i know i would really like to know of some good cheap custom ways to lift my 1/2 ton...

 

75F350---I need to take some time off work and just follow you around for awhile absorbing your knowledge....I can only imagine the things I could learn from you without you even trying to teach me......

 

Rear shackle flips are almost free and common these days. The rear of the truck is lifted half as much as the spring eye is dropped since only one end of the spring is moved. It also alters the pinion angle which will require attention. However, if the fixed end of the spring is lowered an equal ammount the truck is lifted higher and the pinion angle remains the same. This helped me get 8-9 inches without tall blocks or ridiculously arched springs. The 1 inch block was added to help match the rear to the front since my entire suspension is from scratch.

 

I couldn't agree more.....

 

Did you buy these or Fab them yourself?

And thanks for the pics im probably goin to do this soon.



What should I be looking for when trying to set the rear pinion angle? I tend to fabricate my own parts when i need to so I may try and run different leafs out of a boneyard. Just not sure about where to set the pinion angle on lifted trucks yet. is there a certain degree or range of degrees to keep in mind?

 

I made those hangers myself. I sure hope no one is selling anything that hacky.

As for pinion angle, it can take some trial and error. Usually you want the same angle at each end of the shaft. This can mean adjusting the axle and/or the t-case. However, the shorter the shaft and the taller the truck the more extreme the angles become. It gets worse in short wheelbase trucks and divorced t-case applications like mine. This can necessitate a CV joint at the t-case end in which case the pinion needs to be pointed directly at the t-case yolk.