But this is with a twist. I have very specific needs.

I want a pad that grips like a **** cold (Rules out Hawk HPS)

Lots of dust does not bother me one bit ( no need for Ceramic this or that)

Needs to have a compund that restists fade when hauling down a 10,000 pound trailer when exiting the interstate.

Needs to NOT chew up rotors like the crap that is on my truck now. No idea what they are but they SUCK.

Used to be places that compared pads side by side Cold friction, hot friction, rotor wear. Tire rack changed thier format.

Driving race cars has made me very aware of brakes. Just can't find what I want for my truck.

 

How about a set of OEM (Motorcraft), from what people say here they've gotten better over the years. My rotors are shot and I'm going for the regular ole OEM, they been on the truck almost 7 years with about 3 brake pad changes from the local parts store and no problems pulling my 7,000 plus travel trailer.

 

Wish I could find some data on OEM.

I am a big fan of Porterfield and it appears they make a pad for the Super Duty trucks in the R4S compound. They work great on my cars. They meet my requirements except no data on stopping really big loads. I will probably give them a call tomorrow.

 

I just searched around too Joe and I even went on the FMSI but you have to log on an account, not sure if you want to go that route but here it is FMSI | Home The pads I been running are Duralast H-D for my SD and they been purdy good and like I said earlier, free lifetime replacement. Hope this helps a bit..

 

I'm going to go with EBC Yellow Stuff on the back and front next time I change them out. I don't care to much for the Hawk pads I'm running now.

http://www.amazon.com/EBC-Brakes-DP4...tive&carId=015

 

Yup I don't like the Hawks either. Last F150 I bought with them on ended up with severly worn rotors in less than 20,000 miles. and they really did not stop all that great.

Next set I bought with new rotors were Satisfied Light truck / SUV heavy duty. They did everything I wanted, but would occasionally build up with uneven pad deposit on the rotor if you did not use them hard.

Some pads like the ones just mentioned have to be hot and work best over 300 degrees.

 

Called Porterfield and got some good info, and what the lady did not know she put me on hold to ask the Engineer across the room. I have the R4S pads on the 914, the RX-8 and absolutely love them. Stop great cold very rotor friendly, this is my personal experience and smart guy said “won’t fade till 1000 degrees”. But has no real data on how they would perform on a Super Duty stopping 10,000 pound trailer.
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Called Hawk and talked to a guy that thought he knew everything. Looking at LTS or SD (severe Duty) answers were “Should be rotor friendly”, they will fade at 650 for LTS and 800 for SD. And he said both pads needed some heat to stop real good.
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Carbo tech does not make pads for my truck.
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So looks like once again I m going with the R4S pads. I will do some test with my pyrometer pulling the trailer and making big stops and report back with results.

 

I'd be interested in hearing those results. Will you be using them with OEM or aftermarket rotors?

 

I've got the EBC Yellowstuff and they are awesome. Meets all of your criteria you listed. They are pricey, but in this case you do get what you pay for.

 

How many miles on your EBC pads and which rotors did you go with?

Expensive is not an issue when it comes to brakes. However spending money with a bit of research doesn't hurt.

I think the EBC yellow pads are on the same level of performance as the Porterfield R4S. I should call them see what numbers they have. Drove a few autocross cars with EBC green and can't say I was impressed too much.

It's all about matching the pad to the temps you will experience. Friend of mine was just telling me he had some Porterfield R4E (endurance) and they sucked, only lasting 3 race days. He never said what his rotor temps were. I know he normally gets to 400 -500 driving hard from last time I looked at his race car. R4E doesn't even start to work till over that so yep he just wore through them.

 

Best pads you can get at any price with the performance demands you list in your first post is OEM.
They don't muck around and a lot of research is done to give the best all around performance.

 

Hmm, Anyone want to gather some data on thier OEM brakes?

Interesting and I may be WAY off in this regard. But my experience with OEM is " The best compromise to meet the bottom line $$$$$".

If stock exhaust is way better why do most people here have 4" pipes, Bilstien shocks, 6637 air filters and DP tuners.

I wouldn't give a plugged nickle for a OEM shock. not after riding on Bilstiens.

 

I only have my experience to offer.
1999 F550.
AT 100,000 miles I decided that it was time to redo the brake pads because they were starting to look a little thin to me.
Bought some pads, rotors and pulled the wheels.
They still had a lot of wear left to them, but I pull a 14k trailer with this truck and I didn't want any issues.
So new pads and rotors for the first time on this truck in 100,000 miles.
.
These brakes are so powerful that I can stop the truck and the trailer on a downhill slope without using the trailer brakes as demonstrated one time when I was out on a trip and the brake controller failed to do it's job one day.
I didn't want to mess with that success by trying out some aftermarket brand of pad that has different performance characteristics than what Ford has provided with thier pads.

 

Another thing that is worth considering is to my knowledge, the Ford pads are the only ones to be certified and tested to meet FMVSS standards for fade resistance. Sure an aftermarket pad 'may' work, but a lot of time and money goes into the cert. programs. I have the motorcraft 'super duty' pads installed and they aren't bad at all. What kind of data do you need? I have half worn rotors though, so if you were wanting fair unbiased results, all the data collected would have to be done on two identical trucks, with brand new rotors, brand new pads, all four new calipers, good brake lines, and perfect condition master cylinders. The reason I address these is with my half worn rotors, the data may seem to indicate they reach their fade limit quicker than a different pad. This would not be a fair comparison, because the rotor acts as a heat sink and with less material, the heat absorption and transfer efficiency goes down. There is much more that needs to be discussed to have unbiased results, but I feel like you get the point. Nonetheless, if you would still like some testing results done on factory calipers, motorcraft pads, and half worn rotors, let me know!

Oh, one more thing, you can get the Ford factory installed pads or the motorcraft super duty pads. Supposedly, the super duty pads are more suited for towing, but the jury is still out on that one. Both are priced the same.

 

Here's my wag. Ford has a parts division or affiliation called Motorcraft. It "meets" OE specs, but isn't OEM. If you ask the parts guy for the extream duty OEM pads, you should get a plain brown box with only a little sticker with part number. Inside you'll have all new hardware and a VERY good set of pads.

With the exception of the excellent Performance Friction 2-pcs rotors I run now, I've always run OEM rotors. I've worked on a fair number of Super Dutys and the OEM combo is a 1-2 knockout for work. Most of the trucks wound up with me because the contractors couldn't keep'em stopping. Granted, they continually over loaded the truck/trailer setup, but with the OEM, they stopped, didn't chew threw rotors and had a fair amount of longevity from the friction material. All this took place in the south, so salt and snow are not figured in, mud and water (lots of that) are. I've seen anywhere from 20k mi (concrete contractor) to 40k+ from a roofing contractor.