anyone have some pics of sanderson block huggers in the 53-56 f100 with an FE motor (390 to be exact), also if you have a toyota steering box would be even better. i'm thinking of the F390 ones but i want to make sure first.

Thanks

 

Ah it's time for exhaust with the old FE, eh?

Well, if you have moved the stock steering box that will help lots. You also have a couple more inches to play with that I do with the F1.

I actually had a set of the [gold plated] stock cast 390 FE headers - sold them - wouldn't fit.



I ended up going OVER the frame - custome made - mega bucks.





Note the steering column and pitman arm in the second picture between that and the motor mounts, I had a 5x5 inch box to run exhaust on the drivers side - nope, no way.

Hopefully the Sandersons will fit!

 

Julie, would stock manifolds have worked? I know they don;t flow great but I never had my 390 over 4k , I never had the need.

 

i was gonna get the sandersons for my f350 , and a freind of mine had a set on an unfinished 1/2 ton of 56 vintage , and they fit pretty nice . the peeps at sanderson are nice , informative , and don't go " oh here we go again with this question " like so many do . they aren't cheap mind you ..............

 

Julie, the stock cast iron exhaust headers are worth some extra ponies not to mention they are worth some $$$ . I used them on the 1ST-RIDE build . Had to move the steering box down 2 " and out 1" . Then the drivers side cleared . The cost was way less than a set of custom tube headers . Some old Ford guys have wanted to buy them off the truck from me . Yeah right!! . Stock 352/390 exhaust manifold may work . They sort of look like SBC exhaust manifolds . Have Sanderson roadster headers on the T . They were the only one at the time making that style roadster header for a BB Mopar in a T frame .

 

it's kinda tight on the drivers side with the toyota box and i would like to get the starter out WITHOUT pulling the headers on the pass side. the f390 look like they'll work on the pass side but it's the driver i'm concerned about. the headers will also give some added power PLUS mpg.

 

It originally had stock manifolds on it. Passenger side worked fine, but on the drivers side the manifold had to be installed backwards with the exhaust pipe pointing forward then looping back under the truck. It made changing the oil filter impossible, blocked the route for a remote filter and threw a lot of heat up around the oil filter and burned the radiator hose. Another one of many PO messes. That second picture below also shows a very good view of the stock steering box/motor mounts and the space proplem there. On an "Effie" those exta 2 inches of frame width make all the difference in the world





I sold those for over $500! I couldn't move the steering box because the shift rod going down to the C6 off the column would have interfered with the brake pedal - as it is I have 1/8 inch clearance now. You can see how the domino's fall on these things. (and I wanted the stock column and shift)

The customs were expensive ($1700) but the work very well (WRT "Ponies") they cool quickly, and they tie in with the side pipes. I know you have those too Denny, so I'd love to see a pic of your connector pipes sometime to see what you did there.

The 390 exhaust the way I did it also negated installation of a MII IFS. But after rebuilding the front end completely, and having custom springs made, can't imagine a MII providing any better ride than I have now on the stock gear - rides perfectly!

 

anyone have pics????, i want to route the harness by the frame/bottom of the inner fenders but don't wanna cook it with headers. julie how much did you cut out of the inner fenders?. the other thing i forgot to mention is that i also want a pic so i can find out if they'll work on the drivers side, i routed my exhaust under the running board on the drivers side. they need to be sorta short so i can go around the box, turn before the master and turn again under the board. the F390 is for a full size car'63 and older, the header they have for a FE in a '54 and newer F100 are too long.......plus their website kinda sucks, lots of "hidden" headers not found in the search by engine or car function.

 

Well ya caught me! I cheated on th inner fenders.

I have the full front tilt and completely removed the inner fenders.

Run your harness inside the frame rails by the gas and brake lines and it will be ok.

I feel your pain ($1700 worth)

 

This 56 truck on ebay (#190392777695) claims to have a 390 with hugger headers and stock steering. Take a look.

 

Here is his pictures. I tried to lighten them up and make them bigger - not sure if it will help. Maybe you could write to him and ask for a specific picture or info!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...%3D1&viewitem=

 

Sanderson as stated are real easy folks to deal with. They know which of their headers fit which application (If they fit the stock steering box they should fit with the Toyota box) but will work with you should they not fit. They have been known to modify/build a set for customers who have unusual clearance issues. The typical clearance problem with headers and the Toy PS box is with the return line fitting sticking out too far. Gottashow makes a set of SS braid lines with their own tight fit banjo fittings at the box that solves that problem.

 

I’m sure glad that this is not a hot rod, think of how hard it would be then?

 

I e-mailed sanderson a couple of weeks ago and told them I needed headers for a '55 F-100 with a FE 390 (64 merc) and I also had Toyota power steering box. "Denver" emailed back and said the FF 427 headers work great in the mid fifty fords with FE engines.

Plain steel $325
Ceramic coated $475

They are not a stock item and take 4-5 weeks

Call them @ 800-669-2430

Denver is the person that replied to my e-mail. Hope this helps, you can see the driver side header on their website.

 

i talked to sanderson today and they said i could order them with the ceramic coat and still return or exchange them if they didn't fit right. the ff427 is a bigger tube and further away from the block, the ones they recommend for the 54 f100 with a FE are too long. i have a crossmember that's different then the regular FE one, so if they go too far down they'll hit. again, the hot rod is in pieces in the garage so the panel has to be done in the driveway and i'm trying to be kind to my non car neighbors by minimizing the downtime. all this is to get the max mpg out of what i have and still be able to tow things.