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Wait to start light not coming on

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Old May 3, 2010 | 06:16 PM
  #1  
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Wait to start light not coming on

OK after replacing the return hose this past weekend the Wait to Start light did not stay on at all.I put the key in the ign and turned and got the light for about half a second then it went out.The glow plugs cycled because I heard click.
On another note the engine takes about 5 sec before it fires up.Previously it took about 2-3.All return line/caps are new,new glow plugs,controller/ glow plug harness, all within a year.Where do I look?
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 06:23 PM
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lemonshindig
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It may take longer to start if the glow plugs aren't working correctly. The solenoid might be clicking but still not working. When mine went out, it still clicked but it put out no power at all.
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 07:00 PM
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if there are not cycling correctly you quite possibly should hear a fast clicking.. thats what mine did when one plug came unplugged.
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 07:24 PM
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year of truck? 6.9/7.3 etc. and is the original system stock?
did you run any tests at all yet?
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 08:00 PM
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What year is the truck/engine?

Sounds like a couple bad glow plugs if it is an 87 or newer.
 
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Old May 4, 2010 | 03:39 AM
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My bad its a 1992 F350 7.3 Diesel,turbo.I replaced the glow plugs all about a year and a half ago, all new from Ford.I will have to check my log to find out exactly when I did them.Oh well what is the test procedure again for them and the harness?Oh the harness is new also as well as the controller boFORD Parts) with a sepereate ground to the batt.
 
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Old May 4, 2010 | 03:47 PM
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Glow Plug Testing Procedure

I'd say you have either some unplugged or bad GP's...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old May 4, 2010 | 04:04 PM
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From: Matthews NC
Originally Posted by Festus Hagen
Glow Plug Testing Procedure

I'd say you have either some unplugged or bad GP's...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
OK back to the drawing board !! I actually have another set (BERU)
Any reason why they would go bad after a year or so?
 
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Old May 4, 2010 | 04:14 PM
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Have you tested them, Are they bad ??

I've seen parts fresh out of the box be bad or fail in short time for no reason, Sometimes you get unlucky.

Assuming they are good or bad is poor diagnostics, bad diagnostics cost unneeded $$$$!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old May 4, 2010 | 07:03 PM
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From: Matthews NC
Originally Posted by Festus Hagen
Have you tested them, Are they bad ??

I've seen parts fresh out of the box be bad or fail in short time for no reason, Sometimes you get unlucky.

Assuming they are good or bad is poor diagnostics, bad diagnostics cost unneeded $$$$!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
NO I have not tested them yet but I know what I am doing Friday night after work !! LOL !!!I will report back and hopefully have some type of answer.Thanks
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 09:09 AM
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I think its fixed finally,re no start.One more question though!!

Well,I think I fixed my no start problem this weekend.I was not getting the Wait to Start light to stay on when I went to start it.It just flicked and went off.I ended up jumping the two thick wires that go into the connector plug from the glow plug harness to the main harness under the fuse box.I also replaced all the glow plugs again.Low and behold I turn the key.The light comes on for about 10-12 seconds,goes off I hear the clicking and the truck fires right up.I let it cool for a few hours and tried it again and seemed have finally gotten fixed.So thanks to all.I think it might have been those two wires.When I looked in the plug one of the connectors seemed to be burnt.
How do I check the plug used to plug the truck in in the cold months,Is ti hard to replace.It seems to be on top of the starter.I can't find it in my manuals,also does anyone use an oil pan heater? if so do you use the magent or the stick on type.
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 09:26 AM
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Awesome ...

This should have been posted to your original thread to complete that thread.

Those connectors are notorious for burning up, however I suspect you'll find it was the Glow Plugs that were the issue.

Block heaters are all thats needed.

When you plug a block heater in you can hear them sizzle a little if you really listen.

They are easy to replace.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 11:02 AM
  #13  
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From: woodville, tx
i remembered Dave just put this up not long ago... you can use an ohm meter to test it

Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
Block heater come in a variety of wattages.
Because of that, resistance can vary.

26.4 ohms = 500 watts
13.2 ohm's = 1000 watts
8.8 ohm's = 1500 watts

That is three examples, I have seen 600, 750, 900, 1200 and several other wattages over the years on top of the ones I listed above.
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 11:55 AM
  #14  
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rupejosh
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From: back in SE Iowa
Originally Posted by Festus Hagen
Awesome ...

This should have been posted to your original thread to complete that thread.
done festus
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 06:43 PM
  #15  
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From: Matthews NC
Originally Posted by jmmartin
i remembered Dave just put this up not long ago... you can use an ohm meter to test it
How do I test it? Im not to good with an ohm meter even though my brother gave me his Fluke.I do not dare ask him how to test ,I will never hear the end of it.LOL !!! P.S. I remebmer reading somewhere about replacing the wires with some 10 gauge wires.I just can't seem to find the post.
 
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