Alternator positive wire melted and caused other problems.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 249
Likes: 2
From: Moody, AL
Alternator positive wire melted and caused other problems.
1995 F-150 Supercab 5.0 RWD E40D
The other night my truck stalled on an offramp. I killed the headlights, at 5am, and drove home running every stop sign and traffic light. I put it on a medium load battery charger for over 12 hours, but she was acting funny. Upon further inspection the positive lead from the alternator was melted and held on by a tiny piece of metal. It broke with just a tug.
I pulled the alternator out and found that the whole boot was fried along with the plastic around the terminal, which fell apart like ash. I replaced the wire and everything runs fine now. I will post pics of the alternator later.
Now my doors do not unlock electronically, but they will lock. They do niether with the remote locking. My speedometer has no reading, which is not much of a surprise because my VSS has been acting up, but I am hoping I knocked a wire loose while fishing the battery cover out from on top of the tranny. Also the OD OFF light on my gear selector keeps blinking.
Any ideas? Help is greatly appreciated!
The other night my truck stalled on an offramp. I killed the headlights, at 5am, and drove home running every stop sign and traffic light. I put it on a medium load battery charger for over 12 hours, but she was acting funny. Upon further inspection the positive lead from the alternator was melted and held on by a tiny piece of metal. It broke with just a tug.
I pulled the alternator out and found that the whole boot was fried along with the plastic around the terminal, which fell apart like ash. I replaced the wire and everything runs fine now. I will post pics of the alternator later.
Now my doors do not unlock electronically, but they will lock. They do niether with the remote locking. My speedometer has no reading, which is not much of a surprise because my VSS has been acting up, but I am hoping I knocked a wire loose while fishing the battery cover out from on top of the tranny. Also the OD OFF light on my gear selector keeps blinking.
Any ideas? Help is greatly appreciated!
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 249
Likes: 2
From: Moody, AL
It's a 130 amp Powermaster. I chose 130amp because I was told that 150 would require upgraded wiring. Until yesterday the alternator was using the OEM wiring. I'm thinking of upgrading to an 8 or 6 guage lead.
Powermaster wants me to ship the alternator back to them for inspection. I am positive they will blame it on me to get out of replacing the part, but it still works just fine with the new wiring. Should I just leave it in there or risk having to buy a new one if I send it back to Powermaster?
Powermaster wants me to ship the alternator back to them for inspection. I am positive they will blame it on me to get out of replacing the part, but it still works just fine with the new wiring. Should I just leave it in there or risk having to buy a new one if I send it back to Powermaster?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 249
Likes: 2
From: Moody, AL
Sweet! I can swap out the wiring and install a fuse tomorrow. I still need to figure out the speedometer, non locking doors, and blinking OD OFF light. Could I have fried some things when this happened?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 249
Likes: 2
From: Moody, AL
The main thing that still has me confused is why the OFF light is blinking on my transmission shifter. Is this because the speedometer is not working?
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
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Yes, that's just it - the PCM needs the speedometer signal to determine when to shift the E4OD, and if it don't see it then it makes the light blink tell you there's an issue somewhere and that you should hook up a code scanner to investigate.
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 249
Likes: 2
From: Moody, AL
Now why do my guage lights turn on when I hit the door lock button? The doors do not lock or unlock electrically now. I hoping it's just a fuse.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 249
Likes: 2
From: Moody, AL
According to the Haynes Manual I have the blk/org wire from the alternator connected to a fusible link that is connected to the positive on the battery. In real life I have a 4 guage wire running from the post on the alternator to the top post on a round device, mounted next to the battery on the inner fender, that is connected to the positive side of the battery
Does this sound right?
Can I connect directly to the positive side of the battery?
I couldn't find a 150amp fuse. Where are good places to find one? In ATL preferably.
Does this sound right?
Can I connect directly to the positive side of the battery?
I couldn't find a 150amp fuse. Where are good places to find one? In ATL preferably.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,052
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville FL
According to the Haynes Manual I have the blk/org wire from the alternator connected to a fusible link that is connected to the positive on the battery. In real life I have a 4 guage wire running from the post on the alternator to the top post on a round device, mounted next to the battery on the inner fender, that is connected to the positive side of the battery
Does this sound right?
Can I connect directly to the positive side of the battery?
I couldn't find a 150amp fuse. Where are good places to find one? In ATL preferably.
Does this sound right?
Can I connect directly to the positive side of the battery?
I couldn't find a 150amp fuse. Where are good places to find one? In ATL preferably.
The big 4 gauge power wire needs a fuse. You can run it to the battery or the starter solenoid(round thing) dont matter which one. Autozone has 150 amp circuit breakers.
My old setup
My current setup
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 249
Likes: 2
From: Moody, AL
That looks great! Was that first fuse waterproof? I went to O'Reilies, Radio Shack, and Pop-Boys. I will call autozone tomorrow.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 249
Likes: 2
From: Moody, AL
I found this, and the place is not far away.
Fry's Electronics - 150 Amp Fuse Holders
I believe the $14.99 one will work, but any feedback would be appreciated.
Fry's Electronics - 150 Amp Fuse Holders
I believe the $14.99 one will work, but any feedback would be appreciated.