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I have a Ranger 95 2.3L 4 cyl. I've have this annoying problem for long time now. The truck sometimes wont to start, the problem is intermittent. Today, out of luck I removed one spark plug from it's hole and decided to attach a test lead from ground to the spark plug's ground electrode and this way the truck works. I don't understand why the truck wont start when the spark plug is in it's place. I was able to measure continuity between engine head and a a few grounding points??? It doesn't make sense since the engine head is well grounded.
leo, does the truck crank over normally? Have you checked the fuel pressure? Do you have a decently clean air filter?
If you take a spare spark plug and connect it to a plug wire, and then lay it on the block, head, or intake, then crank it over, you should have spark at the plug.
From your description, I am not sure what you have done, if the truck starts now or doesn't, or whether you do or don't have spark or cranking. Please add some more information.
tom
Sorry guys, forgot to mention that the truck has not a crank problem, starter is not the issue. I did not check the fuel pressure, nor am I equipped to do so. Air filter is 2 years old, yes for sure it should be changed but what has it to do with the grounding problem I found that makes the vehicle start?
Yes vehicle starts but only when the spark plug (still connected) is removed from the block and grounded to some point. If put back spark plug in the block, the vehicle wont start. It's as if the engine block is not grounded or has a bad ground, but I've checked it and has good continuity (0.2 Ohm).
I am not sure why i am suggesting this but maybe you should check the ignition control module.
I have a distributorless ignition. This engine is fired through coil packs. There are 2 in my truck to provide voltage to 8 spark plugs. I have checked them with ohmmeter in regards to what Haynes suggest. Per Haynes, they measure ok as of resistance, continuity and inductance. I noticed though, they are a bit cracked.
I have a distributorless ignition. This engine is fired through coil packs. There are 2 in my truck to provide voltage to 8 spark plugs. I have checked them with ohmmeter in regards to what Haynes suggest. Per Haynes, they measure ok as of resistance, continuity and inductance. I noticed though, they are a bit cracked.
Thanks.
if they are cracked bad that is proably your issue. maybe they are shorting out. are they both cracked. the drivers side plugs are the primary plugs. the ignition control module is before the coilpacks. when dealing with the ICM you must have all the small screws installled they are grounds.. What plug are you taking out is it from the passenger side. when the truck starts does it run horrible
"vehicle starts but only when the spark plug (still connected) is removed from the block and grounded to some point."
Does this mean that when one spark plug is removed from the cylinder head, its outer shell contacting ground on the head or block, the engine will start? Running on 3 cylinders?
Sorry, I am confused as to what is happening.
tom
if they are cracked bad that is proably your issue. maybe they are shorting out. are they both cracked. the drivers side plugs are the primary plugs. the ignition control module is before the coilpacks. when dealing with the ICM you must have all the small screws installled they are grounds.. What plug are you taking out is it from the passenger side. when the truck starts does it run horrible
Only one is cracked a bit on both sides. The coil pack at engine front measures 5.56 miliHenry on my inductance meter and the one just in back measures 5.10mH This is the one cracked. I guess it probably lowers a bit the required voltage. I don't know what it should measure when new or when in spec. Per Haynes they both measured ok as of continuity between pin 1-2 and 2-3 and resistance was fine also when I measured the outputs on top of coil pack (13.8kOhms).
I positive I don't have ICM, the signal is directly fed from ECM.
I took only one out yet for this test and it is the #1 on primary. I will also regap because I noticed this spark plug has too much gap.
Of course when the #1 plug is out lying on the engine block the truck does not run fine since running on 7 spark plugs but when the intermittent problem is not present truck runs really fine.
"vehicle starts but only when the spark plug (still connected) is removed from the block and grounded to some point."
Does this mean that when one spark plug is removed from the cylinder head, its outer shell contacting ground on the head or block, the engine will start? Running on 3 cylinders?
Sorry, I am confused as to what is happening.
tom
Yes, Yes.
Don't be sorry sir, I'm French and from Montreal and my English is not at best.
what side is the plug that you take out from the drivers or passenger side. are both colils cracked? if not what coil is cracked?
Driver's side (primary as I understood). I remove the #1 spark plug, the one at the foremost on front of vehicle. Only one coil cracked, it is the secondary coil (the one closest to the firewall).