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I had a 1977 Datsun pickup with the l20b, and a Mazda rotary too.
Both had bulletproof engines but the dirty Japanese steel vaporized in salty new england winters.
Same truck as the mazda rotary was iirc. Course im also fat (or husky, or whatever the hell you want to call it) so that may of had some effect on it. I couldn't hit the clutch without hitting the brake. but maybe I'm clumsy
Well, I'm not overly tall but at 13w and never without steel toes, it can be a bit tricky. Although the pedal spacing is better than my wife's old Cherokee, I don't think I could ever hit the gas without hitting the brake too and there was nowhere for my left leg.
I was working on a 300-6 install in an 84 B2000 (making it a B4900), but there is very little room. With the radiator in the back, and the pulleys tight to the grille, the engine was still 6" into the firewall. But then the 351w in my F250 decided to die, and that hot 300 went in there instead.
Pretty much all Japanese trucks of that era are known for their rust. I had an 87 Trooper TD that rusted the frame right through in front of the rear spring. Real shame, too, since it was a fairly rare little truck and quite fun while getting unbelievable mileage.
You know they used to make a kit to bolt a 302 in these, right? There were even special fenderwell exit headers-
Besides, I doubt anyone would expect an OM617 in this thing.
I have the old engine perches cut out, and the axle radius arm bushings ordered so I can start mocking it up. Otherwise, not much progress.
I have another front end off a Sundowner pickup, I'm toying with building a street burner version after this one is done, but with a bit of a twist: Electric.
I hope you ain't skeered of axle building - I saw in a JEGs catalog last week that you can get SPOOLS to add to an 8.8 or a nine inch ford axle, in place of the planetary system.
And I bet that's what it will take to get a grip on the pavement when it's all said and done...
*I'm studying that for my own toy. I can swap an axle out fast, and it looks like a cool mod. If I keep a straight axle and a street axle for it, I can go back and forth.
A "SPOOL" is a piece that holds the ring gear of the axle, but has no provision for wheel slip at all, it locks the two axles together better than spidering the gears. It also gets rid of the weight of all that stuff inside the differential, but will tear up tires unless it is only used for straight-line launches
Look in JEG's or SUMMIT, STRANGE engineering has some good looking stuff.
EATON also makes what looks like a dang fine posi unit
All of your combined power is going to end up in ONE PLACE - be thinking about it....
Spools are for dedicated racers and wannbe kids, I'm going with a Detroit in the rear and an ARB or E-locker in the front.
I made a little progress today, got the front axle mocked up and the rear end out. The Toyota rear is just about ready but the perches were set too wide apart so that will need to be corrected.
The front axle is a little wider than expected, I may cut it down or go with an early Bronco axle. As it sits right now I have spacers in place of springs, and the pumpkin is touching the crossmember. It will be close to same height as the rear, but may need to go up a little.
It looks less sad now with a front end under it:
I have to get this thing semi-mobile by Tuesday, I'm going to be very limited on time afterwards.
The rear tires stick out a little less than the fronts, I'll probably cut the front down to match though. I'll need to find some flares that look decent, and cut the front fenders a bit. The front axle will be about 2" further forward than the original location, and i may have to go with coilovers instead of the coil springs I was planning on. Probably another 2-3" higher, with 32s. Those are 31s on it now.
it is good to see it on wheels again, though.
It's my own conversion, using a J2000 axle, Ford radius arms, and a custom locating link. The rear is just a 92 Toyota axle under the stock Courier springs. I haven't put in any sort of front spring yet, it's just blocks until I get time.
Why not just build another nice 2.3?
Mustang 2bbl intake, header, cam and a 32-36 Weber..........makes my buddies 83 Ranger 4x4 really run well, and still gets 24mpg.
There are a lot of 2.3 performance parts and you can get a LOT of hp out of these little motors.
I do diesel conversions, IMO mechanical diesel engines running on renewable fuels (sunflower, soybean, or other plant oil based feedstock) are a great and responsible way to power vehicles. Diesels are much more tolerant of variations in fuel, and can burn a wide range of fuels with minimal modifications. The Mercedes OM617 is also a very tough little engine, fairly lightweight and high revving but still gutsy at low rpms. It can be a bit more finicky than other engines of the era, but is still easily adapted to alternative fuels.
My long-term goal is to grow the majority of my own fuel, or at least enough to power my tractor and other farm equipment so it's not a net input of fuel to grow things.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.