Hello everyone. This is my first try at a forum. I am looking for some help here. I have a 118,500 on my 6.0 and yesterday it started to have trouble starting. When cranked over it fires off pretty quick then runs absolutely terrible for a few seconds. Today it even worse. It took several attemps to start. Same thing it fires off quickly but then dies. After several starts it will stay lit but runs like hell a little longer till it gets going. Also this only happens if it has been sitting for a while. If started soon after sitting no problem. Even if it is cold but been started already once it is fine. I have brain stormed for the last two days and am leaning towards a High pressure oil leak of some sort. Maybee on one side only.When you turn the ignition on our trucks make a couple of noises then stop. The under cab fuel pump sounds descent but what is the noise that comes from under the oil filter/ fuel secondary filter. That sound that stops about 3 to 4 seconds when ignition is selcted has changed towards a little weaker than normal. Help me understand what the hell is there that makes that noise as it is different now. I hear filter bowl leakdown can cause a hard start but I thought the High pressure oil has its own chamber under the oil cooler. Give some advise please.

 

It would help if we knew what year truck, when was it last serviced ie; filters and fluids, a/m or oem, and any mods. Crystal ball got broke last night.

 

2004 filters up to date. fluids are correct. and mods are Airraid intake cat back exhuast with hollowed out cat and diablo sport programmer. Just got latest ford flashes two weeks ago becuase programmer was stolen and wanted to start back from start but program stayed in computer. Still huals butt. That will be a later post.

 

Usually a hpop leak shows up when the oil is warm. Are the fuel and oil filters oem? You also need to check the ficm voltage and do a load test on your batteries. Seperated not connected in parallel. You also need to check for any codes.

 

Only oem on filters. I need to get the codes pulled but the programmer I had to get codes was stolen and as far as batteries I will try that. I have a multimeter but would not know where to check the ficm voltage.

 

Try this link.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=19314

How to check your FICM for proper voltage output.
(Perform this check when the engine is completely cold.)

1. Remove the two bolts that hold the coolant reservoir to the cowl and push the reservoir out of the way forward and to your right. You do not need to disconnect any of the hoses.

2. On top of the FICM is a small cover held on by two #20 Torx screws; remove these two screws and pry the cover off.

3. On 2003 and early 2004 trucks, you will see 7 screw heads under the cover. On 2004 and later trucks you will see 4 screws.

PROCEDURE for 4 SCREW FICM
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/pi...ictureid=19314

4a. Take a multi-meter set on DC volts and connect the ground lead to battery negative, and with the key ON measure the voltage at the screw on your right—closest to the driver’s side fender. Do not let the probe short against the case! The voltage should be right at 48 volts. Anything between 47 and 49 is good.

5a. Have an assistant cycle the key and measure the voltage during the initial key-on buzz test. Voltage should not drop below 46 volts.

6a. Next measure the voltage while cranking the engine. If voltage stays at or above 45-46 volts, the FICM is fine. Abnormally low battery voltage can give a false low FICM voltage reading, so make sure your batteries are good.

The procedure is the same for FICM’s with 7 screws, except that you will be checking voltage at a different screw, as shown in this picture.

 

If the above didn't come out right go to the tech folder. Sometimes my copy and paste skills aren't the best.

 

Thanks for the good info. If this voltage is bad is the result a bucking start then smoothing out? If hpop problems are worse when hot how about filter bowl leak down. What would that result in as far as problems. What noise is it that comes from under that filter when ignition is first selected? Thanks again.

 

Hey buddy I think you got me in the right direction with the thoughts on the ficm. I have checked posts all weekend and am going to go with a resolder of key parts that go bad per instructions by other superduty enthusiests. And I always talked about that noise that is now not sounding the same. I have a training folder I bought on ebay a while back called technician ficm guide for the 6.0 psd. I forgot I had it. And the noise is in the manual and it states " The ficm will cycle through the injector outputs when the key is placed in the on position. This is called pre-cycle and the time of the pre-cycle varies with engine temperature. The pre-cycle is done as a self test of the injector." So the noise is the injectors and mine are just getting a weak signal from low ficm output, so I hope. I will resolder and fill in soon. Thank you for the push in the right direction.

 

Miami...do it! Your symptoms are exactly the same as what I had. Tested the FICM, low votage, resoldered and it worked like a champ.

Let us now how it goes!

 

Did the resolder today and it is at 48 volts and running like a champ. The real test will be starting it tomorrow morning to go to work cold from all night. I am confident.