Bit the bullet, now I'm bulletproof (ARP, EGR Delete, etc)
#16
They are good. That is why I use them in my race engines. Unfortunately they have the market for performance studs and bolts pretty much capped, so they can charge whatever they like for bolts. I know I am gonna start a huge war here, but I personally do not go by what NASCAR endorses. They will put their logo on anything that hands them a $20 bill. At one point in time, Scotch tape was the official NASCAR tape and Ralleys was the official burger of NASCAR. I have worked with NASCAR and have seen how it operates... not really racing as much as a business. NHRA, that is more about racing. Same with SCCA, NMRA, etc.
#17
I don't remember saying anything of the sort. I think my statement was "I'm as bulletproof as can be reasonably expected."
Don't get me wrong, I agree that the 7.3 is a great engine with respect to durability. But there are always pros and cons. You'll just never make near the power with a 7.3 as you can on the 6.0. So, therein lies your decision points. You can have the outstanding durability of the 7.3, or you can make mods to the 6.0 to decrease its weak points, and have the ability to create lots of power.
The arguments over the 7.3 vs the 6.0 will rage for a long time, but the bottom line is what your desired mission is for the truck, and to what extent you want to make power, and to what extent you are risk averse to engine issues. Everyone's goal is different, and for each person the right engine exists.
rgds,
TX
Don't get me wrong, I agree that the 7.3 is a great engine with respect to durability. But there are always pros and cons. You'll just never make near the power with a 7.3 as you can on the 6.0. So, therein lies your decision points. You can have the outstanding durability of the 7.3, or you can make mods to the 6.0 to decrease its weak points, and have the ability to create lots of power.
The arguments over the 7.3 vs the 6.0 will rage for a long time, but the bottom line is what your desired mission is for the truck, and to what extent you want to make power, and to what extent you are risk averse to engine issues. Everyone's goal is different, and for each person the right engine exists.
rgds,
TX
BTW, most people think that Lamborghini V12s are a fantastic engine, however they produce less horsepower than the 5.4L Ford GT and have to be rebuilt every 25,000 miles, yet nobody complains about them.
#18
The ARP Head Studs run roughly $500 depending on the vendor.
A good set of head gaskets like Black Onyxy will be about $200.
An EGR Valve/Cooler delete kit, such as the one from Sinister, will run about $300.
A new factory oil cooler, if needed, runs about $300.
Figure another $50 or so for remaining gaskets like the intake gasket, etc.
So you're a little over $1300 for the parts. Some companies like MKM Customs sell it all as a package.
My shop charged me $1800 labor to put it in. So I got a just a little over $3K into the whole thing.
Your mileage may vary on parts costs, labor costs (if you choose to have it done).
It's not a minor undertaking, and I got a one year/12K mile warranty on the parts and installation, so you have to figure in that for peace of mind.
Rgds,
TX
A good set of head gaskets like Black Onyxy will be about $200.
An EGR Valve/Cooler delete kit, such as the one from Sinister, will run about $300.
A new factory oil cooler, if needed, runs about $300.
Figure another $50 or so for remaining gaskets like the intake gasket, etc.
So you're a little over $1300 for the parts. Some companies like MKM Customs sell it all as a package.
My shop charged me $1800 labor to put it in. So I got a just a little over $3K into the whole thing.
Your mileage may vary on parts costs, labor costs (if you choose to have it done).
It's not a minor undertaking, and I got a one year/12K mile warranty on the parts and installation, so you have to figure in that for peace of mind.
Rgds,
TX
#19
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Plano TX and Brentwood TN
Posts: 10,626
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
That doesn't mean anything. I chose 60# of boost gauges due to the range of display when I was still stock. In other words, one tick mark was one psi, not having to guess where the boost number was. In of itself, having gauges doesn't mean that they were stretching the performance of the engine. That's the same argument that dealerships used for denying claims, because they saw gauges on there, so the owner must have been running a tuner due to the gauge being there. Not exactly true.
I will also say again, you don't have to get rid of the EGR system to be reliable. I think the EGR also gets a bad rap due to how people are treating it with their driving methods.
I would like to see if the 7.3 had an EGR system and a VGT turbo and see how well it handles with people driving the 7.3 the same way that they do. That would really be the true comparision as to rather or not the 7.3 could handle better then the 6.0. As most people are really eager to point out, they are totally different engines. Now you can still keep both of those in stock form and be reliable, all depending on how you drive it. Some don't like to do that, it's like digging a ditch to China or something.
#20
Not blaming tuners, I have one, love it. But the very act of increasing power, which in turn creates significantly increased exhaust heat temps, can be too much for the EGR system, specifically in cooling the exhaust gas. It can cause your coolant temps to rise, which can cause other problems, etc, etc.
I think the general consensus is that if you run a tuner, and you are using it to create power well beyond stock, or what the engine systems were intended to handle, then it's probably just a matter of time before some issue arises, either small or extreme.
#22
Let's face it, the 6.0 is three generations back and the 7.3 is four back from current engines. Nobody's coming out with much of anything for either any more mostly due to working on the newer stuff. I had a 300 inch I-6 in my last truck('87 F-150) that started out as a tractor engine back in what? the 1940's? and it lasted me 20 years and just short of 200K miles. Now there have been four substantially different engines in the last eight years. There were the 7.3, 6.0, 6.4, 6.7 and if you go back a bit there was the 6.9, all diesels in the 3/4 ton and up trucks.
You can do a lot of mods that improve longevity but not necessarily performance. I have several of them on my truck like a FluiDampr, coolant filter, tranny filter, bypass oil filter, pre/post luber to name a few. I also have a few "power adders" like a SCT XCal-2 from Spartan and a Accufab power elbow(though to be honest I got the elbow mostly as an easy place to hook up the boost gage). The biggest factor with any piece of equipment is how the operator treats it and if proper maintenance is done or not.
If I ever need to get into the engine deep enough that I'm close enough to it, doing head studs while it's torn down is a no brainer. I'd probably have the oil and EGR coolers at least checked out if not replaced/deleted then too. And since the heads would be off at that point, a little bit of porting and polishing might just make it into the budget. Even if I ever got all those mods done I highly doubt I'd ever take it down the drag strip or hook up to a sled. I'd be more likely to spend for a set of TrueTracs on both ends first...
You can do a lot of mods that improve longevity but not necessarily performance. I have several of them on my truck like a FluiDampr, coolant filter, tranny filter, bypass oil filter, pre/post luber to name a few. I also have a few "power adders" like a SCT XCal-2 from Spartan and a Accufab power elbow(though to be honest I got the elbow mostly as an easy place to hook up the boost gage). The biggest factor with any piece of equipment is how the operator treats it and if proper maintenance is done or not.
If I ever need to get into the engine deep enough that I'm close enough to it, doing head studs while it's torn down is a no brainer. I'd probably have the oil and EGR coolers at least checked out if not replaced/deleted then too. And since the heads would be off at that point, a little bit of porting and polishing might just make it into the budget. Even if I ever got all those mods done I highly doubt I'd ever take it down the drag strip or hook up to a sled. I'd be more likely to spend for a set of TrueTracs on both ends first...
#23
#24
That doesn't mean anything. I chose 60# of boost gauges due to the range of display when I was still stock. In other words, one tick mark was one psi, not having to guess where the boost number was. In of itself, having gauges doesn't mean that they were stretching the performance of the engine. That's the same argument that dealerships used for denying claims, because they saw gauges on there, so the owner must have been running a tuner due to the gauge being there. Not exactly true.
.
.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Atom1234
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
23
03-18-2016 10:49 AM