Well, I knew I wanted to eventually have all this stuff done, but I started noticing relatively high oil temps when pulling the big trailer.

So now, a week later and lighter in the pocket, I'm as bulletproof as can be reasonably expected. EGR delete kit, ARP head studs, new oil cooler, gaskets, etc.

Haven't pulled the trailer yet, but already can see lower oil temps when cruising.

Plus, now not so afraid to put the Banks in "Speed Load" mode and romp on it...

TX

 

How do people like those ARPs for the long haul? Meanin people that want couple hundred k outta their 6.0s?

 

I don't see how the head studs could do anything to harm the longevity of the motor. Much better than those stretchy bolts Ford tried to use.

 

I hope it last a long time.I had a truck just like that one with the 6.0.Stayed in the shop more than I drove it and that was before all of you smart folks figurred out how to make them last longer

 

How much did everything cost if you don't mind me asking? Can you itemize it all? Thinking of doing this myself.

 

i think you mean navistar, remember its a cornbinder.

 

The ARP Head Studs run roughly $500 depending on the vendor.

A good set of head gaskets like Black Onyxy will be about $200.

An EGR Valve/Cooler delete kit, such as the one from Sinister, will run about $300.

A new factory oil cooler, if needed, runs about $300.

Figure another $50 or so for remaining gaskets like the intake gasket, etc.

So you're a little over $1300 for the parts. Some companies like MKM Customs sell it all as a package.

My shop charged me $1800 labor to put it in. So I got a just a little over $3K into the whole thing.

Your mileage may vary on parts costs, labor costs (if you choose to have it done).

It's not a minor undertaking, and I got a one year/12K mile warranty on the parts and installation, so you have to figure in that for peace of mind.

Rgds,
TX

 

Im not talk about the longevity of the motor but the longevity of the studs themselves

 

Well, if you're comparing them to stock, the ARPs are an order of magnitude better than the stock bolts, which is the whole point of doing this upgrade in the first place, since the stock bolts are basically under-spec'd for this head/engine application.

This pic below is for a 6.9L application, but I've always liked this pic. It shows the difference between the stock factory head "bolt" and the ARP head stud.




From the ARP website...

"ARP uses a premium grade 8740 alloy that is rated far superior to “aircraft” quality. Then, each stud is placed vertically in special racks and precisely heat-treated to 200,000 psi.

ARP studs are thread rolled after heat-treat, which gives them about 1000% (that’s ten times) better fatigue strength than those studs that are threaded prior to heat-treat (a very common industry practice)."

 

Is this symptom a good indicator of a EGR, ARP head studs failure?

 

So, are you saying you can make a 6.0L as bomb-proof as a 7.3L? My cousin's 6.0L had all 8 injectors replaced by 100K... I'm still not convinced.

 

Glad to hear ya got all those things taken care
of. Just wanted to give ya a heads up on some other stuff. If you don't have a coolant filter on there you might wanna invest in that since you've just replaced the egr cooler and oil cooler. That casting sand could still clog those things up after a while. And if your talking about a programmer when you say loading up the banks something or another, i haven't experienced this but I've heard alot of talk about those things eating trannies. If you want a good programmer then I'd go with a sct or phalanx with some custom tunes. These custom tunes tune the tranny and engine making it alot safer on your drivetrain. Banks and bullydog don't really program all the components in your engine they just pretty much throw more fuel at it making it not so safe. I'm not trying to tell ya what to do or ******* on ya I just wanted to save ya a few headaches and maybe some money down the road.

Thanks

shawn

 

I don't remember saying anything of the sort. I think my statement was "I'm as bulletproof as can be reasonably expected."

Don't get me wrong, I agree that the 7.3 is a great engine with respect to durability. But there are always pros and cons. You'll just never make near the power with a 7.3 as you can on the 6.0. So, therein lies your decision points. You can have the outstanding durability of the 7.3, or you can make mods to the 6.0 to decrease its weak points, and have the ability to create lots of power.

The arguments over the 7.3 vs the 6.0 will rage for a long time, but the bottom line is what your desired mission is for the truck, and to what extent you want to make power, and to what extent you are risk averse to engine issues. Everyone's goal is different, and for each person the right engine exists.

rgds,
TX

 

I'm by no means a Banks fanatic (with regards to the tuner). I'll confess that back when I was picking tuners, I went with the Banks system primarily due to the color display of information and touch screen capabilities of the PDA in the system. At that time, the SCTs and others of the world weren't there yet.

But things have come a long way in the last several years, and now I'm reevaluating my tuner options.

Probably what mostly sparked my interest is SCT's newest device: the Touch Screen Xtreme, which is color, touchscreen, and WIRELESS ! Plus, it's an SCT product, so will hopefully take advantage of the great SCT-specific tunes that many of the great tuning vendors offer.

More on that later.

rgds,
TX

 

I dont wanna see next winter for my 6.7L. I can drive for about 10miles in the city before the oil temp gets past 160*f

But as for the ARP studs. There the best if you want them, thats why nascar, nhra, etc etc uses the same ones.