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License plate bulb replacement

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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 01:29 PM
  #1  
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License plate bulb replacement

I had a license plate bulb out and needed to replace it. I tried to search here and on the web, but I didn't find any info on how it comes apart so here it is. There is a screwdriver slot on the opposite side of the lens, the side you are looking at. You need to insert the screwdriver deep in order to push in the tab BEFORE you start prying the assembly off. Again, you need to push hard enough to release the tab first, then you can pry it out of the bumper. Once out, the socket only needs a quick quarter turn to remove the socket assembly from the housing. Replace it with a BP168 bulb and reassemble. If anyone has photos, please chime in.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 01:36 PM
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That is good info. Mine are kinda dangling out of the holes so it doesn't help me. Some day I will replace them.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 02:05 PM
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Yup, the only downside to having a tow hitch installed. No matter how much snaking I did with my hand, I could NOT get that bulb out. I did the screwdriver trick, but cracked my light housing in the process. A new bulb, and a little gorrilla glue later, back in business. Next time, I'll replace them with led's & won't have to worry for a long time.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 03:42 PM
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I read on the internet that in the 2011 models this is a cab off procedure.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 08:42 PM
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From: Ben Wheeler
Originally Posted by clem1226
I read on the internet that in the 2011 models this is a cab off procedure.
take the cab off to remove rear license plate bulbs?
 
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 02:29 PM
  #6  
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re license plate lamps

Use a medium flat blade screw driver, not too much force. There are two tabs--release one near the opening in the housing and rock the entire lamp unit out.

There is enough slack in the wires to rotate the housing inside and expose the lamp.

When lamp is removed check (especially if old bulb flashed silver) for rust or dirty contacts and I cleaned with a good electronic cleaner.

A note: if the unit has the 168 lamp--replace it with the 194 lamp which is a long life version of the 168 (up to 10,000 hours versus 2,000 for the 168).

This cutting wires and splicing is not needed unless the socket or wires are badly damaged.

The only tool you should need is a screwdriver (flat blade).
 
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 02:33 PM
  #7  
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A note: if the unit has the 168 lamp--replace it with the 194 lamp which is a long life version of the 168 (up to 10,000 hours versus 2,000 for the 168).


I do not agree with this, a 194 is a higher heat range bulb and may melt the lens
 
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 02:52 PM
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Used them in lots of the EXPLORER'S with no problem, standard practice and most shops I have asked use them---ask for a 168 at the local parts place and you likely will find they do not even stock the 168===I did look at the current difference but if you look it is not great enough to cause a problem.

30 plus years as a electronics tech taught me a few things. 40 years ago TV sets used a #47 lamp and they went out every few years, so along came the 1847 lamp---a long life and slightly higher current- In those times I never saw the 1847 fail.

As a side note: we can carry this "exact" replacement to extremes, in my career I usually ran into this argument with "engineers" who never had to repair but only design problems into the equipment.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 03:31 PM
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I on the contrary as an automotive tech have had may vehicles that melt lic. plate lens for example the lincoln town car comes with a 194, melts the lens like crazy, we replace them with 168 and have no future problems. Perhaps this is just my experience...
 
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