Hi All,
First post but not real new to the forums. I have an 04 F-250 Super Duty, 4X4, with the 6.0 diesel engine. I need to replace the lower ball joints, the one on the drivers side is shot so I might as well replace both. 79,572 miles, is it normal for this to happen? Anyway how hard is it going to be to do this, can it be done in the driveway and do I need any special tools? While I have the mechanical knowledge to work on machinery, I am a little light on the F-250.
1: Will I need to drop the hub and press out the ball joint or is it a bolt in?
2: Tools, I have most everything to do the job except the axle nut (need size) and a press if needed.

So anything else I need to know? I have a Chilton's guide, but it's VERY light on information. It says it needs to go to the dealer? Not on my watch if I can help it. $500 bucks is a lot of money right now and the VA won't pay for it.
Thanks for any help.
Russ Abbey

 

Never done it on anything as new as your truck so here are the basic steps acording to my info,
1. remove the brake disc (rotor)
2.Remove the wheel hub
3. using a drift drive out the main axle seal
4. remove axle shaft and seal
5.disconnect tie rod from steering knuckle
6. remove upper ball joint nut and insert.
7. remove lower ball joint nut
8. remove knuckle.
9. using a ball joint press, press out the lower ball joint
10. using a press, press in a new joint
Now you could probably hire a ball joint press and you would probably need a ball joint seperator as well ( maybe a cheap pickle fork type).
When reassembling you run both ball joint nuts up finger tight first. Then torque the lower one to 35ft.lbs, Then torque the upper one to 69ft.lbs, tightening it a little if necessary to get the cotter pin to fit. Then tighten the lower one to 150ft.lbs.
Hope this helps.

 

Thanks Lazy k, That is what I needed to hear. I will start the project next weekend when I'm off all weekend.
Russ abbey

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...oints-etc.html Have a look here, especially post No.4 where there is a link to a great how-to.

 

Again thank you for the information. It looks like I might want to replace the uppers at the same time, That way I don't have to do this again in the near future. The article that was written is exceptional with the pictures, it will help.
Russ Abbey

 

I picked my up online, I think I paid $199 for a set of the good greasable ones with a lifetime warranty, with a balljoint heavyduty tool and air compressor did it in the garage, If you have auto hubs then replace the seal and orings. The seals are a pita but using a redneck seal intstaller(an a big oxy/acetolene bottle saftey cap worked great. Took about 6 hours for all 4.

 

The seals are a pita but using a redneck seal intstaller(an a big oxy/acetolene bottle saftey cap worked great. Took about 6 hours for all 4.[/quote]

Scootygt69, First thank you for your service to our Country. I put in 22 years in the Navy so I understand a little.
Thank you for the information, I had planned to do it in the garage, then a friend who is a mechanic said to bring it down to his garage and use the lift. How's that for a nice friend huh? Fair Winds and Following Seas my friend.
Russ Abbey
BMC (SW) USN-r