For one of the first times in my adult life I am without a dent side project! I am starting to look for my next project. I am thinking about getting one to drag around a camper of some sort. Since I am starting from scratch, if you could build the ultimate dent side to pull a camper with, how would you build it? Start with an F350 SRW, what about an F250? I have never pulled a trailer let alone a camper with an old dent, how do they do with a heavy load? So, if I am starting from scratch, what motor/tranny, tires, etc do you think I should start with?
I know that the “easy” thing to do is go with a newer f350 but hey, I am a dent side fan.
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Thanks!

 

Welcome to FTE!

I've pulled many 5th wheel travel trailers, bumper pull travel trailers, and hauled many campers through the years with the 2 dentsides I have had. The first one, a 74 F350SC had a 390, 4:10 rear, 16" tires and RV cam. It pulled up to a 12,500lb 5th wheel, but not well, so I wouldn't recommend that without much upgraded systems. My current truck, Burt, has a 460 w/4bbl, auto C6, 225 75 R16 tires, (Load range "E" I believe), 3:53 rear one tone axel with 3x12" rear brakes and air shocks. I've carried a 4,000lb camper for years and now pull a 22' 4,500lb travel trailer. He has no problem with this. 60mph up a 6 1/2% grade.

Just remember that just because you CAN pull/carry something doesn't mean you should. That said, the more important part is STOPPING, so if you get a slide in camper make sure you have a really well maintained brake system on your truck (as well as appropriate suspension), and if you pull a trailer it's just as important to have good trailer brakes on the trailer and a quality brake controller on your truck.

Good luck!
Dak

 

drop a cummins in it...put 4 wheel disk brakes on it. dual piston front calipers, decent gears for the cummins. air bag over springs on the rear, that way you can handle the weight and still ride "softer" unloaded. soft..yeah thats a word never used in describing a dentside suspension...lol

 

I use mine to carry a camper and tow a trailer with my Jeep on it.

Its an 8500GVWR Supercab F250 4x4 with the Dana 60 front axle. Its got a swapped in 460 on Propane followed by a C6 Auto and a 10.25" rear axle

It works okay, but not legal, fully loaded its always over the GVWR.

To build something from scratch, I'd start with a 2wd F350 Supercab so I can get the 10000 GVWR and the 460 engine. I'd swap in a NV4500 five speed transmission, or maybe even an equivalent six speed if a swap kit becomes available. A good old NP205 transfer case will go behind the manual trans.

It needs to be 4wd in my world, and I'd just buy a brand new Kingpin Dana 60 from Dynatrac and hang it up front on custom springs.

Engine crossmember modifications and steering box location changes as required of course, as well as the engine accessory brackets to move the alternator out from under the truck.

In the rear a 10.25 with disk brake swap, attached to more custom springs to match the height of the front.

Another option is to find the rare 79 F350 4x4, but I haven't found one yet.

 

Actually I'd start with a 78/79 F250/350 Supercab 4x4. I know the GVW is only 8500/8600, respectively, but the frames on these trucks are heavier than on the 2wd F350 Supercabs. Also the 2wd F350 Supercabs only had a 9200 GVW, the only trucks that had the 10000 GVW, were the cab-and-chassis 2wd F350 trucks that came with with dual rear wheels (and some of the early F350 Super Camper Specials with the 140" wheelbase also had a 10000 GVW).

For the front end a Dana 60, will bolt right in, no need to fab up spring hangers or anything. For the rear end, either use a Dana 70 from a F350 2wd Supercab, or a Sterling 10.25" (these have a 7400lb GAWR), or a Chevy 14-bolt if you want to go this route. If you want even heavier, a Dana 80 rear end from a Dodge truck will also work.

For the engine, my favorite would be Cummins in any flavor, 12-valve, 24-valve, CR, they all will make insane amounts of torque to pull anything you want. If you want a gasser, a 460 will bolt on to that frame with some L&L motor mounts and some brackets and pulleys out of a van.

Transmission, an NVG4500 for a manual, or a Dodge 47RE or 48RE for an auto, these will bolt on to the Cummins. A C6 or 4-speed auto will bolt on to a 460. For the transfer case an NP205, or NV241 or 271, will bolt up to the Dodge transmissions.

Dodge trucks with the Cummins will pull gooseneck trailers that are 20,000lbs with no issues so there is no reason you can't do the same with a dentside. In fact the problem is not pulling, but stopping, so good brakes are a must for pulling heavy loads.