Need help ASAP.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 198
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Need help ASAP.
Thanks for looking every one. I could use some help on my grandfathers 96 F250 PSD. The reason I currently have the truck is because my grandfather is 74 years old and knows almost nothing about diesels or how they work. He has been a gas guy for the last 25 years but after driving my LB7 chevy he has crossed over to the dark side. Unfortunately he may have gone about it a little wrong. He picked up a 96 extended cab automatic 4x4 work truck from a construction company. The company went out of business 3 years ago when the owner died and the trucks have been sitting since 2009. He did get what I consider a good deal on the truck at 3800 bucks but of course she needs a lot of TLC.
I was able to get the truck running by pumping out the tanks, changing the fuel filter, adding some lubrication additives, and dumping the factory air box (it was broken into chunks and rats had made a nest in the filter) so I added a 4 x 12 K&N ($40 bucks well spent). I was able to limp the truck back to NC from VA (about 200 miles) but it does have the following issues.<O
</O
<O
#1. Will not start when cold and dumps a ton of white smoke. I have a feeling its glow plug related and plan to trouble shoot it more starting with the relay.<O</O
<O</O
#2. (the big one) The truck is stumbling randomly. Sometimes it does it under load and sometimes it does it at ideal and dies. It seems to be totally random since it will run great for 20-30 minutes and then just start dyeing again. Sometimes it’s just a miner miss or jerk that you can feel. And other times it’s a series and it throws a light. Once or twice I started slowing down to stop or pulled over and the code went away. And other times the truck died and took a second to crank back up.<O</O
<O</O
#3. This is not a huge issue but it looks like the valve covers could have a small leak. It is not dripping on the ground or running down the side of the block yet. But I will probably just replace them since I know they can cause some crazy issues with the powerstrokes.<O</O
<O</O
I am doing this for my grandfather for all the times he helped me work on my little projects when I was younger. He pulls a lot of mountains and the truck needs to be sound before I give it back to him in a few weeks. This is my Christmas gift to him.<O</O
<O</O
This is what still needs to be done and where I am going on the project.<O</O
Flush transmission and replace filter<O</O
Change oil (again) and maybe a 3<SUP>rd</SUP> time before giving it back.<O</O
Change diff fluids<O</O
Flush radiator and cooling system<O</O
Finish mounting the K&N filter (so its not just hanging there)<O</O
Install 3 inch down pipe and cat delete pipe (keep the stock 3 ½ inch muffler back)<O</O
Repair bent bumper<O</O
Replace broken drivers door handles.<O</O
Detail the crap out of her!!! She is a very dirty girl.<O</O
Address the big issues listed above!!!!!!<O</O
I was able to get the truck running by pumping out the tanks, changing the fuel filter, adding some lubrication additives, and dumping the factory air box (it was broken into chunks and rats had made a nest in the filter) so I added a 4 x 12 K&N ($40 bucks well spent). I was able to limp the truck back to NC from VA (about 200 miles) but it does have the following issues.<O
</O<O
#1. Will not start when cold and dumps a ton of white smoke. I have a feeling its glow plug related and plan to trouble shoot it more starting with the relay.<O
</O<O
</O#2. (the big one) The truck is stumbling randomly. Sometimes it does it under load and sometimes it does it at ideal and dies. It seems to be totally random since it will run great for 20-30 minutes and then just start dyeing again. Sometimes it’s just a miner miss or jerk that you can feel. And other times it’s a series and it throws a light. Once or twice I started slowing down to stop or pulled over and the code went away. And other times the truck died and took a second to crank back up.<O
</O<O
</O#3. This is not a huge issue but it looks like the valve covers could have a small leak. It is not dripping on the ground or running down the side of the block yet. But I will probably just replace them since I know they can cause some crazy issues with the powerstrokes.<O
</O<O
</OI am doing this for my grandfather for all the times he helped me work on my little projects when I was younger. He pulls a lot of mountains and the truck needs to be sound before I give it back to him in a few weeks. This is my Christmas gift to him.<O
</O<O
</OThis is what still needs to be done and where I am going on the project.<O
</OFlush transmission and replace filter<O
</OChange oil (again) and maybe a 3<SUP>rd</SUP> time before giving it back.<O
</OChange diff fluids<O
</OFlush radiator and cooling system<O
</OFinish mounting the K&N filter (so its not just hanging there)<O
</OInstall 3 inch down pipe and cat delete pipe (keep the stock 3 ½ inch muffler back)<O
</ORepair bent bumper<O
</OReplace broken drivers door handles.<O
</ODetail the crap out of her!!! She is a very dirty girl.<O
</OAddress the big issues listed above!!!!!!<O
</O
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 11,132
Likes: 3
From: Southern West Virginia
Thanks for looking every one. I could use some help on my grandfathers 96 F250 PSD. The reason I currently have the truck is because my grandfather is 74 years old and knows almost nothing about diesels or how they work. He has been a gas guy for the last 25 years but after driving my LB7 chevy he has crossed over to the dark side. Unfortunately he may have gone about it a little wrong. He picked up a 96 extended cab automatic 4x4 work truck from a construction company. The company went out of business 3 years ago when the owner died and the trucks have been sitting since 2009. He did get what I consider a good deal on the truck at 3800 bucks but of course she needs a lot of TLC.
I was able to get the truck running by pumping out the tanks, changing the fuel filter, adding some lubrication additives, and dumping the factory air box (it was broken into chunks and rats had made a nest in the filter) so I added a 4 x 12 K&N ($40 bucks well spent). I was able to limp the truck back to NC from VA (about 200 miles) but it does have the following issues.<O</O
<O
#1. Will not start when cold and dumps a ton of white smoke. I have a feeling its glow plug related and plan to trouble shoot it more starting with the relay.<O</O
<O</O
#2. (the big one) The truck is stumbling randomly. Sometimes it does it under load and sometimes it does it at ideal and dies. It seems to be totally random since it will run great for 20-30 minutes and then just start dyeing again. Sometimes it’s just a miner miss or jerk that you can feel. And other times it’s a series and it throws a light. Once or twice I started slowing down to stop or pulled over and the code went away. And other times the truck died and took a second to crank back up.<O</O
<O</O
#3. This is not a huge issue but it looks like the valve covers could have a small leak. It is not dripping on the ground or running down the side of the block yet. But I will probably just replace them since I know they can cause some crazy issues with the powerstrokes.<O</O
<O</O
I am doing this for my grandfather for all the times he helped me work on my little projects when I was younger. He pulls a lot of mountains and the truck needs to be sound before I give it back to him in a few weeks. This is my Christmas gift to him.<O</O
<O</O
This is what still needs to be done and where I am going on the project.<O</O
Flush transmission and replace filter<O</O
Change oil (again) and maybe a 3<SUP>rd</SUP> time before giving it back.<O</O
Change diff fluids<O</O
Flush radiator and cooling system<O</O
Finish mounting the K&N filter (so its not just hanging there)<O</O
Install 3 inch down pipe and cat delete pipe (keep the stock 3 ½ inch muffler back)<O</O
Repair bent bumper<O</O
Replace broken drivers door handles.<O</O
Detail the crap out of her!!! She is a very dirty girl.<O</O
Address the big issues listed above!!!!!!<O</O
I was able to get the truck running by pumping out the tanks, changing the fuel filter, adding some lubrication additives, and dumping the factory air box (it was broken into chunks and rats had made a nest in the filter) so I added a 4 x 12 K&N ($40 bucks well spent). I was able to limp the truck back to NC from VA (about 200 miles) but it does have the following issues.<O
</O<O
#1. Will not start when cold and dumps a ton of white smoke. I have a feeling its glow plug related and plan to trouble shoot it more starting with the relay.<O
</O<O
</O#2. (the big one) The truck is stumbling randomly. Sometimes it does it under load and sometimes it does it at ideal and dies. It seems to be totally random since it will run great for 20-30 minutes and then just start dyeing again. Sometimes it’s just a miner miss or jerk that you can feel. And other times it’s a series and it throws a light. Once or twice I started slowing down to stop or pulled over and the code went away. And other times the truck died and took a second to crank back up.<O
</O<O
</O#3. This is not a huge issue but it looks like the valve covers could have a small leak. It is not dripping on the ground or running down the side of the block yet. But I will probably just replace them since I know they can cause some crazy issues with the powerstrokes.<O
</O<O
</OI am doing this for my grandfather for all the times he helped me work on my little projects when I was younger. He pulls a lot of mountains and the truck needs to be sound before I give it back to him in a few weeks. This is my Christmas gift to him.<O
</O<O
</OThis is what still needs to be done and where I am going on the project.<O
</OFlush transmission and replace filter<O
</OChange oil (again) and maybe a 3<SUP>rd</SUP> time before giving it back.<O
</OChange diff fluids<O
</OFlush radiator and cooling system<O
</OFinish mounting the K&N filter (so its not just hanging there)<O
</OInstall 3 inch down pipe and cat delete pipe (keep the stock 3 ½ inch muffler back)<O
</ORepair bent bumper<O
</OReplace broken drivers door handles.<O
</ODetail the crap out of her!!! She is a very dirty girl.<O
</OAddress the big issues listed above!!!!!!<O
</OThe stumbling could be the CPS, change that first and see what happens. Also check the oil level, make sure it's full or that can cause problems. Oil is what runs the injectors.
Make sure you use the correct coolant with the proper SCAs in it, such as Fleetcharge.
And finally, please don't put that K&N filter on it. They let too many fines through and will dust the turbo and can dust the cylinders. Get a 6637 intake kit from Riffraff Diesel.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 198
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Thanks for the advice on the K&N. I am not a big fan of them myself and plan on swapping it out as soon as i get some of the other issues fixed. The only reason its on there is so i could get the truck back to NC where i have tools and time. The old air box was destroyed and offered no protection at all.ffice
ffice" /><O></O>
I also changed the oil. (very first thing before even trying to start her) It was nasty!. But i did re check it when i got home and it is right at the full mark. Black as night again but thats to be expected.
ffice" /><O></O>I also changed the oil. (very first thing before even trying to start her) It was nasty!. But i did re check it when i got home and it is right at the full mark. Black as night again but thats to be expected.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,303
Likes: 1
X2^^^! First things first, return the K&N before you destroy the turbo. I also read that you added some lubricant additives? Do not add anything to the oil, as they often cause the oil to foam and can cause problems with our HEUI systems. Fleet charge, the john deer coolant, or CAT coolant are all good to run as they come precharged with the correct SCA's to prevent cavitation. Once again, reiterating what Bill beat me to the punch on lol, it sounds like a CPS problem.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2012
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LOL no love for the K&N i see. Like i said it was that or no filter. But after the strong comments i am pulling it off and dropping back in the box.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
<o></o>
And no I didn’t add anything to the oil (waste of money IMOP) It was fuel stabilizer to the tanks.<o></o>
fficeffice" /><o></o><o
></o>And no I didn’t add anything to the oil (waste of money IMOP) It was fuel stabilizer to the tanks.<o
></o>
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,303
Likes: 1
LOL no love for the K&N i see. Like i said it was that or no filter. But after the strong comments i am pulling it off and dropping back in the box.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
<o></o>
And no I didn’t add anything to the oil (waste of money IMOP) It was fuel stabilizer to the tanks.<o></o>
fficeffice" /><o></o><o
></o>And no I didn’t add anything to the oil (waste of money IMOP) It was fuel stabilizer to the tanks.<o
></o>
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 11,132
Likes: 3
From: Southern West Virginia
Get a CPS from Ford or IH. The parts store ones are known to not be very good. Not saying 100% that's the problem, but it's a good and inexpensive place to start.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
Don't forget to change the fuel filter. You'll also likely need to clean the FPR screen.
For the oil leaks, make sure it's the valve covers and not something else. The gasket is rubber, so unless it's damaged, it could just be some loose valve cover bolts, or it could be worn o-rings for the HPOP hoses where they go into the head. Grab a flashlight and look in the valley (top of the motor between the heads) and see if you've got any large puddles of oil.
For the oil leaks, make sure it's the valve covers and not something else. The gasket is rubber, so unless it's damaged, it could just be some loose valve cover bolts, or it could be worn o-rings for the HPOP hoses where they go into the head. Grab a flashlight and look in the valley (top of the motor between the heads) and see if you've got any large puddles of oil.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2012
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Likes: 0
Don't forget to change the fuel filter. You'll also likely need to clean the FPR screen.
For the oil leaks, make sure it's the valve covers and not something else. The gasket is rubber, so unless it's damaged, it could just be some loose valve cover bolts, or it could be worn o-rings for the HPOP hoses where they go into the head. Grab a flashlight and look in the valley (top of the motor between the heads) and see if you've got any large puddles of oil.
For the oil leaks, make sure it's the valve covers and not something else. The gasket is rubber, so unless it's damaged, it could just be some loose valve cover bolts, or it could be worn o-rings for the HPOP hoses where they go into the head. Grab a flashlight and look in the valley (top of the motor between the heads) and see if you've got any large puddles of oil.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,386
Likes: 1
From: Spokane, WA
I just read through this thread and think your getting advice from the best of the best, but I didn't notice if anyone mentioned the CPS should only be purchased from Ford or IH, It seems like the ones purchased from most parts stores can be bad from the get go. One of those things that you really get what you pay for 
Oh ya it's very cool what your doing for your Grandpa
Damit i'm just to old to keep up with these youngsters
Oh ya it's very cool what your doing for your Grandpa
Damit i'm just to old to keep up with these youngsters
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2012
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Thank you he has done a lot for me over the years. I am a diesel guy at heart and love learning on new trucks. The only ford diesel i have ever owned was a 94 IDI with factory turbo so the PSD is a hole new game for me.
Any way. I pulled the FPR screen and it was damaged. Looked like someone else may have tried to remove it but failed. It was bent up and looked like a corner of it was missing. Also a good bit of junk in it.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
Any way. I pulled the FPR screen and it was damaged. Looked like someone else may have tried to remove it but failed. It was bent up and looked like a corner of it was missing. Also a good bit of junk in it.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o></o>
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2012
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So any one know where I can get a FPR screen. This one is toast lol.
<O</O
And thanks for the advice everyone on the 6637 intake. I just order one from riffraff diesel along with a diamond eye 3 inch down pipe and cat delete pipe.<O></O>
<O</O
The one other thing I forgot to list. After I get the little issues fixed and the intake/exhaust are done I am strongly thinking about sending the ECU to DP tuners and letting them do a economy/tow tune for the truck. I am hoping this will pick up a little MPG but also firm up the shift points to protect the transmission. We do a lot of tight mountain towing. <O></O>
<O
</OAnd thanks for the advice everyone on the 6637 intake. I just order one from riffraff diesel along with a diamond eye 3 inch down pipe and cat delete pipe.<O
></O><O
</OThe one other thing I forgot to list. After I get the little issues fixed and the intake/exhaust are done I am strongly thinking about sending the ECU to DP tuners and letting them do a economy/tow tune for the truck. I am hoping this will pick up a little MPG but also firm up the shift points to protect the transmission. We do a lot of tight mountain towing. <O
></O>
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,870
Likes: 47
From: Tennessee
MAKE SURE YOUR SENSOR COMES FROM FORD ! I just met a man that spent 5 grand on a 7.3 because of a bad sensor from a well known parts store . Also ck all your valve cover gasket connectors . The gasket connectors and wiring go bad and cause problems . I have replaced many gaskets and injector / glowplug harneses for that problem .
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Joliet, IL
Its nice to see a guy driving a different brand of truck not bashing someone else's. It seems like all the wanna be hillbillies from the city here in Illinois try and bash each others rigs. Frankly, it reminds me of high school and all that unnecessary drama.
And its awesome what your doing for you Grandpa. Mines a Cummins guy and only lets me do all the crap around the house.lol.
But post some pics of the rig when you get a chance and I hiope you work all the bugs out.
And its awesome what your doing for you Grandpa. Mines a Cummins guy and only lets me do all the crap around the house.lol.
But post some pics of the rig when you get a chance and I hiope you work all the bugs out.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Joliet, IL
And how many miles are on this truck? Because if it is anywhere near 200-230K I would suggest rebuilding the trans if you have the change under the seat cushions. These trucks did not come with the Torqshift and are usually the first thing to go. With the towing in the mountains being in the future, find your self a trans cooler, Kevlar clutches and steel planetary gears. And think about an EGT gauge.
Chad
Chad