While I'm browsing the forums for possible answers and ideas I thought I'd toss this out there and see if anyone can offer some suggestions.

The A/C in the truck would work great then kick off and blow warm air. Turn the A/C off, wait a bit, turn it on again and it would work. Checked the clutch gap and it was out of spec.

So, after we got done cleaning the throttle body (complete removal, cleanup, reinstall) we moved on to the clutch. Removed plate, removed washer, reinstalled. Gap was at 0.020. Tried A/C. Nothing. Doesn't engage. Blows outside air.

Checked fuse for A/C clutch. Fuse is fine. Swapped it with another 15 amp and still didn't work.

At this point, I'm looking for suggestions on what to check. Prior to the throttle body clean and removing the spacer in the clutch, the A/C worked, just not all the time. Now it doesn't work at all.

Thanks for any suggestions! I'll keep doing my own research on the forums to see what I can find also!

-- Jess

 

Start your research in the FAQs above....

 

Update:

Jumped the connection and the compressor kicked on, clutch engaged and spun.

Unfortunately no one in WI seems to rent/loan manifold gauges so I'm unable to easily check the pressure. I either have to buy a set or try and find someone who has a set and borrow it from them.

Either way, replaced the low pressure switch and that didn't work but no big deal. It was cheap enough and being old, probably didn't hurt to replace anyways. According to my step dad, whose truck it is, the A/C has been blowing cold air right up until the end. Cold enough that it'll freeze you out of the truck. For the last two years it has been working then stopping, as described in several posts. Sometimes, if he turns it off for 20 minutes, it'll work again. Other times it doesn't work until the next day.

So, I guess thats where we are right now. Until we find a set of gauges (or buy one) theres not much more we can do or report until someone else has another idea of things that can be checked.

Thanks!

-- Jess

 

That's correct. Connecting a set of manifold gauges is step one in a/c diagnosis, period.

 

Is it normal that it would blow ice cold air and then the next day not work because the pressure is too low from a leak? I would think that as the refrigerant is leaking out, the temperature of the air would gradually get warmer.

 

WI does not allow the sale of refrigeration equipment or refrigerants to people who do not have an AC license. If you are near a border, cross over and get what you need. I am on the Minn border, and work there, so that's what I do. Mail order/Internet is probably another route you could go, but some may not sell to you for the same reason.

Check the clutch gap first quick and easy and free:

Find the AC compressor under the hood. If you don't know what is what, this is the belt-driven accessory that has a pulley that typically looks like it has 3 low ***** on it. That's the clutch plate. It helps to do this when the weather is warm - at least 60F - so that the system has enough pressure to operate correctly. Low temps= low freon pressures, and the system won't run as it trips the low pressure cut-out switch. Start the car, put it on MAX AC to ensure the compressor will run (give it 10 sec to make sure it kicks on). Now go look at the compressor. Is the clutch turning with the pully or is it stationary? If it is not turning, give it a tap on the front face of it (towards the pulley) with a screwdriver handle or broom handle or stick. OBVIOUSLY you need to be careful not to get anything (tool/hand/hair/etc) caught in a belt or pulley when you do this. If the clutch suddenly engages when you do this, then the clutch gap is too wide from wear over time. The fix is to pull the clutch and remove one of the clutch shims on the compressor shaft to tighten up the gap and bring it back in spec again so it works. That is easy to do.

You need to hold the clutch still so it does not turn. Wedging it with a pry bar or something helps. Remove the center nut/bolt and then use a couple screwdrivers or flat bars to pry the clutch off by working around it in a few places bit by bit. You will see a couple thin small washers on the shaft - they might be hidden up in the clutch or on the compressor - depends on the model. Typically removing one of them will do the trick. Normal clutch gap is 0.014-0.030" (But that does vary slightly by model). If there is a really thin one and a thicker one, you probably want to pull the thicker one. Reassemble and try it out.

 

You're getting the cart in front of the horse. Connect a manifold set and monitor pressure before doing anything else. This is the first step in troubleshooting your a/c system. If you don't do this first, then you're just guessing and flying blind.


You can get a "refrigeration license" for $15 and about an hour of your time taking an open book test online. Just Google EPA 609.

 

In the state of Wisconsin, only a licensed business may buy refrigerants including R134a. I'm not going to go through all the trouble to get a business license

On the other hand, I do have a place in northern WI that is close to Michigan.

 

With a 609 certification, you can mail order refrigerant.

Just curious. Do they let you buy Rat Poison in Wisconsin? It's MUCH more dangerous.

 

I never claimed the Wisconsin State Gov't made decisions that make sense

 

But have you checked the clutch gap? This is a VERY common failure with older Fords, and free and easy to fix. It can be an intermittent problem, though yours sounds a bit different, if you are describing it accurately.

You could also replace the high pressure switch, which could be the culprit too. It does kind of sound like a sensor or bad connection problem. But check the clutch first and adjust if it needs it. After that you will need to either troubleshoot electrical issues and/or find AC gages to progress further.

-Dave

 

If you allow sale of rat poison unregulated, many politicians and lobbyists would be at risk.

 

I appreciate your advice Dave, and yes, in my first post I mentioned that we brought the clutch gap into spec. I apologize for not replying to your first post when you mentioned it though.

Again, I do appreciate any and all suggestions that people have.

-- Jess

 

Whoops - Sorry - I didn't read close enough. Yes, you need a gage set now...

You can check out connections on the electrical end of things too, while you are looking for a gage set, but you really need the gages here.

-Dave

 

You make a very good point, however, if rat poison were available only for use on rats, it sounds like politicians would be one of the correct uses for it. You know, rat poison for use on rats.