I have some more questions concerning my '66 F100;

How do I remove the rear brake drums?

Where can I find a wiring diagram to install a new ignition switch? The previous owner installed a generic switch with screw in connections. Also, the new switch I rec'd is not marked as to where what wire goes where!

Last question, I paid $2K for my truck here in Texas, '66 F100 custom cab, 352,3 speed manual, short bed. Ir runs and drives, but needs some minor repairs. Some surface rust, will look great when it gets painted! Is this price about the norm!

 

Your price was fair as far as I know. I paid 3200 for mine in MN.

The rear brake drums are usualy removed with great difficulty. Frankly they suck grass to get apart.

1) Lift truck and set it on jackstands, Remove tires.
2) I have found sparying Deep Creep or WD40 around the studs and flange and letting it sit for a day to help a bit.
3) Take a big hammer and some prybars. Apply pressure lightly behind the drum using the backing plate as a fulcrum point. DO NOT PRY HARD! You will bend the backing plate! Start beating the ever lovin heck out of the drum. Work around the sides. Near the studs and around the center flange while applying pressure to the prybars. At some point hopefuly the drum will release. If not.....you can beat it till it cracks and comes in pieces or heat it with a torch and hope it releases from the heat. NOTE: Dont wait till it cools as the steel will actualy contract tighter after it has been heated and cooled!

This is not usualy a fun job. I actualy take mine off annually to make it easier when I have to do brakes. Buy new shoes, a hardware kit, and a self adjuster kit. This adds a bit to the cost but saves headaches later. Oh yeah, Do one side at a time. That way you can look at the asembled side if you get confused.

As for a wiring diagram, LMC sells a wiring diagram for your year or you can buy a 65-85 ford truck Chiltons manual.

 

I recently took my rear drums off to inspect them. Just thought I'd add that one side was relatively easy, and one side was a nightmare.

While the biggest help was a hammer, adjusting the brakes all the way in helped me also.

Good luck.

 

Majority of the Ford part supplier's carry the wiring diag. manual. Jim Osborn reproductions offer's the manual for $7, plus s/h., which believe is same manual supplier's carry. There's a laminated color diag. offered on ebay I would not waste my money on, actually did and found it useless. If intend disassembling the truck, the interior/exterior assembly manual can be very helpful, but it's considerably more, around $25. Will attempt to pm diag. of switch circuit, just let me know if don't rec'v it. Also, if PO replaced with aftermarket switch may be some components mission; if so, the switch consist of 3-4 items and perhaps member(s) can provide pic, or list of items that make up the asembly.

***Opps, may have sent link to wrong member; if so, sorry to the other member I will try again.


Goes without saying, removing drums can be a major pain in the backside. In additon to advice members mentioned; found using an air hose to blow out some of the residual brake dust, then flush with aerosol can of brake cleaner will help. Make sure to place something underneath, it can make a mess. If able to back off even better. Might want to release the tension on emergency brake cables at the actuating lever underneath truck approx. area where cab and bed meet, likely will need to adjust emergency brake once brakes shoes are installed anyway. Anyhow, had an urge to chime in.

 

Thanks for the info! I rec'd the wiring diagram, but only showed a yellow wire?

 

I used a puller on the rear drums, popped right off. Drums and shoes ok, no fluid coming to the wheel cylinders! I replaced the rubber hose from the frame to the rear axle, that was the problem, it was stopped up. Looks like the rear brakes had not worked in years!

As far as the ignition switch wiring, the new switch terminals are not marked, even though the supplier swears they are, my eyes are old, but not that old! Guess I will have to return the ignition switch and find one that is marked!

 

To remove the drums, get a couple of screwdrivers ...flathead of course...if you dont have a regular brake adjusting tool and back the starwheel adjuster off...you gotta shove one of the springs away from the star to make it easier to turn the star....once you get them backed off the drum may not slide right off...if you can get it to come off some...shove it back on and pull it back out each time it should get a bit further off...once you get to where the shoes are visible a little bit just tap them off alternating sides until its off...you can also take some sand paper and sand the rust from around the axle shaft where the drum sits over it. use something like wd40 to flush the rust you sanded off away and all will be well in getting it off.
The max amount of over size is .060"..any reputable repair shop will have a brake drum mic to measure them. If they need to be turned, it runs around 12-15 each.
Dont heat the outer edge...you will ruin the temper of the steel and basicly ruin it altogether...a heat source would be the absolute last resort!!!


Ignition switch wiring...theres a rubber plug with a hole to go over the switches center stud which 2 or 3 wires go on with nuts and/or washers between them typically for accessories like radios, etc.
The plug cannot be bought seperate as its part of the main dash harness. That would be a wrecking yard piece...just dont hack up a good harness as that peeves some off bigtime. A good harness is one thats not already been cut into.




Hope this helps, cs65

 

Where in Texas are you? I'm in Houston with my 65. We both joined FTE a day or so apart....

 

I am in Brownsboro Texas, 20 miles west of Tyler, Tx. My son lives in Missouri City southwest of Houston.

 

Thanks for the info. The wiring harness has already been cutup @ the ignition switch! Someone wired in a after market switch, looks like a switch from a piece of equipment. If I could find a diagram for the new switch terminals, I could wire it up. The new switch is not labeled as to what wire goes to what terminal!

 

Well I have not been able to find the pig tail that connects to the ignition switch, have made a lot of phone calls and no one has the pig tail, even tried a 66 mustang pig tail, not the same.
So I finally took my test meter and located the terminals on the new switch (the equiment switch is labeled) and will use crimp on terminals to wire it. Problem solved!

 

finally found the ignition switch pigtail. One of my cousins has a 64 step side that had been wrecked years ago and it has been sitting in the woods with trees gowing up thru it. No engine or trans but is does have a good grill and front bumper. It had a good tailgate til the cousin hooked a chain to the bed to pull it out of the trees!