Seek steering box advice
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Casa Grande
Seek steering box advice
My steering wheel has 3-4 inches of play at the wheel. Tracked it down to inside the steering box. I see they are adjustable and I have no leaks. Are they easy to adjust? Truck has 150,000 miles, should I rebuild or replace box anyway? Thanks for the opinions.
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From: Virginia
I would just replace it. Mine had play, and I adjusted it, but about a year later the bottom seal blew out at a very inconvenient moment. The parts stores have rebuilt ones, you just turn yours in. I can't remember, but I think it was around $150 with the core.
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Freshman User
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From: Casa Grande
Watched the two joints in the engine bay. Both side move of each joint move together. Have tilt wheel but can't see that joint too check it. Just wanted to get a feel for how many were adjusted or rebuilt successfully before trying.
My factory manual talks about measuring inch pounds to turn the wheel when adjusting the box. My inch pound torque wrenches are hard to read at low settings.
My factory manual talks about measuring inch pounds to turn the wheel when adjusting the box. My inch pound torque wrenches are hard to read at low settings.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
You can adjust it in small increments till you think the play in the box is better. You can get it too tight, and you will know this because when you turn the wheel while driving, it won't want to come back to center readily like it used to. Also if you keep adjusting it, and you suddenly have a stiff spot when you turn the wheel, then your steering box is not centered while the wheels are going straight down the road. The box is made to be tighter in the center for good road feel and control, and loose on either side for easy parking lot maneuvers.
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Joined: May 2007
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The available adjustment is really only to get a new (or reconditioned) box working properly. Most driving is done with only a few (relatively) degrees of movement. After a while, the 'driving' part of the gears wears more than the 'parking' section. Adjusting the box might make the 'driving' feel better, but it will usually bind the more the wheel is turned. There is no fix (that I know of) for this apart from getting the box rebuilt.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 570
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From: Austin Texas (area)
You can buy a reman unit from RockAuto for $120+shipping(no sales tax) and with the customer code there is a 5% discount on the unit price. RA has other reman units at a higher price, but the brand sold for 120 is very good in my experiences with it. Check your local parts sellers for prices. Wherever you buy, your old unit is part of the deal and of course tax is too. I'd just change it out rather than fool with a 20+ yr old mechanical piece.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Northern California
I agree with Ozstang. You can get away with adjusting it for awhile, or to take care of a small problem, but after awhile there is no more adjustment you can do and the box must be rebuilt or replaced.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Phoenix, AZ
i just had this problem on my truck. don't get too stuck on thinkin its the steering box until you are sure that:
1. ball joints/king pins are good
2. tie rod ends are good
3. drag/center link is good
i thought mine had to do with the steering box, when it was actually a little bit of play in all 3 above. a very small amount of play in a couple of different spots can fool ya into thinkin it's your steering box. i bought a complete set of drag link and 2 tie rod ends off of ebay for 65 bucks, and that was including shipping. they came with all the hardware and pre-lubed, and they came from a company in detroit. i did have to adjust the steering box about a quarter turn on the adjuster screw, but 90 percent of the problem was in all the ball type joints.
1. ball joints/king pins are good
2. tie rod ends are good
3. drag/center link is good
i thought mine had to do with the steering box, when it was actually a little bit of play in all 3 above. a very small amount of play in a couple of different spots can fool ya into thinkin it's your steering box. i bought a complete set of drag link and 2 tie rod ends off of ebay for 65 bucks, and that was including shipping. they came with all the hardware and pre-lubed, and they came from a company in detroit. i did have to adjust the steering box about a quarter turn on the adjuster screw, but 90 percent of the problem was in all the ball type joints.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Loganville, WI
I agree Muleguitar. Most of the time when my steering is loose is because of the tie rods, center and/or drag links. Except my Dodge trucks, they usually need new steering boxes. I've had the best luck with Moog suspension parts. I bought a Ford direct replacement tie rod end recently and wasn't moog and it stripped out tighten it down with a rachet and it was hardly tight, guess it was more of that china crap.
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Freshman User
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From: Casa Grande
Thanks Ozstang for the explanation. Now I understand why and how it wears. I know what to do.
Muleguitar I was watching underneath as a helper turned the wheel nothing moved. Truck tracks well, even on dirt roads. Only starts to wander at 55mph and at 60 hard to keep in lane unless road is very smooth.
Thanks for the help all, I'm learning a lot in these forums.
Muleguitar I was watching underneath as a helper turned the wheel nothing moved. Truck tracks well, even on dirt roads. Only starts to wander at 55mph and at 60 hard to keep in lane unless road is very smooth.
Thanks for the help all, I'm learning a lot in these forums.
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From: Fraziers Bottom, WV
At 150K the following are the factors that cause the vehicle to "wonder" from side to side.
As others have said, You need to check the tie rods, ball joints, rag joint and the amount of play in the column u joints. Just shaking the wheel will not tell you if they are good, warn or bad. The vehicle needs raised and a bar used to check for play.
Wondering at a given speed is not indicative of the steering box. They most always cause the vehicle to wonder at all speeds.
Tires can cause wonder at a given speed.
Check to see if you have a cracked/broken rear leaf spring. Check to see if a center bolts are broken.
The alignment is also a factor in this and if it is out a small amount and something is warn it will amplify the feeling.
As others have said, You need to check the tie rods, ball joints, rag joint and the amount of play in the column u joints. Just shaking the wheel will not tell you if they are good, warn or bad. The vehicle needs raised and a bar used to check for play.
Wondering at a given speed is not indicative of the steering box. They most always cause the vehicle to wonder at all speeds.
Tires can cause wonder at a given speed.
Check to see if you have a cracked/broken rear leaf spring. Check to see if a center bolts are broken.
The alignment is also a factor in this and if it is out a small amount and something is warn it will amplify the feeling.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Mexia, TX
Before going too deep into replacing a bunch of parts, make sure your radius arm and I-beam bushings are good. If they're worn out or missing, it can cause all sorts of problems. Especially the radius arms, since they're what keeps the front end suspension in its place.
My truck is missing the driver-side radius arm bushing, and it causes more problems than I care to think about. I've found a place that will fix it though. It'll be nice to be able to drive at least someone straight and not have my brains shaken out at every stop sign...lol
My truck is missing the driver-side radius arm bushing, and it causes more problems than I care to think about. I've found a place that will fix it though. It'll be nice to be able to drive at least someone straight and not have my brains shaken out at every stop sign...lol
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