My new bronco
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 82
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My new bronco
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
she cost me $4900. Seats need some work and the carpet needs to be replaced in the rear. Some minor things here and there. I just put on some Pacesetter Shorty headers and replaced plugs and put in a K&N. runs like a champ!
The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 20
From: Caracas, Venezuela
Many around here will tell you PaceSetters aren't that good quality-wise (i haven't used it, so i have no opinion), but if you're happy, then that's great.
If i were you, i wouldn't replace the carpet in the back, i would just take it all out and use a bedliner there, easier to clean and mantain, you might also consider making an access to the fuel tank top from there (to gain easy access to the fuel pump). You also have to be carefull with the K&N if it's a wet filter, the oil used there can damage your MAF sensor (asuming yours is a MAF and not an SD).
Places to look/be aware of possible rust: rear wheel wells, inside the tail-gate.
A Bronco in that shape would be worth around 10,000$ down here, take good care of it!
If i were you, i wouldn't replace the carpet in the back, i would just take it all out and use a bedliner there, easier to clean and mantain, you might also consider making an access to the fuel tank top from there (to gain easy access to the fuel pump). You also have to be carefull with the K&N if it's a wet filter, the oil used there can damage your MAF sensor (asuming yours is a MAF and not an SD).
Places to look/be aware of possible rust: rear wheel wells, inside the tail-gate.
A Bronco in that shape would be worth around 10,000$ down here, take good care of it!
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
Just be careful running 37's with the 8.8 (rear) and the D44 (front) axles... 35's are pushing it when you start talking unsprung weight capacities on those two axles. 37's can break things quickly if you start doing anything rough with them. Another thing to consider is what those axles are geared at with tires so much bigger than stock. Factory gearing was typically 3.55:1 with an optional 4.11:1 available. With 37's I'd be STARTING with 4.56:1 and considering an even taller gear set. The E4OD automatic trans will thank you for it.
I'll second Encho's suggestion about the K&N and MAF. IF yours is MAF, definitely consider going back to a standard paper filter or at least a high quality dry filter.
Its a beautiful truck. Please understand that our suggestions are just suggestions but are based upon experience and knowledge from this forum. Its your truck. We just want to see it last for you.
I'll second Encho's suggestion about the K&N and MAF. IF yours is MAF, definitely consider going back to a standard paper filter or at least a high quality dry filter.
Its a beautiful truck. Please understand that our suggestions are just suggestions but are based upon experience and knowledge from this forum. Its your truck. We just want to see it last for you.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2010
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wow, thanks for the tips. i did some research and i believe that mine is not a MAF system. So would the K&N still be a problem?
The tail gate doesnt have any rust, yet. The seal is shot so I am going to be buying one of those ASAP. The only place I have seen rust on it is above the driver and passenger doors where the water runoff is. Not serious rust but definitely needs to be taken care of.
I was hoping that I wouldnt read anything about my gear ratios.
I have been toying with the idea of getting some 35s and dropping the body lift. Thats alot of work though. Would I just get new gears at a junk yard or buy them new?
The front gears are a Dana 44 not sure the ratio though. Im guessing stock.) Not sure about the back.
Again, thanks for all the tips and suggestions. I am not the one to ignore them!
The tail gate doesnt have any rust, yet. The seal is shot so I am going to be buying one of those ASAP. The only place I have seen rust on it is above the driver and passenger doors where the water runoff is. Not serious rust but definitely needs to be taken care of.
I was hoping that I wouldnt read anything about my gear ratios.
I have been toying with the idea of getting some 35s and dropping the body lift. Thats alot of work though. Would I just get new gears at a junk yard or buy them new?The front gears are a Dana 44 not sure the ratio though. Im guessing stock.) Not sure about the back.
Again, thanks for all the tips and suggestions. I am not the one to ignore them!
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The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 20
From: Caracas, Venezuela
Gears must be bought new definitely (and matched front/rear), as those kind of hardened parts show little signs of fatigue before failing, and you won't be able to tell good used ones from worn ones. Also, take into consideration that high gears are mostry intended for off-road/hauling, and probably didn't have an easy life. I've been hearing a lot of good stuff about Yukon gears lately, but there are several great brands, just look around.
About the tailgate, the main issue is that water doesn't have an efficient way to get out the tail-gate, there are several options (like drilling lower holes), do a little research and take a pick.
And yeah... those water runoffs tend to crack a little and then rust appears, i'll try a treatment on them soon (maybe a little bedliner stripe up there, wich won't be vissible).
The Mass Air Flow will have two hoses joining together (one above the other) before accesing the air filter box. The Speed Density will have 2 hoses side by side accesing the box separatedly, that's the easy way to tell what you have. It's a sad thing you might not have MAF, as it adapts easier to mods.
About the tailgate, the main issue is that water doesn't have an efficient way to get out the tail-gate, there are several options (like drilling lower holes), do a little research and take a pick.
And yeah... those water runoffs tend to crack a little and then rust appears, i'll try a treatment on them soon (maybe a little bedliner stripe up there, wich won't be vissible).
The Mass Air Flow will have two hoses joining together (one above the other) before accesing the air filter box. The Speed Density will have 2 hoses side by side accesing the box separatedly, that's the easy way to tell what you have. It's a sad thing you might not have MAF, as it adapts easier to mods.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 1
Nice Rig,
I would get 4.56 or 4.88 gears for those tires. Your not going to find them in a junk yard since there not stock on any truck. I think you might look into a full float kit and truss also. You could trade the 8.8 for a 9", but then you have to make provisions for speed sensors.
I would get 4.56 or 4.88 gears for those tires. Your not going to find them in a junk yard since there not stock on any truck. I think you might look into a full float kit and truss also. You could trade the 8.8 for a 9", but then you have to make provisions for speed sensors.
New User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1
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I have a 1995 Bronco 5.0 with the MAF set-up. I was thinking about going with the K&N but know I am confused by what i have read here. Doesn't K&N make the set-up for trucks with the MAF? I thought I saw it on there site. Sorry i am still earning and my knowledge is very basic.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 82
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Nice Rig,
I would get 4.56 or 4.88 gears for those tires. Your not going to find them in a junk yard since there not stock on any truck. I think you might look into a full float kit and truss also. You could trade the 8.8 for a 9", but then you have to make provisions for speed sensors.
I would get 4.56 or 4.88 gears for those tires. Your not going to find them in a junk yard since there not stock on any truck. I think you might look into a full float kit and truss also. You could trade the 8.8 for a 9", but then you have to make provisions for speed sensors.
provisions for speed sensors?