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I had a frontend wobble problem and put on the Hawk LTS pads with Wagner Lifetime warranty rotors from Oreilys. The wobble problem is fixed and I feel it has smoother stopping now. Didn't want to spend the extra on the slotted PowerSlot rotors.
While I admit that driving habits are the biggest factor in brake component longevity, rotors are a wear part and while rotors that are under specification will still stop a vehicle, some loss would be expected. Therefore, your claim illustrates that you either don't keep your vehicles long or don't mind degraded brake function or both.
That's fine by me, but hardly addresses the original post.
OTOH, I do completely agree with your previous post regarding running these pads out and then turning the rotors on the next change.
The original post is rarely addressed in every subsequent post.
There is visible groove in the rotor -- and the rotor is visibly thinner than the passenger side. But the rotor looks to be at least .250" wide. So my theory was put on the new pads -- let them conform to the worn rotor -- when the pad wears out, replace both. I run her up to 70 mph, hit the brakes as hard as I can, and she stops evenly -- no side pull. If I feel something out of whack later, I'll dig into it again.
Any idea what the breaking distance should be? I could measure off and do a test. In case you are wondering -- I live in a rural location ;-)
There is visible groove in the rotor -- and the rotor is visibly thinner than the passenger side. But the rotor looks to be at least .250" wide. So my theory was put on the new pads -- let them conform to the worn rotor -- when the pad wears out, replace both. I run her up to 70 mph, hit the brakes as hard as I can, and she stops evenly -- no side pull. If I feel something out of whack later, I'll dig into it again.
Any idea what the breaking distance should be? I could measure off and do a test. In case you are wondering -- I live in a rural location ;-)
To each their own.... if the rotor is visibly thinner when compared to the other side then you need to replace. The rotors are supposed to either be replaced or machined in pairs to ensure even wear and performance. Have you bedded in the pads yet? If not - you need to do so and then repeat your 70mph test. The bedding process transfers some pad materials to the rotors as well as does some outgassing on the pads to reduce fade and helps reduce symptoms of rotor warpage.
I'm generally in agreement with Exv10. The point is what's the risk if I do what I've described? Are we talking about a 95% chance of front driver's-side break failure? 5%? And what exactly does that mean? It does not seem to me the rotors/pads are going to explode. Maybe my breaking distance is shortened by 100'? 50'? 25'? 10'? I have three in-spec brakes (well.. I guess they are in-spec, I didn't actually measure them), and one that's a bit out-of-spec (the inner surface seems to be ok, the outer surface is as I described). My guess is I'll get 20 to 40K miles on them as-is, and then it might be time to replace both front rotors/pads. I'm not looking for a highly tuned sports car -- just a reliable vehichle to haul the family around.
I'm certain you have Jethro Bodine's approval to mechanic your jalopy in any way you see fit. I'm just saying that you don't need to guess when engineered specs are readily available. If the rotor is "visibly thinner", that says a lot. By your standards, you should have just kept running on the grinding pads. What's the big deal? You've got 3 good ones anyway.
I swear this is the goofiest board I visit. There must be something in the cab construction of the excursion that eats braincells of people who drive them. I think I'm going to eliminate my risk and get rid of mine.
I'm certain you have Jethro Bodine's approval to mechanic your jalopy in any way you see fit. I'm just saying that you don't need to guess when engineered specs are readily available. If the rotor is "visibly thinner", that says a lot. By your standards, you should have just kept running on the grinding pads. What's the big deal? You've got 3 good ones anyway.
I swear this is the goofiest board I visit. There must be something in the cab construction of the excursion that eats braincells of people who drive them. I think I'm going to eliminate my risk and get rid of mine.
Delzy - Don't bail too quickly - it's not all that bad. We obviously have someone who wants to redefine braking safety and reliability - the type of vehicle being used wont matter if the OP wont follow basic recommendations. There is no gray area here - if the rotor is damaged it must be replaced to have correct braking performance. Rotors can and do fail and a heavy truck at highway speeds will accelerate failure. I've seen rotors which came apart from just slight stress fractures - granted this was on a track but my friend was lucky to not lose control of the car when the rotor came apart and also shredded a lightweight alloy wheel. Bottom line is we don't know if it will ever show as a drastic failure but the manufacturers put a lot of time and energy into designing parts and their useful service life. Don't guess - it's just not worth it.
I reused a set of rotors when I was young and foolish. Yes, NAPA was just out to sell me a set of rotors and I could get by. Fortunately, in a parking lot, when I hit the brakes, there was an odd sensation. Rotor cracked. Could it have been worse? Probably since I was about to hit the interstate. Was it worth it? I doubt so.
Engineering specs are there for a reason. Unlike many things, they are not so arbitrary. The engineer didn't just pick a number for fun or roll the dice. Is it worth it to save a few bucks? Well, you decide. Very often you can get away with it. That is not the issue. The issue is whether you can pay for it when you DON'T get away with it. Money I can earn back. Body parts are harder to regrow. Lawsuits are even harder to recover from.