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Cleared my codes by doing a relearn yesterday. (see previous post "first engine light")
Just tried to start it today and now it is idling so rough that the truck is bouncing up and down it is also blowing black smoke like crazy. Problem is I am 70 miles from a dealership, and 180 miles from home. If I posted a video would that help anyone diagnose it???
OK I disconnected the ICP no luck. I did find a connector undone and connected it back no luck. This one was on the drivers side of the fan shroud (anyone know what that is for?). Just ran it and stepped on the accelerator and it smoothed out. Kept it like that for a minute, truck warmed up and idle smoothed out. I hope I can make it home tomorrow and get it to my dealer.
First thing if you would put more than just "help" in the title you would get more responses. now about your problem the plug you are talking about. Is it attched to the fan shroud on the drivers side? If so that is your plug for the fan. The ruff idleing cold be a few things. If you could get the codes it would help alot. It might be sticktion, egr valve, ficm, or a number of other things. These are the most comon problems. You might try and unplug the egr valve and see if this helps any, and yes post a video it might help some.
If you cleared your codes then you obviously had a problem to start with. Have the truck scanned and let us know what the codes are. Hard to know where to start and too many possibilities.
Sorry about the title. I posted the codes the other day in another post. I unplugged the EGR valve and still no help. Might go pull it in a few minutes and see if it is stuck. I changed my oil 200 miles ago and decided to try some Hot Shot Secret. I hope this didn't mess anything up. I cleared the codes because the truck was running fine and someone suggested in my other post that it might have been a fluke do to when the CEL came on. I had stepped hard on it to pass someone then noticed the CEL. If it was running like crap the other day I would not have cleared the codes.
Codes from the other day, I don't have access to a code reader till tomorrow:
P0261 Cylinder no. 1 Injector circuit, low
P0264 Cylinder no. 2 Injector circuit, low
P0641 Sensor Reference Voltage A Circuit/Open
P0098 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High
P3B00
P173B Clutch actuator position sensor circuit low
P0017 Crankshaft Position – Camshaft Position Correlation
104000 miles. Changed Fuel Filters 6000 miles ago. Replaced injector right at 100K.
I meant I was going to pull the EGR. I just warmed it up by holding the RPMs at 1100 and it ran smooth while doing so and no smoke. Took it down the road and it ran fine, so I think I can make it home tomorrow.
One question; I have a slight oil leak running down on to my transmission. Coul this bee the crank or CSM sensor that is stated in the above codes and if so could it make it run like crap at idle?
Well I made it home with the best fuel
mileage I have had to date. CEL came on halfway home. I stopped at an autozone and had the codes pulled. All eight injectors circuits are low. Guess it is FICM time. I am going to try checking it this weekend to see if it tests bad. Does anyone know that if I buy a unit an eBay programmed and ready to go, do I still need the dealer?
Well I made it home with the best fuel
mileage I have had to date. CEL came on halfway home. I stopped at an autozone and had the codes pulled. All eight injectors circuits are low. Guess it is FICM time. I am going to try checking it this weekend to see if it tests bad. Does anyone know that if I buy a unit an eBay programmed and ready to go, do I still need the dealer?
There is a repair procedure, hope in the tech file, that you can try before buying one. Has helped numerous people according to previous posts.
There is a repair procedure, hope in the tech file, that you can try before buying one. Has helped numerous people according to previous posts.
There are actually two in the tech folder. The original by Dr. Quad and an upgrade by Pstrang that gives great advice about what to try. At worst you could print it off (or take a laptop) to an electronics repair shop and get an experienced tech to resolder the joints. Shouldn't cost you that much to just try.....