Thanks Gear Up, I appreciate your help. I absolutely trust your opinion and will make it very clear that 8090 is recommended in the tech article. That said, I may have no choice but use 8088 as I have a lot of money tied up in my current interior fabric. Seat and door panels are complete. I like the fabric as it sculpts well. I'll work through this somehow. I would be happy to mail you a sample of my fabric if you would like to check it out.

This first PIC is a side panel with 8090 sprayed on. Three coats per the instructions. It came out non-lacing and very heavy. Much like vinyl top glue. I applied a light spray to the back of a small piece of test fabric. It instantly soaked through and ruined it. I waited about 10 minutes until the glue started to tack and tried to apply my fabric to the side panel. Very poor adhesion. Not what I was accustomed to at all. I sprayed several coats of 8088 over top and let it tack for several minutes. Applied the fabric and it adhered very well. The second photo shows the piece after I worked it with my favorite rookie upholstery tools. Stop laughing, they work for me. You might tell us what a pro uses if you like. I will trim the fabric flush with the edge where it goes under rubber seals and overlap into the tongue and groove and under the window per the instructions. I like to wait until the front is completely dry before I start tugging it around to the backside.

As I proceed, I believe I have two choices at this time. Use 8088 exclusively which Gear Up does not recommend, or lay a few coats of 8090, let it tack a couple minutes and lace it with 8088. I really hate to start making up my own rules and mixing glues but it sure seemed to work on the side panels. Opinions definitely solicited at this point.

http://www.clubfte.com/users/fatfend...epanelglue.jpg

http://www.clubfte.com/users/fatfend...nelfabon_1.jpg

 

Gear Up

After going over your posts, I believe I am going to get a new can of 8090 and try again. The one I have was a bit hesitant to start spraying. It doesn't spray, it squirts very large droplets of glue out no matter how far back I spray. It is much more like a drywall texture gun than a spray pattern. Far too large of glue drops to work on my fabric. Perhaps it is an old or defective can. I removed fabric before it completely set. We'll regroup and try again.

That's why I am here, to figure out the problems.
Thanks

 

'fenders... when we would upholster rigid surfaces with fabric we would brush contact cement (solvent based... the same stuff you use on countertops) on the substrate and spray 3m's 'foam and fabric adhesive' on the fabric. This, if memory serves, was number 88.... It is applied to the fabric at a good distance... up to 18" and at a low trajectory for even coverage. This stuff is basically contact cement with different driers and solvents. Once applied we had no problems with adhesion. If formulae are changed in the spray stuff, as it no doubt would be after 10-12 years, then I wouldn't bet on its adhesion to itself... however, brushing the rigid material... the ABS... with an even coat of contact cement might still offer the best solution... what do you think, Gear?
himmelberg

 

If fenders is willing to send me a sample of the fabric being used of supply me with the numbers for the fabric I am all too willing to take a look at what can be done to remedy this problem. I have given it thought all day and I don't want anyone to have a problem with their project by using what I say is suppose to wirk. If I find that my suggestions are all wrong and misleading I will be glad to say so and help recoop and expences incurred over all of this. That is the best I can do at this time.

 

Gear Up

There are no expenses to recoup at this time. I ruined some little pieces of scrap fabric. I am fighting the flu today but hope to attempt the side panels tomorrow. I have two new cans of glue. A can of 3M 8090 that you suggested and a can of 3M 90 that Rod Doors suggests. The 3M 90 appears to dry a bit faster but has an adjustable pattern spray nozzle. I have talked to several vendors today and they agree with you. Almost all headliner materials are usually installed with 8090. I more than likely just got an old can of glue that would not spray uniformly.

There are no expenses to recoup at this time. I ruined some little pieces of scrap fabric. Even if I had ruined something significant you absolutely will NOT be paying for any ruined materials. A few mistakes along the way is the cost of building a rod. There are no refunds and liability for free advice we all get on FTE. The fact that I have a material that is a challenge to glue is not your fault. Stick around here awhile and you'll soon learn this place is just friends helping friends with their trucks.

 

Re overhead console: I just bolted my custom made TX Mesquite console to an aluminum frame bolted entirely to the center brace. You will have to shim the bracket because the headliner does not fit flush against the brace either.

Re velcro things: I am not certain due to the difficulty I had getting the headliner installed, but it fits so tight I do not think the headliner ended up with any velcro creatures.

Re paint: I wish I had covered the paint with a double or more layer of masking tape. No bad scratches but there are some.

 

Great thread and following closely! I have the Roddoors headliner and overhead console for the air ride gauges and paddle switches.

I have previously installed the headliner but it is not permanent yet (not upholstered). Following the glue issue closely.

I am not particulary pleased with the product but think I can make it work OK. The bottom terminus of the headliner on the back was (and is) no where near straight. Still haven't figured this one out yet but have some ideas.

The console was a first class PITA to cut and fit. The easiest part was fitting the gauge and paddle switches. The angle pieces provided to hold the thing up is attached with the Gonzo velcro pieces but continue to come unglued and fall down. I am going to try a suggestion provided by Roddoors--pop rivets.

This stuff is almost impossible to cut cleanly. Especially to my tolerances. I tried everything! My observations:

Dremmel- Forget about it. Himmel is absolutely correct. Too many RPM's generating too much heat. The melted plastic gums everything up. A local industrial plastics supplier suggests and they use a low speed saber saw with a fine tooth blade. I haven't tried this yet though. I tried every tool made by Dremmel with the same result-melted plastic NOT cut plastic

Utility Knife--the best method I found for cutting the stuff. Multiple passes result in a clean cut. I used a straight edge for tolerance assist

File--works great. Especially a corse one. Helps clean up cuts and knocks off the little shards. My most effective tool for fitting closely was a round file.

I do believe that the stuff does not have to be perfect as the material will cover up some bo-bos. That being said the instuctions do say to take your time for a quality job. They are 100% correct on that one.

On another note--Can you paint this stuff? Anyone know how? No way am I going to try and put cloth on the console. I also plan on using the GM column cover from Julianos and thought it would look cool painted to match/contrast the seats.

Tim

 

On another note--Can you paint this stuff? Anyone know how? No way am I going to try and put cloth on the console. I also plan on using the GM column cover from Julianos and thought it would look cool painted to match/contrast the seats.

Tim


Tim

You would need an outstanding no gap install if you are going to paint. I don't think that is a reasonable expectation. I hope to get the thread started back up with some fabric gluing very soon, maybe tonight. I have the flu real bad, as soon as I can function for thirty minutes, I'll be on it.

 

fenders

I am definately going to upholster the headliner, doorpanels and kickpanels. I am interested in painting the console and GM column cover which is also ABS plastic.

Take some vitamin C and get well soon!

Tim

 

I've had really good luck with painting plastics with a product called Bulldog Adhesion Promoter. It is essentially a clear primer for plastic. Wash the plastic part with warm, soapy water, spray it with the Bulldog stuff, and then follow when dry with the spray paint of your choice. Without it, ABS plastic tends to start shedding paint. I've never had this problem since with the Bulldog. I used to buy it at Autozone. I don't think that they carry the Bulldog brand anymore, but they do carry a similar product that will probably work equally well.

 

Might as well jump in with both feet this time. If the ABS that you are referring to is the same as the ABS used in some of the aviation industry there are some options open to you. The first is put out by Dupont and that is what I have used over the years. You need to acquire the Plastic Prep to clean the surface of the plastic and I suggest that you use Scotch brite to help scrub the plastics. You need to remove any mould release agents and oils that are on the surfaces to be colored. Then you need to get the dye or in this case Dupont calls it Vinyl color. Take a sample of what you wish to match or coordinate to the local Dupont supplier and have them take a picture of it and get is mixed. You can use a regular spray gun to apply the dye or use a pre charged bottle called Preval; it works okay without too much over spray. The other method is put out by PPG and requires putting down an Epoxy base primer before using their vinyl dye coating. When ordering the dye I usually get it in a semi-gloss finish. The flat is chalky looking and the gloss is cheesy looking. I know it is a preference.
Hope it helps

 

I glad you mentioned this. I forgot to document that I did prep the ABS prior to glue. Rod Doors recommends 80 grit paper and that is what I used, followed by a thorough warm water rinse.

The ABS definitely has the oily feel to it previously mentioned. 80 grit would be too rough if you were painting though. I second the suggestion to avoid Glossy finish. I have seen the cheezy gloss on a few of my friends later model trucks.

 

I should have mentioned on my previous pos that when using the plastic prep you NEED to wear latex gloves. It will take all the oils and moisture out of your skin. I woke up one morning and flexed my fingers and felt my fingers and palms crack in a million pieces. It is a must. From what I have rear here there must not be any texture on the surface of the plastic. The ABS that I work with has a grain similar to leather embossed on it. When colored it has a nice finish.

 

I just glued the fabric to my side panels. I'll begin with a safety statement of my own. Don't use aerosol adhesives too close to an open flame heating system. I was spraying about 10 feet from my garage wall heater. It's a real bad poisonous gas in your lungs kind of feeling.

I used the 3M 90 adhesive. I believe it is best for my situation. It seems to have the high strength characteristics of 8090. It is way stronger than 8088. It sprays on nearly the same as 8088. The adjustable nozzle works pretty well. It will adjust from a wide lacing pattern down to a narrow heavier spray. The 90 seems to tack significantly quicker the 8090. That is an advantage for my situation due to the glue soak through problem with my fabric. The quicker dry time could be a problem if you were sculpting in a warm environment. There may or may not be a one size fits all glue for our interiors based on my limited experience.

Next step is to wrap the fabric into the T&G slot and then proceed to the center panel.

 

Hey Fenders -

I just had to pipe in and say that this is an excellent thread. I'll be attempting to do a custom interior on our '41 in a few months and there's nothing better than finding out from someone first hand as to what does and doesn't work.

One suggestion - maybe you could talk Kenny into locking this thread at the top so we don't have to go searching for it.