I have a 79 F150 SC that is getting set up for towing and hauling. I want to convert the D44 to D60. I have a 99 D60 that I have recentered to 78-79 axle shaft lengths. Now I just need to figured out the steering. My truck has the push and pull set up and the 60 had side to side. Any ideas on how to make it work.

Anyone put a balljoint 60 in one of these trucks?

 

Any pics of this re-center job?
You wont be able to use the factory style steering since your metric front axle uses a ball joint style knuckle and has no provisions for a steering arm to bolt to it.
Crossover is not really an option without dropping some serious cash, though I believe that re-tube set you back a pretty penny already.
Use the inverted "t" style steering and make a custom drag link to connect the re-indexed pitman arm to the tie rod.
This 78/9 power steering box can be re indexed to sweep from left to right.

What did you do to convert the metric wheel lug pattern?
Are you sure that you have a Dana 60? The only Dana 60 that was available in 99 was the Dually front axle. Did you spend the money to convert one of those or do you actually have a dana 50?
The dana 50 solid axle was standard (in 1999) on all single wheel F250 F350 and all Excursions.

 

Yes, I want to see this re-tubed axle as well!!

Also, they switched all the Superdutys to 60's in like 02-03ish.

 

Ill take a look at turning the pitman arm to go from left to right. I think the leaf is in the way, but ill double check. What do you mean by "inverted t style steering"?

I got the D60 (yes its a 60) empty housing from a F450. Then got a D50 for almost nothing and sleeved the short side and shortened the long side. Ill use the D50 outers and metric hubs. Ill get wheel adapters for the rear 14bolt. (yes a chevy 1ton 14bolt)(BIG breaks). Ill take some pictures of the axle later tonight (hopefully).

 

Yes pictures please..

And I too have3 a D60 front and a GM 14 rear.. And Love that combo

 

I took some pictures but cant seem to figure out how to upload them. I read the how to and still cant get it. Ill try again later or I could mail them to someone.

 

I've worked on ALOT of different axles over the years and just love the strength and ease. I also installed the hydro boost and sag. power steering pump out of a chevy one ton. That was a GREAT mod.

 

I am interested to see how that turned out, though I am not afraid to say that I might not have gone this route. It sounds awful expensive.
I had Dynatrac re-tube an axle as well as rotate my outer "C's" and have to say that it was not cheap.
I cant imagine spending that kind of cash and still ending up with a metric axle that required more modification to bolt up some wheels and it still used unit bearings.
Now I cant knock the unit bearings for smaller vehicles, but fullsize trucks seem to tear these up. The fix is to upgrade to serviceable units and this is not all that cheap either.
I pay a ton of money for 78/9 front 60's but justify the expense by not having to go through the expense of trying to build one.
I just hope you got a heak of a deal on the machine work.

Inverted "T" style steering is the same exact steering that was used on your current axle.
This is made up of a drag link that connects from the pitman arm to the tie rod at the pass side of the axle. Your stock tie rod should have provisions for the drag link to connect.
Ford used this design on F350's from 1986 to 1997 and 99 to 04 Super Duty trucks. This includes the 450 and 550 alike. Actually even the 05 to current Sd's utilize this design.

Here is the idea:



Oh yeah, while may of use use the 14B ff rear axle, not many of use use the stock drum brakes. They are way to heavy and dont offer many advantages over a disc brake conversion.
Try using drums when they fill up with mud.






Can you use some bomb proof diff covers????

 

....not trying to split hairs, but the 05+ Superduty trucks use full crossover steering. The drag link bolts directly to the knuckle.

However, I fully agree with everything you said. That sounds like WAY too much money to spend on an axle that requires an uber-expensive aftermarket knuckle just to attach a hi-steer arm.

 

Still splitting the same hair. While it does connect to the knuckle, it is still at a ver similar point that the tie rod attaches to, and not the top of the knuckle, but point well taken.
I mis spoke / typed.......

 

Off topic....but are those the factory plug welds on that 14 bolt? Or has it been re-tubed?

 

Holy keen eyes batman. Its been modified, but it will cost you a trip to my shop and several cold adult beverages to see why.

Nahhhh, Pm me, Ill tell you.

 

Haha.....I'm a little busy this week. How about I just send you the $850 which I would spend on gas and you can save me the 6 days of driving......

I'll PM you tomorrow....... I'm curious to hear the story. It will most likely provide me with the answer that I have been seeking........

 

This truck is going to be my tow/hauling rig. So it has no lift and it doesnt look like there is enough room for a straight pitman arm going side to side like in the photos (my truck has same suspension as F250). I guess ill just have to mount it all in and see. The SD steering linkage has some bends in it that look like they might fit, IF the pitman arm will work (i have you off a regular F150 ill try).

 

I spent $350 on my crossover kit for my SFA 91 GMC with 12" of lift and a Ford D60 up front

got it from Sky