Identify my rear end?
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Mount pleasant, michigan
Identify my rear end?
hahaha so i was wondering what my ring and pinion setup is soo here goes... i have a 78 f150 ranger 4x4 with a ford 9 inch rear end and a dana 44 up front. I cant find a ID tag on the rear axle. how do i find out what the ratio is? thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2006
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Unfortunately this code only tells you what the truck was born with.
Try that with any of my rigs and you wont come up with anything close to what is there now.
I'd kick it into 4wd to verify that the front and rear do not create a bind, then I would pull the cover from the front and verify the ratio.
This is incredibly easy and does not take much time. 10 bolts and a 1/2" socket is all it takes. While you may have to remove the tie rod, you will not be guessing and will know without a doubt.
Try that with any of my rigs and you wont come up with anything close to what is there now.
I'd kick it into 4wd to verify that the front and rear do not create a bind, then I would pull the cover from the front and verify the ratio.
This is incredibly easy and does not take much time. 10 bolts and a 1/2" socket is all it takes. While you may have to remove the tie rod, you will not be guessing and will know without a doubt.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Hattiesburg, MS
......Or lock the passenger side hub. Leave the driver's side unlocked. Grab the front driveshaft and rotate it while watching the driver's side axle shaft. Count how many times you must rotate the driveshaft for the axleshaft to make one revolution. Then multiply by 2.
However, there are always exceptions and errors. The only 100% way to know for sure is to do as Mr. 350 says and pull the front cover. .....the diff fluid probably needs changing anyways.
However, there are always exceptions and errors. The only 100% way to know for sure is to do as Mr. 350 says and pull the front cover. .....the diff fluid probably needs changing anyways.
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Elder User
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From: Mount pleasant, michigan
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2006
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You are looking for a ring and pinion tooth count.
Each ring gear will have these numbers stamped in the edge of the ring gear.
This number is a large number (2 digit), in this case probably iin the 40's followed by a smaller number around 10.
Divide the larger number by the smaller number and you have your ratio.
This larger nimber is the ring gear count, and the smaller number is the pinion gear tooth count.
Each ring gear will have these numbers stamped in the edge of the ring gear.
This number is a large number (2 digit), in this case probably iin the 40's followed by a smaller number around 10.
Divide the larger number by the smaller number and you have your ratio.
This larger nimber is the ring gear count, and the smaller number is the pinion gear tooth count.
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Mount pleasant, michigan
Well i did the lock out and turn the driveshaft thing and it turns out that i have a 3.50:1 ratio, crap! i need to be able to go faster with low rpms, got any ideas? i only need to gain like 15 mph faster and lower my rpms!
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Mount pleasant, michigan
well it already has 32s all the way around, how many mph would i gain if i got 35s? and what is the lowest gearset i can get for those axles? and how much would they cost? link me please 
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2006
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Are you sure you are using the correct terminology?
High ratios are numerically lower. and low ratios are numerically higher.
Faster wheel speeds and lower rpms means that you had better be making torque like a diesel, and I dont see this happening.
Dont forget that taller tires can lower engine rpms, but require more power to turn as well as stop..
If taller tires and highway gears would be beneficial, we would all be running 44 inch tires with dana 61's and 3.07:1 ratios.
There is a reason why we dont.
Lets verify the terminology, and be sure that we are talking about the same thing here.
High ratios are numerically lower. and low ratios are numerically higher.
Faster wheel speeds and lower rpms means that you had better be making torque like a diesel, and I dont see this happening.
Dont forget that taller tires can lower engine rpms, but require more power to turn as well as stop..
If taller tires and highway gears would be beneficial, we would all be running 44 inch tires with dana 61's and 3.07:1 ratios.
There is a reason why we dont.
Lets verify the terminology, and be sure that we are talking about the same thing here.
Post Fiend
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From: utica il
i don't get this thread to begin with. you only have a 1 to 1 final drive whether it be c-6 or 4spd. how fast do you drive that 3.50 gears and 32's are revving to high? there's only 2 logical swaps that would be as expensive and costly as buying a newer overdrive truck.
gearvendors overdrive or e40d and computer swap
gearvendors overdrive or e40d and computer swap
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From: Hattiesburg, MS
I don't get it either. What kind of speeds are we talking about? And what kind of RPM's are you already turning. You should have no trouble cruising at any sane speed with your current setup. I have an overdrive, but even in direct drive I can run 80mph all day long with 4.56's (35 inch tires).