Headlight hick-up...
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 813
Likes: 1
From: Auburn, Il
Headlight hick-up...
Ok so I went out to start wiring up the light switch this morning, I started the rewire over the weekend. I ran into my first big hurdle... I went to remove the ****, and I've never done this before so I gave her a tug after I tried to twist it off and BAM the rod fell right out in my hand and now I cant get it to go back in. It looks like it has a spot on the end for some type of a lock washer type of thing to keep it in the housing. Anyone have ths happen to them before and is it savable?
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,795
Likes: 129
From: Windermere Valley,B.C. Ca
Yep,….but only to those who don’t have a shop manual. 
On the bottom of the switch there is a small spring loaded button (Julie will have a picture in her gallery) that you push in to release the handle (button and shaft) to install it just pushes in and locks like a snakes tooth (if not damaged).
On the bottom of the switch there is a small spring loaded button (Julie will have a picture in her gallery) that you push in to release the handle (button and shaft) to install it just pushes in and locks like a snakes tooth (if not damaged).
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
If you reach up under the dashboard to the top of the switch you should feel a spring loaded button near the rear. Pressing that button releases the switch **** shaft. Since you have already removed the shaft, you might as well unscrew the trim bezel on the dash face and drop the switch out to take a look at it to see if/howmuch you might have damaged that latch. It has a keyhole shaped hole in it where the shaft goes thru the larger opening when you press the latch down and the narrower part hooks onto the slot when you release it. I suspect it will at least be repairable.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,795
Likes: 129
From: Windermere Valley,B.C. Ca
Wake up, smell the coffee, you mean headlight switch. Right? 
So this is kind of what you have ….(generic pictures……not yours),…. if you carefully clean up the notch on the rod and PUSH the button down on the switch while installing will the rod lock in? If not, you will have to by a new or used handle and maybe the switch for your model of truck! (and a shop manual)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1271779287, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1271779289
So this is kind of what you have ….(generic pictures……not yours),…. if you carefully clean up the notch on the rod and PUSH the button down on the switch while installing will the rod lock in? If not, you will have to by a new or used handle and maybe the switch for your model of truck! (and a shop manual)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1271779287, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1271779289
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
Ok there's a secret to getting that **** out. Not only do you have to push the little button on the bottom, but you have to twist the **** gently as you pull. Be sure that when you push the little button, the **** is all the way IN! Try pushing in the button and twisting to get it back in too - might work?!?
Hopefully the retainer inside the switch didn't bend or break. 55 headlight switches are ATROCIOUSLY expensive!
And yes, if you are sticking with 6 volt with OEM wiring it has to be a 55 switch.
55 was the first year that the main power was distributed off the headlight switch, and the only year the dash light dimmer for the instrument lights was set for 6 volts. If you don't care about dimming dash lights you can use a 56/57 switch or any generic off the shelf switch. They are much less expensive - but your **** won't match.
BUT since you are rewiring and now have a fuse panel, I'm assuming you are converting to 12 volt, and you can use any 12 volt (56+) headlight switch. On the Ford Switches, you can remove the **** and shaft (as you now know) and put one in that is correct for your 55 if that's important to you - be sure to get a **** with the correct shaft length.
Hopefully the retainer inside the switch didn't bend or break. 55 headlight switches are ATROCIOUSLY expensive!
And yes, if you are sticking with 6 volt with OEM wiring it has to be a 55 switch.
55 was the first year that the main power was distributed off the headlight switch, and the only year the dash light dimmer for the instrument lights was set for 6 volts. If you don't care about dimming dash lights you can use a 56/57 switch or any generic off the shelf switch. They are much less expensive - but your **** won't match.
BUT since you are rewiring and now have a fuse panel, I'm assuming you are converting to 12 volt, and you can use any 12 volt (56+) headlight switch. On the Ford Switches, you can remove the **** and shaft (as you now know) and put one in that is correct for your 55 if that's important to you - be sure to get a **** with the correct shaft length.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 813
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From: Auburn, Il
Well I've tried everything Ive read so far and I guess there is no getting it back in and keeping it in there. So any ford headlight switch will work I'm guessing/hoping?
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 813
Likes: 1
From: Auburn, Il
I have an
A
B
P and/or R
D1
D2
H
I
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
Just move the tabs to the right places the letter hook ups are correct. Your P and R are two seperate tabs P is for parking lights, R is for runniing lights The P is obvious, the R is the silver tab just to the right of the R running light. D1 is for dome lights D2 is for box lights on moving vans.
If that doesn't work let me know. It's hard to see the silver tab for the Running lights
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 813
Likes: 1
From: Auburn, Il
Hey Julie, in the picture it shows the the R and P are the same post. Its the one thats kind of hard to see, oh and im sorry for being a pain...lol I have to call rebel tomorrow to find out why there are 2 dimmer power wires (they really like me calling too)...lol
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
It's hard to see from the picture, but I thought thee was a silver tab and a gold tab next to the P and the R. The silver tab may stick straight out sideways instead of sticking up. It may be the nature of this switch to have things grouped a little differently and keep the parking lights on while the headlights are on - not sure. If that's the case, then each of those wires would get joined together in one connector and fit on the tab.
Are you sure there's no way to connect to that silver tab - like slide a connector onto it from the side, or between it and the side wall?
Can you take another picture with is SLIGHTLY tilted on its side - like 15 degrees or so so I can see the tabs from both top and side?
Or give me the part number and maybe I can go up to auto zone and look at one.
Thanks
Edit note:
Is this your switch, the Duralast? Because in this picture, there is a tab on this switch that appears to be missing from your new switch. I count 8 tabs on it and only 7 on yours. It seems that the tab in the dead center on yours is missing and that would be the P tab and the R is the one with the brass shunt going to the rheostat - which would make sense. I might be tempted to take it back up to auto zone and ask to see another one or ask them if they have one with 8 tabs on it.
Are you sure there's no way to connect to that silver tab - like slide a connector onto it from the side, or between it and the side wall?
Can you take another picture with is SLIGHTLY tilted on its side - like 15 degrees or so so I can see the tabs from both top and side?
Or give me the part number and maybe I can go up to auto zone and look at one.
Thanks
Edit note:
Is this your switch, the Duralast? Because in this picture, there is a tab on this switch that appears to be missing from your new switch. I count 8 tabs on it and only 7 on yours. It seems that the tab in the dead center on yours is missing and that would be the P tab and the R is the one with the brass shunt going to the rheostat - which would make sense. I might be tempted to take it back up to auto zone and ask to see another one or ask them if they have one with 8 tabs on it.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 813
Likes: 1
From: Auburn, Il
Can you take another picture with is SLIGHTLY tilted on its side - like 15 degrees or so so I can see the tabs from both top and side?
Or give me the part number and maybe I can go up to auto zone and look at one.
This is a wells switch part number sw166. I went to their website and looked and as far as I can tell that prong is not there but I will post a link to their website so maybe you can take a look to see if im missing something and thanks again for all the help so far...
WELLS Engine Management Systems - Instruction Sheets
Or give me the part number and maybe I can go up to auto zone and look at one.
This is a wells switch part number sw166. I went to their website and looked and as far as I can tell that prong is not there but I will post a link to their website so maybe you can take a look to see if im missing something and thanks again for all the help so far...
WELLS Engine Management Systems - Instruction Sheets