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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 07:08 PM
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Hey yall, my names Eric, I'm a on this forum. I recently traded my 08 Tacoma for a 10 Kia Forte due to my now 2month old. The Forte just hasn't done it for me, so I went out and bought a 1980 Ford F-250 Custom. It's got about 8" of lift, with 35x14.50x16 Super Swamper Boggers. Under the hood is a 400, with a holley 4barrel. I've also got a Solid Axle Conversion for the front end. The pickle im in, is the fact that the PO's used this truck for bogging, i like the mud, but i really want to make this my project truck. Due to the bogging, it has has ALOT of rust, Primarily floor pans, cab corners, bottom of bed, rear fenders, and bed corners. Also i want to completely redo the interior. I have been looking around (i.e. BroncoGraveyard.com, LMCTruck.com, JCWhitney) for parts and what not to fix this thing up, and have found some things, but not all. My question is; whats the best, easiest, and cheapest course of action for me? I dont have a TON of know how, but i have a little, and a lot of common sense. An answer to this question, and maybe some ball park pricing would go a long way for me. Thanks in advanced!
 
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 07:59 PM
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Welcome to FTE!

Alot of the aftermarket parts suppliers sell less than quality parts.This is especially true for sheetmetal.To get your money's worth,your best bet is to go out to a few junkyards and pull some stuff from rust free trucks.Best of luck on the project man.Be sure to post pics if ya can!
 
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 08:08 PM
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keep watching for a cheap 2x4truck in good shape, and switch everything over
 
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 08:40 PM
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Let us know your location. You never know when someone with the parts ya need is right around the corner.

I agree with with the Zilla, try to find OEM sheet metal. Rust free stuff from the south is your best bet, but shipping can kill the deal. I got lucky and was able to load doors, fenders, box and tailgate from a truck in Texas on a buddy's semi heading back to Illinois. I rebuilt an 85 15 years ago with sheet metal from LMC and it is paper thin. For floor pans and cab corners you don't usually have much choice but to buy patch pieces. Price all depends on how much you can do your self, how much you have to pay for and where you find your parts. I have a friend of a friend that does resto work on the side that would install all the body pieces, do all the body work, fix all the trim, prep and paint for $4000. I had a Pro tell me at least $9k. I'm hoping to do it all my self for under $2000 and that includes more work than what they would have done, interior, bumpers, tires, etc.

Good luck.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 10:09 PM
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depends on how bad the cab is, might not be worth it, you spend time and money to get it right, and 4 years later, do it all over again. been there, I just go find a really rust free, cheap truck now, and switch everything over.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 10:20 PM
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From: Lockport, IL
Originally Posted by dustybumpers
depends on how bad the cab is, might not be worth it, you spend time and money to get it right, and 4 years later, do it all over again. been there, I just go find a really rust free, cheap truck now, and switch everything over.
Again Location...

In my area your more likely to find a brand new 1986 still sitting on the Ford lot than you are to find a Rust Free complete truck for sale in the classifieds. My buddy was just over with his 2006 Dodge and the back fender already has rust bubbling through the paint.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 10:21 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by Chitownhillbilly
Again Location...

In my area your more likely to find a brand new 1986 still sitting on the Ford lot than you are to find a Rust Free complete truck for sale in the classifieds. My buddy was just over with his 2006 Dodge and the back fender already has rust bubbling through the paint.
yeah, md's the same way, but once in a while, good ones come through.
 
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